Hi,
this is my first post here. I recently purchased an Athena GET ECU for my 2023 Honda CRF450RL. It comes loaded with 2 custom maps that can be switched via a map switch that mounts to the bars. Map 1 is a full on “race” tune and map 2 is a dialed back version that provides better fuel economy and reduced power down low for better control in technical spots. My question relates to the factory maps that come on the ECU’s from Athena? There is a snappy, soft, hard pack, sand, wet, etc.. that changes the ignition and fueling parameters. Are these 100% safe to use? Has anybody on here had any experience using this ECU? There’s no a lot of info on these ECU’s online and hardly any info that helps on Athena’s website. I’d like to change some of the parameters to fine tune the performance of my bike but I don’t know how far in each direction I can go with ignition and fueling. The custom maps are from taco Moto and while they are awesome tunes, the bike could benefit from a couple adjustments here and there because of my location. I’m in the Midwest while these tunes were developed in the southwest and Texas. Any help is appreciated!
I would suggest calling TacoMoto and ask them since they are the ones who mapped it. They would be the ones to tell you what and how far you can take the adjustments yourself
I had no luck asking TM myself. I just deleted those maps. I am going to borrow a wideband air/fuel monitor to work on the maps.
Yeah, when I had issues with mine, I texted Mike from taco Moto just to get some pre fabricated lame text from him at 3 am about how he was out in the middle of the dunes ripping gears or some bullshit. lol customer service is very poor. Sent my ECU back to them and they told me there was nothing wrong but they remapped it and I haven’t had it thrown the fuel injection malfunction light anymore since. If you have access to a knock sensor, that would come in handy for tuning as well. Let me know what kind of luck you have with it. This past week I used the factory Athena “Flat” map that comes with the ECU and had excellent luck with it. It was running like a top. I would suggest trying that too. Hope this helps!!
All I get is a brief response that always begins with "Amigo!". Never a real answer, but I guess that is to be expected given the small operation.
I did a big bore kit on my FE350 that has a FMF exhaust, FC air boot, 2 stroke filter housing and drilled cover. It definitely breathes better and given the added 16-17cc and .5 point of compression, I think it must be lean.
I am on my own with the GET but will figure it out! I also have a Vortex, but the fuel trims are pretty limited.
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I have a Tacomoto GET as well. I got it in 2022. The Tacomoto maps are both copies of the factory default
flat". I asked them why this was the case, and Mike claimed now they were special tacomoto maps that had hours of testing, dynos, etc. BS, they are both the same, all they did was change the file names.
I also can not get my bike to start over 12k feet, I asked about this and if they tested at altitude as well, since they were marketing them for snow bikes. I got some lame response that might have well claimed they tested them on snow bikes while summit Everest.
In my several experiences with Mike at Tacomoto. my experience has been he is not very bright. He doesn't know much about bikes, no does he have any marketing or people skills. He's just trying to make a buck by regurgitating what other people have hyped. .
Hey Josh,
wanting to know how you were able to figure that out? As far as the maps being the exact same as the Athena maps? If I could prove it I’d get my money back because that’s BS that he would pull something like that. Given the map 2 I can feel a difference in from map 1 but it’s probably something like them pulling the timing out. I seen they just got a dyno so maybe now he can ACTUALLY do some work on making our maps better like they were originally supposed to be.
No I gave up on the ECU 2 years ago, shortly after I got it, after waiting 6 months I think. I live in Colorado so altitude changes are normal, 4500-14,000 feet can be experienced in 60 miles. And the barometric sensor is one of the main reason I got the GET. The OEM KTM ECU adjusts for barometric pressure, but only once when the engine starts, it does not taken continuous readings and change, which is fine if you stop and start the engine every 2000 feet or so.
I installed it on a brand new 2022 KTM 500 XCF-W. Reeds are gone, de-smoged, and a FMF 4.1 slip on. The bike had maybe 300 miles on it.
Do you have the WiFi module? You can pull his two maps. Zero changes were made to the fuel or timing on either maps, they are identical. If you do have the WiFi module don't connect to it with the bike running as it causes a repeating 30 second misfire, a problem I reported to Tacomoto and provided a video of, and I don't remember what they said, other than it was somehow my fault, bad wiring or some crap.

I also reported the altitude issue, that the bike will not start above 12k feet. It does not matter if it is hot, cold, etc. It starts and dies, as if the ECU told it to die after it fires once. Tacomoto assured me this ECU had under gone extensive testing on the 500 on the snowbike platform, and my map #1 was a special snow bike map even as that is what I requested. I tested the OEM ECU and GET ECU and above 12k feet, when it will not start on the GET, all you have to do is pop in the stock ECU and you are good so go. I carried around my stock ECU just for this. Although most of the time I would ride all the way up something, stop the back before heading down so I could pop start it. Also, the bike runs fine above 12k, if it is kept running. This was somehow my fault too, I think valves were to blaim, despite also providing videos of a new start on the GET and a start on the OEM ECU. I think this is when they cut off communicating with me. I don't even get a hey Amigo at 3am, let me get back to you reply.
The only change from the stock FLAT map, is they lowered the RPM limit from +300 to +100.If you think there is a difference between the two maps, it is perceived, not real. The FLAT map is even leaner than the KTM map which just makes the bike run hot on slow technical terrain, which is rather common in the mountains. I can't tell how hot because the GET does not spit out standard OBDII data like the OEM ECU did, but the fan rarely ran on the stock ECU, it runs all the time on the GET. They could have lowered the fan start temp, but I don't believe Tacomoto has the MAYA software, nor the knowledge to us it if they did. Those dyno readings where either created in Excel or stolen from someone else (more likely) as it would take a 1/2 hour to actually make the spreadsheet, LOL
The two maps are named EXCF_20_TacoMotoRace and EXCF500_22_TacoEn.
Neither the original youtube video or the newer video on setting the TPS are correct. The correct method is in the manual that came with the ECU and it describes the TPS reset dongle, something the taco moto video called a dust cap, LOL.
I have no doubt Tacomoto Mike knows a thing or two about bikes. Probably a lot of trial and error, with an emphasis on error as he does not seem to have any common sense or engineering level understanding of an internal combustion engine. He is also terrible with customer service but yet good with false marketing.
All 4 tabes are all zero across the board.

