2007 rm125 done? Crashed

Arln.rm125
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137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/22/2021 1:52pm
I think I enjoy working on my bike as much as riding it. I’d love to start a new build. I have a kx250 that needs...
I think I enjoy working on my bike as much as riding it. I’d love to start a new build. I have a kx250 that needs gone through, but there is nothing I could do to it performance wise, it has everything already. I’ll pm you my IG
I'd have to agree, I love riding and all but working on bikes is just too much fun. I hope to start another bike build and a truck build once the new shop is finished. What year kx250? love the way those bikes look and sound
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
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8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/22/2021 2:06pm Edited Date/Time 11/22/2021 2:07pm

Stopped off at my dads work to get the footpeg pin out, they got 4 planes in currently. Rich people and their planes, the owner of that black and grey 7x had his tv cut out for a few seconds every time it switched satellites, so he decided to spent a million dollars to upgrade it so it wouldn’t cut out. Gotta love people who have more money then patience. Anyway back on topic lol

The tab was slightly bent, and the pin was partially out from the previous owner, but they never removed the cotter pin so it wouldn’t drive the rest of the way out. Decided the best bet was to take a nematic hammer to it, took 30 some seconds at 90psi. The pin was well stuck in place but came out. Got a new set of pegs meant for a KTM, will modify the pegs and bore out the hole a bit. Then install new pins. The frame has some dents on the side bars from where it was dropped and the pegs dented the frame. Would love to repair it but don’t think there’s an easy way to do it. So instead I got the carbon frame guards to cover it up once it’s re powder coated
2
JC116_MTL
Posts
57
Joined
12/16/2020
Location
Montreal CA
11/22/2021 3:14pm
Arln.rm125 wrote:
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the nickel plating off the pipe? I would really love to get that raw look. Call nickel plating...
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the nickel plating off the pipe? I would really love to get that raw look. Call nickel plating shops and see if they can do it? Ask the place that's power coating my frame if they can sand blast it off? They have a industrial sand blaster that may take it off. If I have to grind it all off myself then Ill just leave it and re shine it back up. But if anyone has any ideas on how to strip it without spending a ton of money id apricate it
I brought this FMF pipe to my local Nickel plating shop and they stripped it for $20. Very clean job and IMO worth going out of your way instead of removing all yourself with tons of elbow grease. I don't think any reasonable shop would charge more than that.


6
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/22/2021 3:31pm
Arln.rm125 wrote:
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the nickel plating off the pipe? I would really love to get that raw look. Call nickel plating...
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the nickel plating off the pipe? I would really love to get that raw look. Call nickel plating shops and see if they can do it? Ask the place that's power coating my frame if they can sand blast it off? They have a industrial sand blaster that may take it off. If I have to grind it all off myself then Ill just leave it and re shine it back up. But if anyone has any ideas on how to strip it without spending a ton of money id apricate it
JC116_MTL wrote:
I brought this FMF pipe to my local Nickel plating shop and they stripped it for $20. Very clean job and IMO worth going out of...
I brought this FMF pipe to my local Nickel plating shop and they stripped it for $20. Very clean job and IMO worth going out of your way instead of removing all yourself with tons of elbow grease. I don't think any reasonable shop would charge more than that.


Thanks! That’s the exact info I was looking for. Wanted to know how much other shops charge so I don’t get screwed
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The Shop

Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/26/2021 7:05pm Edited Date/Time 11/26/2021 7:09pm

Kit showed up today, messed up a few minor things when designing the kit but was fun to do for the first time. Spent a few hours messing around changing stuff seeing if I liked it, but missed a few things. The biggest is that I messed up my name on one of the number plates. The second R in my last name will be slightly cut off by the bolt to hold it on. All good though, still pretty happy with it!


