2007 rm125 done? Crashed

Arln.rm125
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131
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/4/2021 11:39pm Edited Date/Time 7/24/2022 9:40am
Hey guys figured I'd post up a thread on rebuilding my 07' rm125, just recently got the bike and thought it had a motor failure but ended up being something bouncing around off the flywheel. Oh well, good excuse to build it lol. Will preface this by saying I'm 15 years old and am learning along the way. This is my first bike, used to ride quads but that was 6+ years ago. Only had 4 rides on it before tearing into it, was just riding flat ground at my family's land getting used to it all. The bike ripped, I'm sure that's partially cause I weigh 112 pounds so the bike barley even notices me.
Here's what she looked like before ripping into it. Please ignore the mess, we are about to start moving so its quite messy around. The bike is entirely labeled though, so no worries there about mess.
Here's the stage the bike is currently at, frame is getting re powder coated.
biggest issue so far has been this kick starter, got the bolt off but it will not slide off under any amount of pressure. luckily got off the inner clutch cover without removing the kick starter. Though I'm not too sure how it'll go back on without removing the kick starter It moves in and out a very small amount but will not come off. Any tips or ideas would be greatly apricated.

Here's what the fly wheel looked like after the metal object was in there for a bit, should be runnable? Any insight from a more knowledgeable person would be greatly apricated here. Not quite sure what the metal thing even was, looked like a mangled piece of sheet metal. checked many times and nothing was missing in the ignition area. The weirdest part is it didn't cause any issues till 19 hours and a year and a half after the motor was built. Previous owner had the motor rebuilt in 2019. After tearing into it, looks to be around that hour mark. The head had some detonation damage and I am done dealing with the straight ass pump gas that south FL has to offer, so the motor got sent out to Tom Morgan to get ported, along with getting the head recut for vp c12, and some carb work. The bottom end feels in good condition, so my dad wants to leave it together. We already have a new balanced crank along with all seals and bearings to do the bottom end, but my dad doesn't wanna go though the hassle of a motor build. I'm torn on tearing into it or not, as it feels healthy but we already have everything. Any opinions here would be apricated
Here's what the stator looked like after dealing with that foreign object bouncing around inside. It was covered in metal shavings but after a ton of electro cleaner it looks to be in fine shape.

The wiring harness is in rough shape and has clearly been re wrapped at some point by someone who doesn't understand how heat shrink works and loves electrical tape. So my dad will be helping me re heat shrink the entire wiring harness while its out. Have some graphics that I designed in motocal so far but am not 100% sure on the exact design. I will say its keeping the 2012 gen rmz front end, and the rad shrouds are inspired by the TP look. Will also be getting a full wheelset from fasterUSA as my current wheels have quite a few seized spokes. The current wheels will be rebuilt at a later date as spares. Thinking about yellow hoops with the "burnt magnesium" hub color. For right now the suspension is being left how it is, it was valued by the previous owner for a 160 pound rider. So its definitely stiff for me but remembering when I rode friends bikes years ago. I much preferred super stiff suspension. We'll see if I keep thinking that way after casing a few jumps, my wrists may want softer suspension lol.
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Arln.rm125
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131
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/4/2021 11:49pm
Arln.rm125 wrote:
Hey guys figured I'd post up a thread on rebuilding my 07' rm125, just recently got the bike and thought it had a motor failure but...
Hey guys figured I'd post up a thread on rebuilding my 07' rm125, just recently got the bike and thought it had a motor failure but ended up being something bouncing around off the flywheel. Oh well, good excuse to build it lol. Will preface this by saying I'm 15 years old and am learning along the way. This is my first bike, used to ride quads but that was 6+ years ago. Only had 4 rides on it before tearing into it, was just riding flat ground at my family's land getting used to it all. The bike ripped, I'm sure that's partially cause I weigh 112 pounds so the bike barley even notices me.
Here's what she looked like before ripping into it. Please ignore the mess, we are about to start moving so its quite messy around. The bike is entirely labeled though, so no worries there about mess.
Here's the stage the bike is currently at, frame is getting re powder coated.
biggest issue so far has been this kick starter, got the bolt off but it will not slide off under any amount of pressure. luckily got off the inner clutch cover without removing the kick starter. Though I'm not too sure how it'll go back on without removing the kick starter It moves in and out a very small amount but will not come off. Any tips or ideas would be greatly apricated.

