19 YZ450F suspension setup suggestions

crowe176
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6614
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Location
Spring Lake, MI US
Like the title says, I'm looking for some advice on suggestions and which way to go with suspension.

First, I'm coming of a 4cs KTM 350, so this is naturally a HUGE upgrade in the fork department. This bike makes jumping fun again, if anyone can relate.

So, i'm 175lbs, 40+ vet, riding most my life. I don't race anymore, just practice twice a week on a good week. I ride tracks in west Michigan with soil very similar to Redbud. So, usually disc'd pretty deep, fairly deep ruts in the corners, not Redbud national deep, but almost the same, choppy soft braking bumps. I took a long break from riding, so I still have the skill to run a couple sprint laps, but my stamina isn't where it was, and I'm working on that..

So, what I noticed second ride, the YZ is unreal on big jumps. OJ'd one and came up short on another good sized jump and I couldn't believe how the KYB's soaked it up. Where my 4cs would have tested the bones in my wrist, the YZ was sooooo good. Made the switch from WP to KYB worth the money right then.]

question's revolve around braking bumps and rutted corners.

1. It seems a little harsh coming into corners. It doesn't bounce around, it's very stable, but I'm wondering if which way I should go with the clickers if I want to try to improve that. Would going faster on fork rebound be a good place to start? Or\also, is the bike too fresh, and should I get some decent break in time before I start turning clickers? Or should I just go faster through the bumps lol?

2. It feels like it wants to stand up at the end of rutted corners. I'm good dropping in, and making the turn, but it feels like it wants to stand up, or even pop out of the rut toward the end.

Only thing I've done was put my sag to 105, which is what i've read online is the magic number
I also raised my forks to 7mm from stock 5mm.
Also, tire pressure was at 13.5psi. MX3S's (I'm think going to try 13psi next ride)

Sorry if these are noob questions, but I wanted to run this past you guys and see if I can come up with a good setting without having to spend money on a revalve as I can't imagine a revalve making this thing any better than it is.


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chump6784
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AU
6/5/2019 3:36am
I don't know about the 450 specifically but I'm on my second yz 250 and always go in on the rebound. I think I'm running around 7 out on the forks and 5 out on the shock. When i got my last yz revalved the tuner said the yz's rebound is way too quick and worked mostly on that.
m21racing
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7/19/2016
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Reno, NV US
6/5/2019 7:38am
You could run 100mm sag , run forks at 10c 14r and shock 12c, 12r, 1.5 hc to start. We've been running forks almost to cap at top tree as well. These are valved specs, but may help you.
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Hudd_421
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TX US
6/5/2019 7:43am
I absolutely love my 19's suspension. No matter what I ride, the stock valving is always plush and works great for me. I'm 170 A rider, and stock spring rates seem to fit me just perfect. The biggest thing for me was sag...107-109 has been a game changer for me. Forks felt harsh, bike wouldn't stay in long ruts at 103, set to 109 to test and WOW!

Since you ride deep Redbud, I'd stay away from going too soft on the clickers, you'll want it to hold up and going softer may make it seem harsher. Speed up your rebound (out)

In regards to the end of ruts, I'd focus on body position. Getting your head over the bars as you accelerate keeps the bike driving forward and staying in the rut. I personally always look at my technique and positioning before I ever blame the bike.
2
Paw Paw 271
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Benton, LA US
6/5/2019 8:08am
Those bike are known to pull up out of the ruts when throttle is applied. You need tp get your body weight much further forward.

Paw Paw
1

The Shop

Hudd_421
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TX US
6/5/2019 8:36am
Those bike are known to pull up out of the ruts when throttle is applied. You need tp get your body weight much further forward. Paw...
Those bike are known to pull up out of the ruts when throttle is applied. You need tp get your body weight much further forward.

Paw Paw
Head forward means bike wants to stay upright. Upright = center knobbies digging in. More traction = more forward momentum to get you through the rut!
crowe176
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Location
Spring Lake, MI US
6/5/2019 8:49am
You guys are probably correct that it’s a technique issue. The only thing I planned to focus on was trying to remember to take all inside lines on the track. Coming off a 350, I got pretty comfy “railing” outside most turns. I caught myself quite a few times carrying more speed to take outside and then diving to inside later than I should, so body position im sure suffered a lot due to that.

I’ll play with the sag first this weekend and see if I can’t get some help from running some more like you said Hudd. I’ll report back. Thank you guys
Hudd_421
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TX US
6/5/2019 9:19am
Body positioning is one of those things I always work on every time I ride. I think with 105 sag, clickers where you want them to be and 5mil fork height, you should have a very solid base. The key to going fast or getting through ruts smooth is all technique.
swtwtwtw
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Apple Valley, CA US
6/6/2019 8:26am
Swap stock engine hangers for softer ones.
1
adam8781
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670
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12/22/2015
Location
CA
6/23/2019 9:31pm
set sag 108, slower rebound on forks, maybe back the compression off 2 clicks, take 5-10cc oil out of each fork leg, play with fork height in triple clamps 5-10mm. i think the bike is sprung a touch heavy for you and is stopping the front from settling for best cornering. depending how you like the rear to feel a combo of faster rebound or slower compresion can keep the rear higher so front has more bite.
crowe176
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6614
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Location
Spring Lake, MI US
5/17/2020 4:10am Edited Date/Time 5/17/2020 4:12am
I figured I’d update this old thread, since I’m awake. SO, when I originally moved my forks up in the clamps, I must have had a torque wrench or brain fart problem because the torque on the triple clamps were way the hell off durrr.

Once I re-torqued my clamps to the proper setting, it was an entirely

different handling bike. I’m loving how this thing corners now. Due to the track closure thing going on with the covid, I’ve spent the last month only riding turn tracks and this thing rails so good, I think I’m at least an inch shorter.

As some of you know, holy shit, the stock valving on this 19 is unreal. I honestly don’t know what I’d say to the suspension guy asked me what it was doing wrong. This thing feels like you could soak up a drop from a 2 story building.

This is the first bike I’m having a hard time trying to find something I’d like to change.

Thanks for tips guys. I appreciate the help!
adam8781
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CA
5/17/2020 6:18pm
crowe176 wrote:
I figured I’d update this old thread, since I’m awake. SO, when I originally moved my forks up in the clamps, I must have had a...
I figured I’d update this old thread, since I’m awake. SO, when I originally moved my forks up in the clamps, I must have had a torque wrench or brain fart problem because the torque on the triple clamps were way the hell off durrr.

Once I re-torqued my clamps to the proper setting, it was an entirely

different handling bike. I’m loving how this thing corners now. Due to the track closure thing going on with the covid, I’ve spent the last month only riding turn tracks and this thing rails so good, I think I’m at least an inch shorter.

As some of you know, holy shit, the stock valving on this 19 is unreal. I honestly don’t know what I’d say to the suspension guy asked me what it was doing wrong. This thing feels like you could soak up a drop from a 2 story building.

This is the first bike I’m having a hard time trying to find something I’d like to change.

Thanks for tips guys. I appreciate the help!
id also suggest softer springs, those bikes are sprung for 200lb riders, it will make you ride high in the stroke and cornering will suffer badly

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