KTM 50SX's

Titan1
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Titan1
What do I need to know about these bikes? Any bad years? Are there even any updates to these bikes from one model year to the next? I know nothing about mini bikes...

I'm looking at a 2011, new top end 3 hours ago some aftermarket mods for $1450...very very clean. And a 2017 with 6 total hours, as clean as you'd expect it to be and all stock for $3100.

My 8 year old is coming off a crf50...which he rides the wheels off...and he's finally able to touch the ground on the KTM (he's very small for his age) and we're both excited for this next bike.

Thanks for any feedback.
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andcone
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andcone 5/29/2019 9:29am
5/29/2019 9:29am
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference.
Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the biggest maintenance issues.
ktmtalk.com has a KTM 50 section. That will be your best friend.
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dedi684
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dedi684 5/29/2019 9:35am
5/29/2019 9:35am
I cant get rid of my brand new 2018 tc 50 for 3k. Must be ny. Lol
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mikec265
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mikec265 5/29/2019 9:36am
5/29/2019 9:36am
I think around 2013 or 2014 they got a better more reliable clutch.
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Titan1
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Titan1 5/29/2019 9:41am
5/29/2019 9:41am
andcone wrote:
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference. Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the...
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference.
Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the biggest maintenance issues.
ktmtalk.com has a KTM 50 section. That will be your best friend.
Are the air forks an upgrade?

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kunk
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kunk 5/29/2019 9:50am
5/29/2019 9:50am
Buy a 65. Lower the bike and install a Rekluse. I wouldn’t mess with a fast 50 unless you are racing. If you are racing he will be too old for the bike when he turns 9.
9
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Karlsrad
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Karlsrad 5/29/2019 9:50am
5/29/2019 9:50am Edited Date/Time 5/29/2019 10:01am
Edit: Get the 2017, much better clutch design. Pre 2013 were complete nitemares unless you get an aftermarket clutch. Or get a 65 and lower it for his size. You can lower them and tune them down the power until he is comfortable on it. And the sooner he gets used to a clutch, the better. He will be done with that 50 by 9. I just got my 9 year old a YZ65 this year, awesome bike! I was so happy the day I got rid of our 2013 KTM 50....

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andcone
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andcone 5/29/2019 9:58am
5/29/2019 9:58am
andcone wrote:
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference. Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the...
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference.
Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the biggest maintenance issues.
ktmtalk.com has a KTM 50 section. That will be your best friend.
Titan1 wrote:
Are the air forks an upgrade?
Lighter bike. Possibly less maintenance. I have a 2016 SXS for my kids so I never got to experience them. Kids seem to be less sensitive to suspension. If your kid is racing, get the IRP clutch. Will save you time and money in the long run.
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mikec265
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mikec265 5/29/2019 10:04am
5/29/2019 10:04am
kunk wrote:
Buy a 65. Lower the bike and install a Rekluse. I wouldn’t mess with a fast 50 unless you are racing. If you are racing he...
Buy a 65. Lower the bike and install a Rekluse. I wouldn’t mess with a fast 50 unless you are racing. If you are racing he will be too old for the bike when he turns 9.
I can't argue with that. I'll probably buy a fast KTM electric mini when they become available, but I've got 2 more kids to hand it down to. My 5 year old isn't very confident turning his lowered kx65, but when he went back to a Honda 50 his corner speed was way faster.
Currently he's on a Chinese 110 and the KX65. Just waiting for the (hopefully) low maintenance electric KTM to come out.
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piscokid
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piscokid 5/29/2019 10:07am
5/29/2019 10:07am
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons of wear. The newer models are well worth the money to avoid these clutches. . We raced them and of course the year we moved to the 65's is the year they changed the clutch design!
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Titan1
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Titan1 5/29/2019 10:14am
5/29/2019 10:14am
piscokid wrote:
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons...
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons of wear. The newer models are well worth the money to avoid these clutches. . We raced them and of course the year we moved to the 65's is the year they changed the clutch design!
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either.

Someone mentioned the IRP clutch...does that solve the problems?
Titan1
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Titan1 5/29/2019 10:17am
5/29/2019 10:17am
kunk wrote:
Buy a 65. Lower the bike and install a Rekluse. I wouldn’t mess with a fast 50 unless you are racing. If you are racing he...
Buy a 65. Lower the bike and install a Rekluse. I wouldn’t mess with a fast 50 unless you are racing. If you are racing he will be too old for the bike when he turns 9.
We are racing, but off road. No age restriction on bike size in my local series. So he'll be able to ride a 50 until he grows out of it. probably a year or two, since he can barely touch the ground on it now.
Karlsrad
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Karlsrad 5/29/2019 10:35am
5/29/2019 10:35am Edited Date/Time 5/29/2019 10:36am
piscokid wrote:
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons...
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons of wear. The newer models are well worth the money to avoid these clutches. . We raced them and of course the year we moved to the 65's is the year they changed the clutch design!
Titan1 wrote:
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either...
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either.

Someone mentioned the IRP clutch...does that solve the problems?
Yes, if your getting a 50 and racing offroad, get the IRC http://www.inturace.com/ or the dominator clutch with either 50 you get, any year. Trust me, it will save you money, garage time,etc. And KTM stock parts are $$$$ You guys can just ride, and not worry about the stock clutch... Those aftermarket clutches are a much better design. But your need to change the oil often, every other ride at least.
agn5009
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agn5009 5/29/2019 10:49am
5/29/2019 10:49am
piscokid wrote:
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons...
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons of wear. The newer models are well worth the money to avoid these clutches. . We raced them and of course the year we moved to the 65's is the year they changed the clutch design!
Titan1 wrote:
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either...
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either.