Also happy late thanksgiving to all those who celebrate it, hope you got to enjoy it a bit more then me. Jk always a good time when working on a bike even if it’s frustrating. Spent a few hours with an impact screw driver and some JIS bits trying to get the kick starter screw out. Wouldn’t move at all but did snap 3 JIS bits. Never seen high speed steel twist before snapping before
Already tried pb blaster for a few weeks and a ton of heat, burnt the shit out of my finger. Both did nothing to that screw though. Wondering if it’s corroded in place, that’s why I heated it. Try to expand the aluminum enough to break up some corrosion. Sadly nothing is working. Any ideas would be appreciated. Though I’m thinking about taking it to my local shop and forking up the 50 bucks before I break something
UGOTBIT
Posts
804
Joined
8/14/2018
Location
Upstate, NY US
Fantasy
1724th
11/27/2021 10:29am
What about trying something like this for the kicker?

It's cheap enough you can grind down the fingers on the end to get behind the arm/knuckle to pull it off


2
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/27/2021 4:34pm Edited Date/Time 11/27/2021 4:35pm
UGOTBIT wrote:
What about trying something like this for the kicker? It's cheap enough you can grind down the fingers on the end to get behind the arm/knuckle...
What about trying something like this for the kicker?

It's cheap enough you can grind down the fingers on the end to get behind the arm/knuckle to pull it off


Something is holding the kicker in place on the shaft as it has end play but won’t slide off. That’s why I want to get that screw off to see inside and try to figure something out but that screw won’t even come off. About to give up and take it to a shop to see if they have any ideas
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/27/2021 4:38pm



New wheels are here, love the burnt magnesium haans hubs on the yellow hoops so much. Sadly the pro carbon disk guard won’t fit these hubs so if anyone here in the states wants a brand new pro carbon disk guard let me know. If I can’t sell it I’ll keep it for when I rebuild the stock wheels as a backup set
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Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/27/2021 5:47pm
Also my gas tank has a few bolts that are spinning in place, heard of the “melt out” technique by putting an impact on the bolt and spinning the nut enough for it to melt the tank and pull out? Want to replace the rad shrouds but the bolts are stopping me, any ideas would be appreciated
UGOTBIT
Posts
804
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8/14/2018
Location
Upstate, NY US
Fantasy
1724th
11/27/2021 5:50pm
I wouldn't think there would be anything "keyed" in there holding the knuckle to the shaft, but I'm not a Zook guy.

That wheelset looks fantastic though!
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/27/2021 6:19pm
UGOTBIT wrote:
I wouldn't think there would be anything "keyed" in there holding the knuckle to the shaft, but I'm not a Zook guy. That wheelset looks fantastic...
I wouldn't think there would be anything "keyed" in there holding the knuckle to the shaft, but I'm not a Zook guy.

That wheelset looks fantastic though!
Yeah I’ve looked online and there isn’t supposed to be anything there but I’m not sure. It may just be corrosion as this bike was neglected by the old owner. But it’s weird that it’ll move but not pull off. Appreciate it, love the way it looks too. Should tie everything together well
BToz
Posts
277
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4/10/2020
Location
Nampa, ID US
11/27/2021 7:52pm
Really like the wheels! The threaded inserts are a pain when they spin, seems like the only option is to melt them out by spinning them with an impact until they give up. Make sure you have the other bolts out and pull on the shroud while your spinning the bad one. The Phillips isn’t going to reveal anything about why it won’t come off the splines. You’ll probably need a puller like the one in the picture but pitman arm pullers are usually pretty big. A tie rod puller or even battery terminal/wiper arm puller might work. My CR was like that and I got it off with my battery terminal puller, it has small thin feet that can behind it.
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Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/27/2021 8:38pm
BToz wrote:
Really like the wheels! The threaded inserts are a pain when they spin, seems like the only option is to melt them out by spinning them...
Really like the wheels! The threaded inserts are a pain when they spin, seems like the only option is to melt them out by spinning them with an impact until they give up. Make sure you have the other bolts out and pull on the shroud while your spinning the bad one. The Phillips isn’t going to reveal anything about why it won’t come off the splines. You’ll probably need a puller like the one in the picture but pitman arm pullers are usually pretty big. A tie rod puller or even battery terminal/wiper arm puller might work. My CR was like that and I got it off with my battery terminal puller, it has small thin feet that can behind it.
Appreciate it, wasn’t sure how I’d like the hub color when I ordered them but super happy now I’ve seen them in person. Yeah I think I have 2 spinning in the one side and 1 or 2 in the other. Tank is in decent shape other then that so I’ll try to melt them out and pray it doesn’t melt though the tank. Appreciate the idea, no idea why that kicker doesn’t wanna slide off. It has play just won’t slide off. Yeah I didn’t think taking that screw off would show much but I wanted to try. Definitely need to get it off sooner or later though as I need to grease it up. I may check autozone and see if they have one of those that I could rent. Otherwise I’ll talk to my local shop when I drop off the wheels to get the tires mounted
1
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/28/2021 8:58am
You may know this, but [url=https://clarkemfg.com/catalog/suzuki/rm250125-2001-2008-stock-tank/]Clarke MFG [/url] makes a stock style tank for the RM's. Always put a dab of grease in the tank insert...
You may know this, but Clarke MFG makes a stock style tank for the RM's. Always put a dab of grease in the tank insert threads.
Yeah I’ve seen them, just I’d rather try to save my tank as it’s in decent condition and can be fixed up. This bike is going to take a beating so a slightly messed up tank isn’t my biggest concern. I’d rather put the 300 bucks somewhere else. Thanks though, if I mess up my current tank that’s probably the route I’ll go
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/28/2021 12:00pm
Got the threaded inserts out of the tank, next is to jb weld them back in then wet sand the tank. Will also install the graphics after that. Will post up photos later
1
Arln.rm125
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137
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8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/28/2021 2:44pm


