Posts
72
Joined
1/19/2025
Location
sebastian, FL, USA
whats the solution to minimize/eliminate the top shock mount slop? this causes the rear wheel to have un-tensioned free play anywhere in its stroke while in motion, not just when you lift it to put on the stand.
You need to take the shock off and inspect your top bearing. It shouldn't have any play the way you are describing. Would be a good time to grease/replace your other linkage and swingarm bearings.
Can you post a video?
What year KTM?
19. first ktm ive had with it tho everyone seems to say its normal on 17-22. linkage and swingarm and subframe etc etc all tight and zero play, 100% the play is the top shock bolt and since the linkage multiples stroke, ~1mm of movement at the shock top ends up allowing the rear wheel to have significant travel. seems like the bolt diameter is a hair too small or something.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Have you replaced the top mount bearing? A 19 and some hours on it, you will have play there.
Both of my 2016s have a slight amount of “give” in the upper shock bearing. I don’t remember when I noticed it, but the first time I did I saw everyone saying that it was normal. I replaced the upper bearing and the bolt as well, play was still there. It’s a lot more linear then when a lower shock or linkage bearing is toast though, not sure if that’s what you’re experiencing.
All the showas I ran had a little slop in that top bearing from new.... figured it was by design.
Some are worse than others, but they're all like this once you get a c hair of time on the bike.
Best thing I've found to help with this is to put a Nordlock washer on the top bolt, and to keep the entire linkage and shock system set to torque regularly. I'm saying every couple hours to loosen all components, then re-torque them (always do it in the same order).
My SX torque specs:
FRONT END
triple clamps: top 18ft lbs
bottom 13ft lbs
pinch bolt 18ft lbs
Fork pinch bolts: 18ft lbs
Brake caliper: 18ft lbs
Front axle: 35 ft lbs
ENGINE BOLTS
Front and bottom motor bolts: 35ft lbs
Engine hangers: 18ft lbs
Pivot bolt 58 ft lbs
Subframe
25ft lbs
Shock
Top: 40 ft lbs
Bottom: 35ft lbs
Linkage
All three bolts
45 ft lbs
OEM torque settings on page 130
https://azwecdnepstoragewebsiteuploads.azureedge.net/23_3214640_en_OM.pdf
Why the lower torque settings? I believe OEM is 60ft lbs on linkage and shock and 100ft lbs on swingarm I just did mine two days ago so its fresh in my memory. I've also heard people recommend torqueing them while bike is sitting on its own weight not on a stand.
One word: compliance.
exactly. did this on my rmz years ago and 100% felt like a new bike. took all the sharp edges off of it.
I tighten all my suspension nuts/ bolts after removing bike from the stand and pressing down on the rear suspension a few times, I read that somewhere also ..at one time or another over the last 6-8 years of owning KTM”s, I have had subframe, shock, linkage and motor mount bolts all come loose on my KtM”s , even with blu loctite on the threads, if a loose bolt is not caught in time, it will oval out the mounts and/ or gall up the bolt itself, my main concern with my KTM”s is to keep the bolts from loosening up… whenever I service any of these bolts/nuts, I always wire brush and use brake clean on the treads before applying new loctite….I must admit, I don’t use a torque wrench on any of these bolts, if anything I am on the tighter side of the scale…
The constant chattering of a worn out top or bottom shock bearing will eventually crack a frame.
You shouldn't torque to spec values when you have a used bike unless you are sure threads are not stretched and they are not lubed.
If you torque the swingarm to 100nm and you have lube on threads and towards frame, it will be ~130-140nm.
I run my upper clamps 12nm and lower 8nm. Lubed. Swingarm 60nm. Linkage around 45nm. Rear wheel 60nm.
So lower torque with 40% when threads and bolt head is not guaranteed dry.
This
That is key.. make sure you torque your shock and linkage bolts and nuts while the bike is under its own weight and not on the stand...Very Important!
I'm super anal about not having any grease on the nut and threads of linkage and swingarm bolts. Clean threads with brake clean and wire brush and torque to OEM to keep it simple.
Sometimes I think we should take it back to the 70's and throw the torque wrench in the trash. I've seen multiple videos of pro mechanics putting shocks on the bike with T handles and no torque wrench. Tight is tight.
Post a reply to: KTM shock top bolt slop/play/clunk