Someone mentioned the IRP clutch...does that solve the problems?
Karlsrad wrote:
Yes, if your getting a 50 and racing offroad, get the IRC http://www.inturace.com/ or the dominator clutch with either 50 you get, any year. Trust me...
Yes, if your getting a 50 and racing offroad, get the IRC http://www.inturace.com/ or the dominator clutch with either 50 you get, any year. Trust me, it will save you money, garage time,etc. And KTM stock parts are $$$$ You guys can just ride, and not worry about the stock clutch... Those aftermarket clutches are a much better design. But your need to change the oil often, every other ride at least.
Them ain’t cheap. That’s another $600 he’ll have into just the clutch. At that point he might as well spend another grand and get the newer bike with a better clutch.
jbutah3000
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jbutah3000 5/29/2019 10:52am
5/29/2019 10:52am
Definitely check out KTMtalk.com. I change the clutch oil every ride and would recommend changing the air filter every ride as well. 2014 or newer is the way to go.
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Karlsrad
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Karlsrad 5/29/2019 11:02am
5/29/2019 11:02am Edited Date/Time 5/29/2019 11:03am
Titan1 wrote:
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either...
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either.

Someone mentioned the IRP clutch...does that solve the problems?
Karlsrad wrote:
Yes, if your getting a 50 and racing offroad, get the IRC http://www.inturace.com/ or the dominator clutch with either 50 you get, any year. Trust me...
Yes, if your getting a 50 and racing offroad, get the IRC http://www.inturace.com/ or the dominator clutch with either 50 you get, any year. Trust me, it will save you money, garage time,etc. And KTM stock parts are $$$$ You guys can just ride, and not worry about the stock clutch... Those aftermarket clutches are a much better design. But your need to change the oil often, every other ride at least.
agn5009 wrote:
Them ain’t cheap. That’s another $600 he’ll have into just the clutch. At that point he might as well spend another grand and get the newer...
Them ain’t cheap. That’s another $600 he’ll have into just the clutch. At that point he might as well spend another grand and get the newer bike with a better clutch.
I've owned a 2010 and 2013, stock clutch designs are junk for both bikes (but the 2013 is marginally better then the 2010, easier to adjust on the fly. The 2017 is the same clutch as the 2013) Stock KTM parts are $$$, you have to change plates parts of the clutch often, it adds up very quickly.
I put a IRC clutch in our 2013 the bike and never had to touch it for 1 year, just change the oil. Wish I would of done that when I first got the bike. Would of saved me a ton of $$$, time, race results, etc....
The OP son is racing offroad, there is a ton of clutch slipping in offroad on these bikes.... The stock clutch will overheat quickly this way. These bikes are meant to be ridden wide open on the track with the clutch locked up, or stock clutches will burn up quick. Everytime that happens its around $100-$125 to replace stock KTM clutch plates. With these bikes if you are racing, you can pay now, or pay more overtime slowly....
Tracktor
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Tracktor 5/30/2019 9:53am
5/30/2019 9:53am
andcone wrote:
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference. Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the...
2017 will have the air forks. That's the big difference.
Change the clutch oil about every 5 hours. Use Maxima MTL 75. Clutch is usually the biggest maintenance issues.
ktmtalk.com has a KTM 50 section. That will be your best friend.
Titan1 wrote:
Are the air forks an upgrade?
I've been out of 50's for awhile but have experience with the same design on 65's. No the air forks on those bikes are the biggest pieces of crap made fork wise. The 85 - up design is good but the 50/65 forks are crap. This is coming from an aggressive MX viewpoint. Unreliable as hell and not very tuneable.......Need spring cartridges or just go with older ones like we did.............Other than that the 17 is a overall better bike.
Having done 50's on a relative budget buy the best maintained bikes you can find if used. Then over maintain them looking to prevent issues if you get behind on stuff this time will be a nightmare. We rarely had issues and always ran used bikes but I was always checking them over with a fine tooth comb...........
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piscokid
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piscokid 5/30/2019 10:11am
5/30/2019 10:11am
piscokid wrote:
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons...
ktmtalk.com is a wealth of knowledge. I agree that the 2011-2013 is a nightmare clutch wise. They were driven off the crank and susceptible to tons of wear. The newer models are well worth the money to avoid these clutches. . We raced them and of course the year we moved to the 65's is the year they changed the clutch design!
Titan1 wrote:
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either...
Any fixes for the Clutch issues? Working this thing on a budget...but I don't want to nickle and dime myself trying to keep it running either.

Someone mentioned the IRP clutch...does that solve the problems?
No fixes, They just generate a TON of heat. Constant oil changes (I changed after every ride) and I kept a bunch of washers and shoes on hand. DO NOT BUY they cheapo Chinese replacement shoes online or ebay. You will end up spending a ton of money buying a drum and other parts as well that those cheap shoes ruin. Never had failure so to speak, one has to be super vigilant about maintenance and making sure the shoes are in spec. It's a ton of work. Take it from the advice on here and ktmtalk. Buy a newer one. We had 2 and I was never more glad about moving away from a bike in my life.
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4DAIVIPAI2K5
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4DAIVIPAI2K5 5/30/2019 10:52am
5/30/2019 10:52am
Buy the newest one you can afford. I speak to other 50 parents who bought older bikes and they end up spending more then they would on a newer bike and still have a bike that will resale for 1300 bucks.

I'm a bit of a fan boy after my headache with out brand new KTM, and have no issues with all the cobras we have had. Find a cobra and go racing.
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