Inserts came out, crazy that something that big can spin in place like that. Also picked up some lye to strip the clear anodizing off the swingarm. Was recommended by a friend to try it before polishing then brushing the finish. I’ll also strip the yellow ano off the shift lever, temped to take the black ano off the triple clamps as the ano is pretty beat up and I dislike the logo on them. Any opinions would be appreciated
2
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/29/2021 4:27pm
joefez5555 wrote:
What carb work is Tom doing ?
I was hoping to get him to do a D shape bore on it, but he said he doesn't like to bore the tmx38’s as they don’t have much you can overbore. So he’s smoothing the bore and vapor blasting it. Along with tons of new OEM parts and jetting it in
joefez5555
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6/23/2020
Location
Porter, TX US
11/29/2021 5:20pm
Nice I was just curious, he also has my 07 RM 125 cylinder and head. He said the stock carb did not needed to be modified.
1
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
11/29/2021 7:52pm
joefez5555 wrote:
Nice I was just curious, he also has my 07 RM 125 cylinder and head. He said the stock carb did not needed to be modified.
That’s basically what he told me too, I know you CAN D shape bore the tmx38’s a little bit and some people claim it helps with topend power a bit so I was hoping to try it. But he didn’t want to do it. Still sent him my carb as it was nasty and I wanted to get it restored/vapor blasted. Plus it had some odd nicks in the bore that he’ll smooth out
rmgsxr
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Location
Oak Grove, MO US
11/30/2021 5:09pm
There is nothing holding the kickstart lever on other than some wear. Get a puller like the one pictured above and it will come right off. If you can get the screw out of the kick part make sure and don't lose the ball and spring that is in there. Clean it all up and it will be fine.

On the tank inserts, one thing that happens too many times is that someone runs a bolt in that is a couple millimeters too long. Once they bottom out tight they can seize in. And you are dealing with different metals which isn't always a good thing. Always run your tank bolts in with your fingers and make sure they can go far enough in.
1
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
12/1/2021 2:12pm
rmgsxr wrote:
There is nothing holding the kickstart lever on other than some wear. Get a puller like the one pictured above and it will come right off...
There is nothing holding the kickstart lever on other than some wear. Get a puller like the one pictured above and it will come right off. If you can get the screw out of the kick part make sure and don't lose the ball and spring that is in there. Clean it all up and it will be fine.

