Track Prep! Part 1: Cutting Depth

I would like some opinions on track prep. I want to ask a series of questions about tracks in general, but thought I would start here. Let me start by saying my track was built as a training track for my son, not a race track. He along with a few friends on the same level that ride, a couple of LL vet class guys, and then a I have an A rider that rides and helps me keep up the track.

I have heard it all, tracks not cut deep enough or the tracks cut too deep.

I am using a field cultivator with rolling baskets, Unverferth Perfecta 2

I generally cut ours as deep as possible, I can get from 4-8 inches deep depending on the area of the track. When very dry we can have a foot of powder on the track in spots.

At this depth ruts are king. With just a few bikes on the track we are dragging pegs in the corners in a moto! It gets rough pretty quick, braking bumps form, then the acceleration bumps come. Gets rough pretty quick. I know this is great training for the big races!

My son is still a C class rider so getting his speed up is important to me as well as rut riding. In most local races he only has 5 lap sprints on perfectly groomed tracks. Totally different than where we train. I feel like I may be missing something in his training by cutting the track so deep and him not developing the speed that comes on a harder packed track. I have been told by those that should know that the speed will come. If he can ride in this rough stuff he will just get better on the groomed stuff!

I would like to hear what depths you track operators cut.

I would like riders opinions on the track depth.

Trying to soak in as much info as possible!


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The Rock
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9/8/2016 6:09am
Thanks for starting this thread. I have a buddy in Austria who will be following this thread closely. They're trying to figure out how to best prep the pavement type soil at their local practice track.

c0ncEpT
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9/8/2016 6:29am
IMO your doing him a favor. Anyone can twist grip when its perfectly smooth. Its the guys that only ride when conditions are smooth that are totally lost when they have to race a rough/rutted track.
PRM31
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Fantasy
9/8/2016 6:31am Edited Date/Time 9/8/2016 6:32am
I've watched the prep at a semi-local track evolve over the years to what I feel is now a very good method. I can't tell you the depth, but it is broken up and not a bunch of large dirt clods. While some ruts will form, it's not too bad. Contact Chad here:
http://www.tomahawkmx.com/

Their facebook page has more current pictures.

Since getting back into riding I've been really impressed with what he does.

As to my opinion, a little loose soil is nice, enough to form berms and get rough, but absolutely not to the point of having to ride ruts for any length of time. For training, getting used to ruts would be valuable though.
9/8/2016 6:41am
43 yr old vet rider here...have raced about 16-18 different tracks.
speed..a few years back I was mid C class or mid-front 40+ vet class.

I never liked rock hard tracks, but I also never liked tracks cut so deep the pegs drag in corners or straightaway ruts.

The absolute best tracks for racing imo are ones with the corners cut 5-8" and the straights a little less..ruts in corners are good as long as they're not peg dragging deep...but the last thing I wanna do is go thru a 50' long rut wide open in 3rd down a straightaway.There were times I've done that and actually did ok in em (weight back..front end light and don't let off) but to a novice trying to learn to go faster... its a distraction cuz without that 50' rut I'd be hitting that straight considerably faster..

Basiclly...corners cut semi-deep
straights...a little less but still cut.

The Shop

9/8/2016 6:45am
Unfortunately no matter what You do someone will hate it and tell you how you should of done it better.
JustMX
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9/8/2016 8:49am
Pretty familiar with the perfectas.

Not sure how you can plow hard ground that deep with it unless you break it up some first with something else.

Otherwise you will spend a lot of time and money replacing those spring shanks.

They are a great piece for finish grooming because the faster you go, the better they seem to work.

The exception is if it is wet. Then you will spend a lot of time cleaning out the rear rollers.

I am sure you have found some of this out but wanted to point it out to anybody else considering one.

The amount of moisture in the ground makes about as much difference as what you work it with.

Adding organic material (sawdust, leaves, rice hulls, etc.) helps.

I prefer sand myself if you have a reasonable way to get it.
Tracktor
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9/8/2016 8:55am
For my backyard track we mix it up. We have a couple sections we rip as deep as possible to develop ruts and some places we leave smoother. Strangely enough if you walked my track the dirt looks like it would rut up easily but we actually struggle getting good ruts to form.
Overall it depends on your soil type. There is no one way to do it. Just like certain obstacles/sections won't work as well with certain types of dirt..............
9/8/2016 1:46pm
I have a few different types of soil mixed in. Had a bunch of sand brought in originally, plenty of blackish "goldsboro " topsoil, then lots of clay from the pond we dug. Also have a lot of soft silty type from drainage clean outs. I try to till it with my PTO Tiller about once a month to keep it all mixed up well.

I have several big clay piles 20ft high. Over the winter we intend to cover all the jumps with 6-12 inches of clay to help prevent face erosion I am facing now. During hard rains the jumps faces wash out bad as they were built out of the more sandy dirt on the farm!

9/8/2016 1:51pm
JustMX wrote:
Pretty familiar with the perfectas. Not sure how you can plow hard ground that deep with it unless you break it up some first with something...
Pretty familiar with the perfectas.

Not sure how you can plow hard ground that deep with it unless you break it up some first with something else.

Otherwise you will spend a lot of time and money replacing those spring shanks.

They are a great piece for finish grooming because the faster you go, the better they seem to work.

The exception is if it is wet. Then you will spend a lot of time cleaning out the rear rollers.

I am sure you have found some of this out but wanted to point it out to anybody else considering one.

The amount of moisture in the ground makes about as much difference as what you work it with.

Adding organic material (sawdust, leaves, rice hulls, etc.) helps.

I prefer sand myself if you have a reasonable way to get it.
We added several inches of dirt all the way around the track, that is probably one of the reasons I get so deep!

I also have been using the PTO tiller for years and it will go deep and make it pure powder. It just packs so hard after a rain I don't like using as much. Also puts way more stress on the tractor!

You are also very right about the mud on the rollers, that is a bitch lol!
Talan_Hansen
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Iron Mountain, MI, USA
9/8/2016 2:38pm
From what I've learned, riding smooth tracks doesn't get you far. All I rode growing up was smooth tracks, no ruts. I would never ride outdoors good. My coach leaves the tracks rough and un touched. The get really nasty and since I've been riding those tracks, and trying to qualify for outdoor nationals in Canada. I can say that riding a deep rutted and rough track has helped me out a lot with racing stadium and local outdoors races. Like said above, anyone can ride smooth. Speed will come as long as you practice good form.
Falcon
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9/8/2016 2:39pm
Rip it deep on half the track, and never prep the other half. That way your son will have it all: Smooth in the morning, ruts in the afternoon, and one section that will always be greasy, slippery hard pack with square-edges and holes.

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