Here's what the fly wheel looked like after the metal object was in there for a bit, should be runnable? Any insight from a more knowledgeable person would be greatly apricated here. Not quite sure what the metal thing even was, looked like a mangled piece of sheet metal. checked many times and nothing was missing in the ignition area. The weirdest part is it didn't cause any issues till 19 hours and a year and a half after the motor was built. Previous owner had the motor rebuilt in 2019. After tearing into it, looks to be around that hour mark. The head had some detonation damage and I am done dealing with the straight ass pump gas that south FL has to offer, so the motor got sent out to Tom Morgan to get ported, along with getting the head recut for vp c12, and some carb work. The bottom end feels in good condition, so my dad wants to leave it together. We already have a new balanced crank along with all seals and bearings to do the bottom end, but my dad doesn't wanna go though the hassle of a motor build. I'm torn on tearing into it or not, as it feels healthy but we already have everything. Any opinions here would be apricated
Here's what the stator looked like after dealing with that foreign object bouncing around inside. It was covered in metal shavings but after a ton of electro cleaner it looks to be in fine shape.

The wiring harness is in rough shape and has clearly been re wrapped at some point by someone who doesn't understand how heat shrink works and loves electrical tape. So my dad will be helping me re heat shrink the entire wiring harness while its out. Have some graphics that I designed in motocal so far but am not 100% sure on the exact design. I will say its keeping the 2012 gen rmz front end, and the rad shrouds are inspired by the TP look. Will also be getting a full wheelset from fasterUSA as my current wheels have quite a few seized spokes. The current wheels will be rebuilt at a later date as spares. Thinking about yellow hoops with the "burnt magnesium" hub color. For right now the suspension is being left how it is, it was valued by the previous owner for a 160 pound rider. So its definitely stiff for me but remembering when I rode friends bikes years ago. I much preferred super stiff suspension. We'll see if I keep thinking that way after casing a few jumps, my wrists may want softer suspension lol.

For what its worth here's what was bouncing around in the fly wheel/ignition area. Looks like the bent sheet metal piece that holds on the clutch cable. Checked everything 20X comparing parts to the parts diagram for OEM parts and nothing was missing in there. So it was left in there from the motor build. Stupid thing almost made me crash, I found out it was there when the bike acted like I dumped the clutch while trying to turn around. I was partial throttle slipping the clutch while turning around and suddenly it jumped forward. I was quite unprepared and almost came off, luckily it stalled before that happened. I had thought a crank bearing failed due to the sound it made. So did all my friends, though I was very confused by why it did the weird thing with the clutch
Fireblade2k
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10/31/2019
Location
Saint Petersburg, FL US
11/5/2021 7:29am
Lots of penetrating fluid and a two jaw puller is what I would try if it absolutely had to come off. Also, I would leave the bottom end in it too for now since there are no signs of wear.
3
djp48
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Location
Ludington, MI US
11/5/2021 5:03pm
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and full of grime.
If the bike ran well I wouldn't worry to much about the flywheel and stator.
You should think seriously about putting some money into the suspension. You will be much more confident with a set up for your weight and abilities.
1
Arln.rm125
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131
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/5/2021 5:07pm
Lots of penetrating fluid and a two jaw puller is what I would try if it absolutely had to come off. Also, I would leave the...
Lots of penetrating fluid and a two jaw puller is what I would try if it absolutely had to come off. Also, I would leave the bottom end in it too for now since there are no signs of wear.
Yeah I already blasted it with pb blaster. Didnt do anything. I agree at this point to leave together the bottom end. Thanks

