Engine oil/Factory HRC Team

Factory HRC Honda in MXGP uses Motul. 

Motul makes great products. 

Just change whatever motorcycle spec oil often. That does more than anything. My bikes run the oil only for max 3 hours then I change it. Might be changing it too often and wasting money but hasn't failed me.

I use motul 300v, its ester based which is the highest quality I think, someone will correct me. Do Hondas still have separate oil/trans?

Use a quality oil ✅

Change it when you feel it’s necessary ✅

I think the majority or teams use motul, regardless of what brand sponsors them. That’s enough for me to run it 

300v is sure great in an R6 that lives between 10k-16000 rpms. I am still using Motorex in my KTM and if I switch it will be to Motul 300v.

"Highest quality" is sort of a misnomer when talking about base oils. Ester based oils usually function in a way that is most preferable to high-performance engines, but there are some oils that are better in other ways. As mentioned above, changing your oil often is the best practice for long-term protection. To facilitate that, using a mineral oil like the GN4 is a great way to go; cost-effective and still very good. 

Here is a brief explanation of base oils. They are broken down into 5 groups, based on their composition and characteristics. (Moto Tribology can probably come on here and educate us all further.)
-Group I: Mineral oils (conventional oil). This group is comprised of dead dinosaurs. Refined, cleaned and packaged. These oils may contain additives for multi-viscosity, better wear protection, engine cleaning, seal conditioning, or other functions.

-Group II: Mineral oils, hydro-cracked. This group is also dead dinosaurs, but is processed and refined more thoroughly through a process known as hydro cracking. As I understand, it is boiled or steam-injected or something. The oil manufacturer gets a better separation of heavy and light elements and can produce a much more homogenous product by selecting one of the "layers" of resulting oil. Most "conventional" oils are group I or II, or a mix of both. I believe theat GN4 is one such oil, but don't quote me on that. 

-Group III: Mineral oils, extreme hydro-cracked. This is where things get confusing. Group III oils are still dead dinosaurs, but they have been so highly refined that they behave a lot like synthetics. In fact, international law allows blenders to call oils in this group "synthetic," even though the base oil wasn't really man-made. You can legally call a Group III oil a full-synthetic, and actually many, many brands do exactly this. In fact, you only need to have a large percentage of your oil made from Group III and the rest can be Group I - it's still a synthetic oil. Lots of "medium-cost" synthetics are of this configuration. I think HP4 is this kind of product.

-Group IV: PAO. Polyalphaolefins are a group of synthetic molecules that are the base for these oils. The molecules form sort of a ring that attaches to itself. These oils are really good at resisting breakdown and are great for long-interval oil changes. The original Mobil 1 oils were PAOs (may still be.) Bel-Ray uses PAO in a lot of their products.

-Group V: Everything else. Group V is anything that won't fit into the first four categories. Esters are part of this group, but so are vegetable oils like castor. (Ester is synthetic, castor is not.) Esters cling to surfaces very well, so they are great at protecting engine parts from scuffing and wear. Lots of high-performance brands use esters in their high-end formulations. HP4S and HP4RU may be ester synthetics. (Again, don't quote me on that.)

One final thought: Oils these days are all pretty good. As long as you are using a motorcycle-specific (wet clutch) oil and changing it often, you should be fine. Higher performance mostly comes from longer oil change intervals due to less degradation of the oil - a process that is irrelevant if you are changing the oil often. Modern 4-strokes destroy oil, even the good stuff. Change it often. 
 

at a minimum run what the manual says. From there, as long as you're at the same viscosity you can spend as much as your conscious is comfortable with. Honda says run 10w-30 conventional MA2 rated. anything above that is blue sky.