On the tank inserts, one thing that happens too many times is that someone runs a bolt in that is a couple millimeters too long. Once they bottom out tight they can seize in. And you are dealing with different metals which isn't always a good thing. Always run your tank bolts in with your fingers and make sure they can go far enough in.
Didn’t think there would be anything holding on the kick starter but I wanted to check. Will look for a puller locally and see if I can get it off. Now that you mention it I just went and checked. Both inserts that had spun had longer bolts in them that bottom out. Appreciate the tip. Luckily I got a whole new bolt kit so those will be replaced
Arln.rm125
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137
Joined
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
12/20/2021 11:50am




I got the kick starter off, appreciate the recommendations to get a puller. 12 dollar Amazon car battery terminal puller worked the trick. It was really stuck on there. I’m not quite sure why but the kick starter won’t go back onto the shaft. All the splines look alright






Alright back to cool stuff. The tom Morgan motor cyl, head, and carb are back. All setup for vp c12. Should be a fun little motor. Hoping to get the bike back running in the next month or so. To be able to get in a little riding at least before the Florida summer comes back into effect
joefez5555
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6/23/2020
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Porter, TX US
12/20/2021 12:06pm
Arln.rm125 wrote:
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2021/12/20/523781/s1200_F96F6B22_7F4B_4D40_AD29_A674D305181E.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2021/12/20/523782/s1200_4EE64F4B_7488_4EA9_AA37_9536ACD0C2D9.jpg[/img] I got the kick starter off, appreciate the recommendations to get a puller. 12 dollar Amazon car battery terminal puller worked the trick. It...




I got the kick starter off, appreciate the recommendations to get a puller. 12 dollar Amazon car battery terminal puller worked the trick. It was really stuck on there. I’m not quite sure why but the kick starter won’t go back onto the shaft. All the splines look alright






Alright back to cool stuff. The tom Morgan motor cyl, head, and carb are back. All setup for vp c12. Should be a fun little motor. Hoping to get the bike back running in the next month or so. To be able to get in a little riding at least before the Florida summer comes back into effect
I also got my cylinder and head back from Tom M and man it rips !

We normally run c12 but switched to T2 after talking to Tom.

Follow his jetting specs cause there where spot on for me !




5
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
12/20/2021 12:20pm
joefez5555 wrote:
I also got my cylinder and head back from Tom M and man it rips ! We normally run c12 but switched to T2 after talking...
I also got my cylinder and head back from Tom M and man it rips !

We normally run c12 but switched to T2 after talking to Tom.

Follow his jetting specs cause there where spot on for me !




Love the bike man! I was planning on running t2 but after talking with tom he said he can get a tiny bit more power from c12. Plus I like that c12 doesn’t have oxygen in it and you don’t have to drain it after every ride. Where did you feel the biggest gains on the tmr cyl? I’m hoping for a bit more top end. Though I’m doing a ton of work that should help it a bit up top. Taking about 2 pounds off the rear wheel should be a huge difference
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
2/7/2022 10:15pm


It’s been a while, but I just got the frame back from powder coating today and mocked up the motor. Should be running in a few weeks

Rear brake setup, stainless tip and a zeta clevis
6
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
Joined
8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
2/8/2022 8:16pm

Got my new works pipe in the mail today from the UK. So I had to toss the motor back in and mock it up. Love the look
5
Arln.rm125
Posts
137
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Location
Okeechobee, FL US
2/12/2022 11:11pm Edited Date/Time 2/14/2022 1:18am




Subframe is on, forks are together and on, and front wheel is on. Tomorrow hopefully I’ll get the shock done and swingarm cleaned up. pipe is a bit wonky looking as it’s sitting in place not bolted on
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Arln.rm125
Posts
137
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8/20/2021
Location
Okeechobee, FL US
2/15/2022 4:14am

Wired it up overnight, also got the radiators on and rad hoses cut to length. Also got some ktm footpegs mounted up with some mods. They fit perfect with absolutely zero play. I also arlon wrapped the wiring harness before putting it in. I didn’t want to de pin it and slide over sheathing. Arlon makes this stuff that’s kinda like electrical tape but also not. It goes on like electrical tape but doesn’t have adhesive so it doesn’t peal. You stretch it and do a 50% overlay for each wrap and it sticks to itself. Stuff holds on strong and works much better then electrical tape. I’m sure aviation guys know exactly what I’m talking about. Eventually I’ll do a custom harness with some nice lightweight wires. As these stock suzuki harnesses aren’t the best

Love this angle of the bike
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