The Shop

Arln.rm125
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/5/2021 5:13pm
djp48 wrote:
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and...
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and full of grime.
If the bike ran well I wouldn't worry to much about the flywheel and stator.
You should think seriously about putting some money into the suspension. You will be much more confident with a set up for your weight and abilities.
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts like there’s a set screw holding it on the shaft. Not sure. The bike had power loss at the very end and was acting VERY rich even though it was jetted in. I think it was weak spark cause of all the metal shavings on the stator. I think it’ll be fine at this point. Trust me I want to toss some money into the suspension and get it revalved but this bike has already soaked up so much money I don’t have another 800-1000 dollars for that. It will get done eventually, but I don’t have the ability to do it for now. That plus my dad wants me to get used to it how it is and then get suspension done so that I can understand the difference. And understand what changes do what. Instead of doing it all at the same time. Appreciate the response
djp48
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Ludington, MI US
11/5/2021 5:28pm
Can you get a puller on it as previously mentioned? They make pullers for battery terminals which are a pretty compact design but also a little delicate. You may be able to press it out, just be careful to not crack/ damage the case. Little risky. Maybe the splines are rolled from 14 years of kicking? Is the blaster coming from the splines nasty looking?
1
Arln.rm125
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/5/2021 5:53pm
djp48 wrote:
Can you get a puller on it as previously mentioned? They make pullers for battery terminals which are a pretty compact design but also a little...
Can you get a puller on it as previously mentioned? They make pullers for battery terminals which are a pretty compact design but also a little delicate. You may be able to press it out, just be careful to not crack/ damage the case. Little risky. Maybe the splines are rolled from 14 years of kicking? Is the blaster coming from the splines nasty looking?
The PB blaster goes though the splines and is still the yellowish clear that its meant to be. I think its either twisted splines or someone put a set screw in place? No idea why that would be done, I know OEM doesn't have a set screw so my vote is twisted splines. Will try to get a puller on it tomorrow, haven't tried it yet. My dad has a 50T press at work that he used to get out the linkage bearings as they were rusted like crazy. I'd be worried a press would damage either the inner clutch cover or the kick starter gear though
Arln.rm125
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/6/2021 5:32pm
Tried to get the puller on it and couldn't. Any more ideas would be great, as I'm not sure what to do to get this thing off now
djp48
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Ludington, MI US
11/6/2021 5:59pm
Can you pull the snap rings from the backside and remove the cog and gears and slide the shaft through the front of the case with the kick pedal still attached?
1
djp48
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Ludington, MI US
11/6/2021 6:06pm
I think you would be fine with a press as long as the case was supported well and you are very careful. I don't think it will take much since the pedal is aluminum. Use some heat first. Aluminum grows at about twice the rate of steel. Get in fast with the heat to limit the time it has to transfer into the steel. The case is pretty strong but it is not going to handle any twisting. Make sure you can get a good feel for how much pressure your applying. I probably wouldn't use a press with an electric motor unless you have someone familiar and comfortable with it.
djp48
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11/6/2021 6:11pm Edited Date/Time 11/7/2021 9:45am
Worst case scenario you could cut it off? Check parts availability before you start sacrificing parts though. Some stuff is hard to find. I've heard the rm's especially.
adam8781
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CA
11/6/2021 7:48pm
gotta love an rm!

for the flywheel, the pickup is what matters. show a pic of the pickup on the flywheel
1
Arln.rm125
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11/6/2021 8:33pm
djp48 wrote:
Can you pull the snap rings from the backside and remove the cog and gears and slide the shaft through the front of the case with...
Can you pull the snap rings from the backside and remove the cog and gears and slide the shaft through the front of the case with the kick pedal still attached?
No sadly not, the kick starter itself has to come off. As you can see the gear rides on the inside of the shaft. Has to come out the correct way


the kick starter pivot is steel, and the shaft is also steel. So its steel on steel contact, I'd be super worried trying to press it out. May just leave it instead. Cutting it off would be sketchy, luckily its a 2007 so still a lot of new OEM parts are available. Because of that I am stock piling OEM parts, as its going to be my main seat time bike and get a few hundred hours a year. It would be super expensive to cut off and replace, would rather take it to a machine shop and see if they have any ideas.
Arln.rm125
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11/6/2021 8:40pm
adam8781 wrote:
gotta love an rm!

