Ktm/Husky 300 Do's and Don'ts

Replace Rekluse with OEM clutch, do normal maintenance/check’s (top end, bearing, etc), clean out carb or just buy new brass (I ran JD jetting on TC250 with good results, if a little lean), loop carb fuel overflow like Jarvis (look up Jarvis carb mods), and NEVER sell it. 

Still one of the best frame and motor combos around, and better than the TBI’s for my money (I owned carbed 2017 TC250, 2021 300 XC TPI, and 2023 TX300 TBI). 

@joe846 has good advice.

I have an '18 TX.  The Jarvis mods combined with a JD Jetting kit runs very well.  If the bike has been sitting also order a new float needle valve and seat assembly.  It is prone to leaking over time.  Especially with ethanolated fuel.  I run the manual recommended 60:1 oil ratio using Motul 710 or Belray SI-7.  The Mikuni seems to be picky about fuel ratios.  

I run the bike in slow speed PNW and interior BC technical trails so my setup will be a bit different.

Chris Birch flywheel weight with the PV screw set flush in the case makes very smooth power.

Either 13/52 or 13/53 gearing depending on which wheel set I have.  

Front Michelin mousse with a Bridgestone M59 or X31.

Rear is usually a Dunlop AT81EX (mainly because I get a deal) and Tubliss or mousse depending on riding conditions or racing.  I have a Lucioli on order.  

Other than that guard up as per your riding area.  One recommendation is to stay away from Bullet Proof Design rad guards (or any similar mounting style)  The rad guards mount only to the 2 posts on the frame.  The frame is very thin and that point and the guards will tear the mounts out of the frame.  

If you need a rad guard go with Emporer Racing.  The have a bar that connects the two guards together. https://www.emperorracing.com/product/ktm-2195-billet-rad-guard/

I also stick with the stock footpegs.  I have seen the footpeg mounts torn from the frame when running super strong aftermarket foot pegs.  If your area is not rocky this may not be a concern.  

If you are in the carb doing the float seat it would also be a great time to replace the jet bblock gasket.

JD Jetting has the best option that I know of: https://jdjetting.com/product/jdmk05-mikuni-tmx-jet-block-kit/

I suppose I ride somewhere like you will, if you are in Ohio. I have been running KTM/Husky 250s for decades now, getting a new one every 3 years or so. It is the same scooter as the 300, just a little smaller piston. Typically putting on about 250 hours a year. I really never do much to them except make ergonomic changes. The newer one has Kreft suspension, but I always send them out to someone to set it up for me personally, Jamie at ProTune in Ohio is good, PR2 in Pittsburgh area as well. I never really mess with the intake, I have put on an FMF pipe a time or two, i don't bother with that either lately. I run Scotts stabilizers, Twisted engineering carbon fiber bars, seat concepts seats, several different types of flex type bar mounts like the PHDS system or XC gear deal, I gear them down a couple teeth too to get the gaps in the gears closer, heated grips are a must as well. I don't put any additional armor on them, I've run into rocks or stumps from time to time that smashed a pipe but didn't wreck me, if I had a pipe guard it would have thrown me down, and pipes can be blown out easy enough. I run MME levers with tape under them, shoved in and a little loose so I can get them with my point finger, hockey tape on the levers as well for better feel. You can chase your tail for years working on engine improvements on these scooters and spend a fortune, or you can just ride the shit out of them and get used to how they run. You have a pretty decent machine there, get comfortable on it, go through some fuel, and just do proper maintenance per the owners manual. You will be fine.

Try putting some Berryman's in the fuel before you start tearing apart the carb maybe.

As someone above posted get the jd jetting jet block gasket. I don’t care what the stock one looks like. It is bad.