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I just changed the inner hub. I thought I broke the clutch cable. There was nothing at the lever. The top of the cable was good. So I pulled the ignition cover & that cable was good. I put my finger & the clutch lift lever moved freely. That part connects to the clutch rod.it should Not move easy. I take the clutch cover off & pressure plate . And I see the nut backed off the inner clutch hub. Is it recommended to use red lock tight or blue. I,m switching the parts to another bike eventually. Thx
Is this the double boost port CR125 with the Geiger porting? You’ll never be able to keep a clutch nut on that beast. Too much torque. Might try welding it next time.
What happened to the tab lock washer?
The washer is on there. I torqued the nut too. I never had that happen. I thought I broke the end of the shaft that goes on the clutch rod. But that’s good see. I normally don’t use stiffer springs but I am now. Wiseco inner hub Hinson was sold out. Hinson basket , pressure plate & clutch kit with steel plates. I went into a corner & the lever was dead . I had old gas in the bike after a break I checked the gas . And wanted to burn it off so I went for a fast lap lap then it happened.
Did you forget to bend the lock washer?
No 1 tab was bent in good the other was bent in enough to stop the nut. That’s why I asked about blue lock tight on it. All those clutch parts are coming off & going on a different bike. Otherwise I would red lock tight it.
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Yes torqued to 51 lbs + a little bit more. I can’t be the only 1 this happened too right ?
Red lock tight will loosen up with a small torch or a heatgun if you want to make sure it stays tight. Get it above 500f and it will back right off
It’s a funky deal might snap the inner hub notches out then . The track is concrete hard with holes there at angles & etc. a 40 yr old that did LL on a 80 against RC even said 2 laps & your hands are beat to hell. Wayy rougher than The LL track. Only 1 other rider did a couple laps. On the pipe you hit a ton of holes the bars whip left& rt 8+ times I hv my head stem tight too. Everyone was riding a small track in the pits. Too many kids to land on there. I barely got in any laps it hurts like hell to stand b4 riding . Bored out of my mind I figured I can’t get anymore injured .
The lock washer tabs would normally be enough to stop it backing out without loctite, those holes must have been bad.
Those holes ? What holes ?
Nut cannot back out if you have lock washer orientated correctly. Either threads are stripped or your small gear is backing out of basket.
The 1st time I threaded the nut on . It only went on so far and stopped . I took it off then it went on good. I think the nut is bad the threads look good tho. I borrowed a nut from my mod bike that’s apart. I rode a small track & the clutch worked perfectly. Pic of today the tabs on the washer are closer to the nut than the pic . Tabs are a little tough to get down.
- You did not install that lock washer correctly its upside down.. New nut, New washer, Little bit of Locktite, Lock both sides
@profeshenal125 you were having a bad day, everybody has them, I have to agree with @Honda4life , lock washer is on backwards...
I installed the washer the same way as it was oem stock or when it was built. The 2 tabs bend over the nut. I think that’s correct . I work on the bikes outside on blacktop so I get heated up if I,m there all day. Those pics are real hard to see exactly what is going on.
Hondas4life is 100% correct
He’s a profeshenal. Do not doubt his word.
Is this better...
CR250's manual picture is clearer...
Pit Row
Tell me you are going to soak those drive plates in oil before you install them.
Thx I can see the 2 tabs facing in to hook on the inner hub now. My book didn’t hv much for pics, etc. I put it together the same way it came apart . I,ll just take it apart again no biggy. Not like the 1st time my flywheel puller has a couple bad threads - hassle . Pull the strator & clutch lift arm to check it. It’s 68 bucks still available at service Honda I think they hv the cheapest oem parts. Hey I noticed the rt hole on the stator is bigger . Probably to change timing right ? I installed it in the same spot. I woukd like to move the power to higher rpm,s. I used to stack 2-3 base gaskets. Try a different pipe then drop a tooth I hv a cometic spacer plate but need a base gasket on each side . 1 tooth less smooths the hard hit out & spreads the power out with more pull on top.
Buy a service manual, they are usually available new from Helm, but it looks like they are out of stock...
https://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=AHC&Make=AHC&Model=CR02&Year=2004&Category=1&Keyword=&Module=&selected%5Fmedia=
There's one on eBay...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186606619796
The hole on the stator plate is elongated to adjust timing...
Use a bit of red nbd
Try to post for the 3rd time my pics keep deleting it. Great pic my book doesn’t hv it. In a time crunch I got it rt now . My janky vise grip hub holder slipped & t wrench got my upper lip . Dying to try the hgs pipe I installed it with a fmf shorty . After working on a bunch of stuff I went to the y shower, whirlpool , sauna . Then go load up I rode the little track I Really like the pipe it got rid of the 2-3 quick blips a 04 is know for run smoother low to mid . Mid has a nasty pull
Yet into a high rev topend . I can lean it out more 390 to 380 , needle is 1/2 leaner, 40 pilot getting a 37.5 , sir crew played with it 1 1/2 to 2 out . It’s quick & real fun to ride c12 bikes usually are.![]()
Pics won’t upload again, ah
Post a reply to: Inner clutch hub nut came loose . I torqued it. Use red lock tight ?