for the flywheel, the pickup is what matters. show a pic of the pickup on the flywheel
Yes sir, I love this thing. Def a fun first bike after dealing with quads, super twitchy and playful. With more then enough power, and is really a smooth shifter if you time everything right. only downside is this is going to be my main seat time bike and see a shitload of hours. So I have been looking for spare trans parts. I'm moving within riding distance of a huge track. Plus 10 acres of my own, will be constantly riding. And I'm sure constantly breaking transmission parts, expecting to see 200+ hours a year. You are very correct, the pickup looks fine. Even the outside of the fw looks rough but is quite smooth to the touch. I don't feel any grooving on the pickup. Think its runnable



I also decided to pull off the petcock and check how dirty it is, I quickly remembered why I hate pump gas and why I'm going to race gas lol. Will be cleaning that really well
2
BToz
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4/10/2020
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Nampa, ID US
11/7/2021 6:53am
Nice!!! I also need to send my frame to powder coating. What color are you thinking? I’m having a hard time with 2 stroke Suzuki parts. There are not many left like stock ti foot pegs, very hard to find ones that aren’t bent/cracked. The rear brake pedal is difficult to find as well. I ordered aftermarket radiators (myler’s) from Motosport and they look terrible, crooked, crap welding ect. Pipes will probably be back in stock eventually?
Arln.rm125
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11/7/2021 3:37pm
BToz wrote:
Nice!!! I also need to send my frame to powder coating. What color are you thinking? I’m having a hard time with 2 stroke Suzuki parts...
Nice!!! I also need to send my frame to powder coating. What color are you thinking? I’m having a hard time with 2 stroke Suzuki parts. There are not many left like stock ti foot pegs, very hard to find ones that aren’t bent/cracked. The rear brake pedal is difficult to find as well. I ordered aftermarket radiators (myler’s) from Motosport and they look terrible, crooked, crap welding ect. Pipes will probably be back in stock eventually?
I am doing a gloss black but also love the forged charcoal color as it’s just a darker OEM style color. Some parts aren’t too hard to find and others suck to find. Look for 2004-2015 ktm footpegs as they bolt right up. The rear brake lever is a pain. I’m restoring my with a skotchbrite wheel and a new stainless steel brake tip from a ktm. Aftermarket radiators almost always suck, get the stock ones repaired by a company that specializes in it. Quite a few here in the states but I forget the names. They can repair about anything and brace them. Pipes are going to continue to be hard to find. Trying to find someone to strip the nickel plating from my pipe as I can’t find a works pipe. And my current pipe has 0 damage. Quite hard. I also tried to get my motor work done by Jeff at bills pipes along with a full system and I reached out many times with no response. So it’s staying pro circuit and motor work is being done by Tom Morgan.
1
yak651
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Appleton, WI US
11/8/2021 7:11am
djp48 wrote:
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and...
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and full of grime.
If the bike ran well I wouldn't worry to much about the flywheel and stator.
You should think seriously about putting some money into the suspension. You will be much more confident with a set up for your weight and abilities.
Arln.rm125 wrote:
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts...
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts like there’s a set screw holding it on the shaft. Not sure. The bike had power loss at the very end and was acting VERY rich even though it was jetted in. I think it was weak spark cause of all the metal shavings on the stator. I think it’ll be fine at this point. Trust me I want to toss some money into the suspension and get it revalved but this bike has already soaked up so much money I don’t have another 800-1000 dollars for that. It will get done eventually, but I don’t have the ability to do it for now. That plus my dad wants me to get used to it how it is and then get suspension done so that I can understand the difference. And understand what changes do what. Instead of doing it all at the same time. Appreciate the response
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new rider but should be a nice bike when you are done!
3
Arln.rm125
Posts
131
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/8/2021 7:27am
djp48 wrote:
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and...
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and full of grime.
If the bike ran well I wouldn't worry to much about the flywheel and stator.
You should think seriously about putting some money into the suspension. You will be much more confident with a set up for your weight and abilities.
Arln.rm125 wrote:
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts...
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts like there’s a set screw holding it on the shaft. Not sure. The bike had power loss at the very end and was acting VERY rich even though it was jetted in. I think it was weak spark cause of all the metal shavings on the stator. I think it’ll be fine at this point. Trust me I want to toss some money into the suspension and get it revalved but this bike has already soaked up so much money I don’t have another 800-1000 dollars for that. It will get done eventually, but I don’t have the ability to do it for now. That plus my dad wants me to get used to it how it is and then get suspension done so that I can understand the difference. And understand what changes do what. Instead of doing it all at the same time. Appreciate the response
yak651 wrote:
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new...
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new rider but should be a nice bike when you are done!
I completely agree, I would've rather put that money into suspension as it would've costed around the same. But my head had a decent bit of detonation damage, could've been run but I wasn't comfortable with it. Plus I am done dealing with pump gas and its ability to clog up the carb in no time and varnish quickly. The original plan was to use a local guy that cost 1/2 of what tom does and then get the suspension done locally too. But he quit responding after some sketchy stuff so I figured fuck it. Its getting done right. And I do agree with the cosmetic stuff but my dad wasn't wanting to let me get my suspension done as "I'm not at the skill level for it to be needed". Completely disagree with that as I think suspension can help at any skill level. So instead its getting some nice parts else where, Plus the wheels needed replaced anyway so might as well make it look nice with a new wheelset
vtec_
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67
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9/16/2021
Location
Columbia, SC US
11/9/2021 4:23pm
is the gas really that bad down there??

