KTM 250 2 Stroke Vibration (Vibration Reduction solutions???)

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5/8/2018 3:31 PM

Hey guys first post here tongue

Just wondering if anyone has any solutions for vibration on a 250 2 stroke, love mine and have filled the bars with expanding foam and bought the pro taper grips that reduce vibration, they gave a good improvement as my hands cramp half due to vibration and half due to just not riding enough lately, but anyways, doing that improved it loads my hands didnt cramp up as quickly (armpump isnt an issue anymore its hand cramps haha).

I have heard of Nekken SFS tripple clamps for reducing vibration and theyre meant to be pretty good.

So anyways, what have you guys done to stop vibration through the bars and how much of an improvement was it?

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5/8/2018 3:41 PM

The bike shouldn’t have that much vibration due to the counter-balanced crank.

Get rubber mounted bar mounts before dropping money on triples.

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If you're not mixing gas, you're not haulin ass.

5/8/2018 3:54 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/8/2018 4:02 PM

Ah yes rubber mounted bar mounts, forgot about those, they seem quite expensive over here in the UK, from the good ones I’ve seen they’re still like nearly £200 lol which isn’t an issue was just wondering what other possibilities there are, and it’s not vibration at idle etc, I ride a lot of deep mulch/sand style tracks and when you’re constantly at high revs the vitbration cramps my hands up a bit, didn’t have this issue on the 125 or 250f but there’s a reason why they call 2 strokes bone shakers I guess ? anyways cheers man I’ll look into it

Edit****
It’s not so much of an issue on hardpack tracks, more deep tracks due to just not backing off as much and being higher up in the Rev range

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5/8/2018 4:49 PM

What yr ktm? We had a 14 and it was bad, ktm is the worse for vibration but the 17 is suppose to be almost vibration free. The best thing we did was buy ktms rubber mounted bar mounts. They cost like $200 but was the only thing that really helped

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5/8/2018 5:16 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/8/2018 5:16 PM

2011, got a load of trick bits on it but desperate for some bar mounts it seems! I saw these x trig mounts

[img]https://pierceimages.imgix.net/ProdImages/prod_72752/p72752.jpg?ver=1525820400&auto=format&lossless=false&q=50&sharp=0&h=509&fit=crop[/img]

Do these seem similar to what you have? Ill have to get a set if theyre that good! Love the 2 strokes to much to get 4t haha

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5/8/2018 5:23 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/8/2018 5:24 PM

My 09 250SX vibrated like crazy compared to my 13 YZ250 I have now. Not only did it wear you out faster, it lost hardware every ride. Rubber mounted bar mounts helped big time for rider comfort. I want to say I used the ones sold in the KTM option parts catalog, but can’t remember for sure.

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5/8/2018 5:26 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/8/2018 5:26 PM

barry_c wrote:

2011, got a load of trick bits on it but desperate for some bar mounts it seems! I saw these x trig mounts

[img] ...more

Yes those are very similar to what ktm sells and what we used. We always had to check our motor mounts also because they would come loose frequently. The vibration is a big reason my son switched to 4 stroke

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5/8/2018 5:41 PM

barry_c wrote:

2011, got a load of trick bits on it but desperate for some bar mounts it seems! I saw these x trig mounts

[img] ...more

ktm-5 wrote:

Yes those are very similar to what ktm sells and what we used. We always had to check our motor mounts also because they would ...more

Yeah, I would have to tighten the two large main engine mount bolts and the head mount bolts constantly. Had to have spares on hand even as they would turn up missing from time to time. Loctite wouldn’t help either.

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5/8/2018 5:57 PM

The PHDS bar mounts help.

Check swing arm bolt, engine mounts and engine to frame bolts. Use proper torque spec.

An extreme idea when you rebuild the engine, you can get a crank trued and balanced to the the piston. I believe crankworks is the place for that.

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5/9/2018 2:01 AM

First of all thanks guys!

I’ll go over the engine mounts again, I’m quite religious with checking the bike over before every ride but I’ll double check it all, hopefully those bar mounts will work too!

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5/9/2018 3:14 AM

Also, what are your suspension settings? Your suspension might be beating up your hands if it’s not set optimally.

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If you're not mixing gas, you're not haulin ass.

5/9/2018 3:17 AM
Edited Date/Time: 5/9/2018 3:18 AM

Had that set as soon as I got the bike to my weight etc so it’s defo not that! I can’t ride if my suspension isn’t right haha

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5/9/2018 5:11 AM
Edited Date/Time: 5/9/2018 5:12 AM

What year bike are we talking about?
Also what handlebars? These make a huge difference.

An easy mod is the PHDS system. They come with 'medium' hardness inserts, so you could even make them more supple with the softest inserts.

A little more hardcore would be having the crank balanced as CarlinoJoe mentioned.

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*Anyone but Reed or Webb Crew*

5/9/2018 5:15 AM
Edited Date/Time: 5/9/2018 5:18 AM

Which phds ones are the best? I see the xtrig ones and the genuine KTM ones? Many thanks!

It’s a 2011 I’ve got renathal twinwall bars but the clamps are standard so it’s essentially hard mounted as here’s no rubbers, I put some thin rubber strips in the bar mounts but they’re just not the same as buying the real thing

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5/9/2018 5:23 AM

Photo
Just adonised mounts as you can see, also grips are those nice padded pro taper ones now and they improved it
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5/9/2018 5:43 AM

I have to smile when I see your handlebar/clamp setup, because I had the exact same setup on the same bike and I when I changed to a Fatbar + PHDS setup I basically felt like punching myself in the face for not making the change earlier.

What you're running right now is basically the stiffest, most unforgiving bar+clamp combo possible. The twinwall is waaaayyyyy too stiff for a mere mortal, and the (Mxbonz?) clamp just makes it even worse. Changing to a Fatbar with PHDS clamps will make a world of difference. The KTM ones are the same as Xtrig, just different branding. Get whichever ones you can get the cheapest.

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*Anyone but Reed or Webb Crew*

5/9/2018 8:49 AM

Yeah, ditch the top clamp and go back to a rubber mounted 2 piece design as well as switch to fat bars without a cross bar. It will make a huge difference.

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5/9/2018 9:15 AM

You can remove the cross bar on your twin walls. Renthal says it is fine.

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Tomac and/or Anderson for 2020.....

5/9/2018 9:52 AM

BobPA wrote:

You can remove the cross bar on your twin walls. Renthal says it is fine.

Or even just cut it.

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2017 RMZ450
2005 YZ250-sold :,(
1998 YZ250
2005 KX250F

80% of the time it works every time
IG @2HRacing
Thanks to : Factory Effex, N2Dirt, Acerbis, DT1, Fasthouse, Matix, FMF, ASV, 100% & Mika Metals

5/9/2018 1:02 PM

Thanks again guys, ill just take the cross bar out, buy a fatbar pad and get those rubber bar mounts smile

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