i feel like you could get this thing running without detonation if you just got it rebuilt properly and jetted it. you could prob get away with mixing 50/50 pump gas and c12
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Arln.rm125
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131
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/9/2021 8:48pm
vtec_ wrote:
is the gas really that bad down there?? i feel like you could get this thing running without detonation if you just got it rebuilt properly...
is the gas really that bad down there??

i feel like you could get this thing running without detonation if you just got it rebuilt properly and jetted it. you could prob get away with mixing 50/50 pump gas and c12
Yeah the pump gas isn’t good at all down here. Normally has all kinds of shit in it and varnishes super fast. I was surprised when the pilot completely clogged in 2 weeks. Tom is setting up the motor for straight vp c12. So if I mixed it, it would detonate. The previous owner had it jetted super rich so it’s a bit confusing why it was detonating like it was. Figured if I was taking it all down I might as well get everything reworked and setup for race gas. No more pump gas issues. I will say the detonation was not horrible, and in all reality was runnable. Just I would rather fix it while in there, and at the same time get away from pump gas
Phillip_Lamb
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ORANGEVALE, CA US
11/11/2021 9:12pm
djp48 wrote:
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and...
If the kick pedal has some wiggle to it keep working it and hosing it with penetraing lube. It should come off, probably just corroded and full of grime.
If the bike ran well I wouldn't worry to much about the flywheel and stator.
You should think seriously about putting some money into the suspension. You will be much more confident with a set up for your weight and abilities.
Arln.rm125 wrote:
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts...
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts like there’s a set screw holding it on the shaft. Not sure. The bike had power loss at the very end and was acting VERY rich even though it was jetted in. I think it was weak spark cause of all the metal shavings on the stator. I think it’ll be fine at this point. Trust me I want to toss some money into the suspension and get it revalved but this bike has already soaked up so much money I don’t have another 800-1000 dollars for that. It will get done eventually, but I don’t have the ability to do it for now. That plus my dad wants me to get used to it how it is and then get suspension done so that I can understand the difference. And understand what changes do what. Instead of doing it all at the same time. Appreciate the response
yak651 wrote:
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new...
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new rider but should be a nice bike when you are done!
ill disagree.

on all my 125's ive been able to overcome bad suspension or chassis with less work than a motor thats too slow.

good handling doesnt mean shit when your in last place casing everything
1
1
Arln.rm125
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131
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/12/2021 1:31am
Arln.rm125 wrote:
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts...
It has sat with pb blaster for just over a week. Didnt do anything. Also hit it with the torch. Yet again nothing, it almost acts like there’s a set screw holding it on the shaft. Not sure. The bike had power loss at the very end and was acting VERY rich even though it was jetted in. I think it was weak spark cause of all the metal shavings on the stator. I think it’ll be fine at this point. Trust me I want to toss some money into the suspension and get it revalved but this bike has already soaked up so much money I don’t have another 800-1000 dollars for that. It will get done eventually, but I don’t have the ability to do it for now. That plus my dad wants me to get used to it how it is and then get suspension done so that I can understand the difference. And understand what changes do what. Instead of doing it all at the same time. Appreciate the response
yak651 wrote:
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new...
I know it's too late but suspension would probably had been better investment than a Tom Morgan port/build motor and cosmetic issues. Especially being a new rider but should be a nice bike when you are done!
ill disagree. on all my 125's ive been able to overcome bad suspension or chassis with less work than a motor thats too slow. good handling...
ill disagree.

on all my 125's ive been able to overcome bad suspension or chassis with less work than a motor thats too slow.

good handling doesnt mean shit when your in last place casing everything
Yeah that's understandable, I will say though this bike already ripped and was more then fast enough. I just didnt love the powerband, super strong midrange and pulled into powerband really fast and smooth. But it just fell off super hard up top and didnt keep pulling like I'd hope'd for. Felt very midrange happy. Not ideal for super deep loomy sand that ill be riding. Thats my biggest hope with the motor mods is getting some more top end pull
Arln.rm125
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Okeechobee, FL US
11/12/2021 3:36am
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the nickel plating off the pipe? I would really love to get that raw look. Call nickel plating shops and see if they can do it? Ask the place that's power coating my frame if they can sand blast it off? They have a industrial sand blaster that may take it off. If I have to grind it all off myself then Ill just leave it and re shine it back up. But if anyone has any ideas on how to strip it without spending a ton of money id apricate it
Arln.rm125
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131
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8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/19/2021 4:44pm

Got a bit of carbon in, just because is it really a build without at least some carbon? Still figuring out what suspension company to go though, it’s a pain to find a company I like that’ll type 3 ano my uppers
4
11/19/2021 7:32pm
Good progress so far. Look into atleast servicing the suspension and get the right spring rates. You can message me on IG and I can help you with the service. It’s very simple and you only need a couple specialty tools (makes it easier). Also I believe there are light speed carbon case savers on eBay for a good price. If they aren’t on there anymore I’m pretty sure I have one id part with. Good job, it’s nice to see younger guys doing a build right these days
Arln.rm125
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/20/2021 12:02pm
Good progress so far. Look into atleast servicing the suspension and get the right spring rates. You can message me on IG and I can help...
Good progress so far. Look into atleast servicing the suspension and get the right spring rates. You can message me on IG and I can help you with the service. It’s very simple and you only need a couple specialty tools (makes it easier). Also I believe there are light speed carbon case savers on eBay for a good price. If they aren’t on there anymore I’m pretty sure I have one id part with. Good job, it’s nice to see younger guys doing a build right these days
Thanks bro, yeah I wanted to get it re valve'd but at this point I think just servicing it how it sits currently is my best bet. Cause the rear shock is already dead on what I need for my weight, makes me hopeful that the fork springs are close to what I need. Could you send your IG again? Forget the name. It would be great if you could help with some info and whatnot. Would make me much more confident tearing into it. I see lightspeed has case savers for 35 bucks, was looking at ordering a bit from them anyway. Thanks man, yeah I wanted to do this bike right as it was a bit sketchy. Currently its at a "stop gap build" before the new shop is built and I can do more myself. At that point it'll get more treatment of custom parts and possibly more depending on what I can afford at the time lol. Glad I have the help of my dad for some of this stuff though, been doing most of the build myself so far but he definitely helps out. His aircraft background can come in handy
Teejay
Posts
361
Joined
7/3/2018
Location
Midlands GB
11/20/2021 12:38pm
Are you running standard hubs? The pro carbon disc guard won’t work with talon hubs without modifying the spacers as it uses the acerbis mount. Just something to bare in mind. Cool build though mate, can’t beat a late model RM 👍🏼
1
Arln.rm125
Posts
131
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/20/2021 12:51pm
Teejay wrote:
Are you running standard hubs? The pro carbon disc guard won’t work with talon hubs without modifying the spacers as it uses the acerbis mount. Just...
Are you running standard hubs? The pro carbon disc guard won’t work with talon hubs without modifying the spacers as it uses the acerbis mount. Just something to bare in mind. Cool build though mate, can’t beat a late model RM 👍🏼
Shitttt, didn’t think about that thanks for the heads up. I’m going to be running some haans hubs. Should be here next week so I’ll have to check the fitment. Appreciate it, I definitely am loving the late year rm. I keep getting told that I could’ve just gotten a new ktm but that’s not the point of a build
2
Teejay
Posts
361
Joined
7/3/2018
Location
Midlands GB
11/20/2021 1:04pm
Teejay wrote:
Are you running standard hubs? The pro carbon disc guard won’t work with talon hubs without modifying the spacers as it uses the acerbis mount. Just...
Are you running standard hubs? The pro carbon disc guard won’t work with talon hubs without modifying the spacers as it uses the acerbis mount. Just something to bare in mind. Cool build though mate, can’t beat a late model RM 👍🏼
Arln.rm125 wrote:
Shitttt, didn’t think about that thanks for the heads up. I’m going to be running some haans hubs. Should be here next week so I’ll have...
Shitttt, didn’t think about that thanks for the heads up. I’m going to be running some haans hubs. Should be here next week so I’ll have to check the fitment. Appreciate it, I definitely am loving the late year rm. I keep getting told that I could’ve just gotten a new ktm but that’s not the point of a build
Exactly, anyone can buy a new Ktm, building a bike and learning about it along the way gives you a massive sense of achievement and you’ll always know how to fix anything in the future. And the last gen RM’s still handle better than anything in my opinion. Awesome work, keep at it mate.
1
11/20/2021 7:21pm
Good progress so far. Look into atleast servicing the suspension and get the right spring rates. You can message me on IG and I can help...
Good progress so far. Look into atleast servicing the suspension and get the right spring rates. You can message me on IG and I can help you with the service. It’s very simple and you only need a couple specialty tools (makes it easier). Also I believe there are light speed carbon case savers on eBay for a good price. If they aren’t on there anymore I’m pretty sure I have one id part with. Good job, it’s nice to see younger guys doing a build right these days
Arln.rm125 wrote:
Thanks bro, yeah I wanted to get it re valve'd but at this point I think just servicing it how it sits currently is my best...
Thanks bro, yeah I wanted to get it re valve'd but at this point I think just servicing it how it sits currently is my best bet. Cause the rear shock is already dead on what I need for my weight, makes me hopeful that the fork springs are close to what I need. Could you send your IG again? Forget the name. It would be great if you could help with some info and whatnot. Would make me much more confident tearing into it. I see lightspeed has case savers for 35 bucks, was looking at ordering a bit from them anyway. Thanks man, yeah I wanted to do this bike right as it was a bit sketchy. Currently its at a "stop gap build" before the new shop is built and I can do more myself. At that point it'll get more treatment of custom parts and possibly more depending on what I can afford at the time lol. Glad I have the help of my dad for some of this stuff though, been doing most of the build myself so far but he definitely helps out. His aircraft background can come in handy
I think I enjoy working on my bike as much as riding it. I’d love to start a new build. I have a kx250 that needs gone through, but there is nothing I could do to it performance wise, it has everything already. I’ll pm you my IG
2

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