Hey, I wanted to clear some things up for you. So the “factory” maps in the ECU are just profiles that you can pick to use over the top of the taco Moto maps. If that makes sense? The factory flat maps all have zero across the board because they are flat and aren’t changing and fueling or timing parameters. At least on my bike there’s a big difference between map one and map two. The reason you were seeing all zeros on the flat map though is because you can’t actually see the base parameters of the maps in the ECU. No matter what map you were to have flashed on the ECU, if you go to the flat factory map, it’s going always show 0’s across the board. I hope that helps clear some things up for you. I’m not disagreeing with you, just wanted to make sure that you understood the app fully
The picture above is the tacomoto maps I pulled from the ECU, which are the same as the flat. Versus the flat/soft map.

Perhaps there is a difference between the Tacomoto Map 1 and Map 2 and I did not notice it. I did notice that neither Map 1 or 2 works at high altitude, and both of them run way too lean and hot at altitude.
I don’t live in an area with high altitude so I can’t comment on that. I think where I live averages between 400-800 ft above sea level. (Illinois) so when you go to the soft factory map it show more fueling, right? And the snappy map shows less fueling? Those are premade profiles that you can lay over the original map in the ECU to change the characteristics. Does that make sense? Athena made those as premade adjustments to give the customers an idea of how to properly tune and use the tuning capability of the app. I know what you are saying but say I made a complete custom map for your bike.. you watch me do it and give me the okay to upload it to you ECU.. when you open up the app and go to the flat map, on the make believe map I just created for you bike as an example, it would show all 0’s across the board too. Does that make sense?
Also, I’m riding a crf450rl, not a KTM bike. Not sure if that matters or not but just wanted to put that out there as well. I could explain it a lot easier over the phone. It’s hard to come up with a way to explain it on here that will make sense
I have a 2019 Honda 450l. Thinking about buying SX1 to ride single tract. Would you buy the SC1 again, knowing what you know now. If so, toggle or LED?
Yeah, I would buy it again. It is a pricey investment but I will say that it does cure the things about the bike that everyone dislikes. It will completely cure the twitchy throttle. I was still get some decel pop from my exhaust until I installed the Graves smog delete plate. It’s super easy to install and if you have questions the people at graves are very responsive and helpful. They had me lined out in no time. With an exhaust, ECU, smog delete, and a new knobby back tire.. my bike feels closer to a race bike. Of course it’s not as mean as it’s lacking probably 10-12 hp compared to the R bikes but it’s miles ahead of where it was in stock trim. I can only speak for the SX1 ECU though. I wasn’t able to try the Taipan or Vortex. They only had the mechanical handlebar switch available when I ordered mine. I would have went with the LED switch all day though. Very feature rich switch and shows exactly what setting your ECU is set to. I believe you’ll be happy with the ECU. If you have any questions feel free to contact me. Contacting taco Moto hasn’t proved very fruitful for me with any questions I’ve had. Luckily I’ve been able to figure most of it out myself. I’m happy to help if you run into any issues you have questions about. Hope this helps!
cheers and gears! Be safe out there and most importantly, have fun!
Taco Mike also emailed me and told me that they’re bringing new engine mapping to the bikes by the end of summer. He never answered whether or not they would be free for customers that purchased the ECU through them.. they better be!
It does help. Thanks
Decided to do a bit of research. Called Dan at Athena. Extremely helpful. Second call was to TacoMoto for a few final questions. Did not get a return call from the message I left on their answering machine. Then I sent a follow up email yesterday as their voice mail promises a quicker response that way. Still no response.
Add me to the list of people duped by Taco Moto... Ordered the full kit with the LED switch and the ProMoto cap and ultra silencer tip for my 2020 FE 350...
Installed it all, and it runs amazingly exactly like a stock bike. In fact, on the Hot map, with the ultra silent tip removed (so basically as loud as it gets) then i get maybe a TINY performance increase. With the tip on, or in the enduro map, its noticeably weaker and more difficult to ride.
I usually ride tight woods in 2nd and 3rd... usually putt around in 3rd and have plenty of power stock to zip around. With the GET in the hot map, 3rd actually feels sluggish. I'm constantly shifting back down to 2nd to keep the bike moving now.
The LED switch is a MAJOR Pain in the butt. Switching maps is ok, but trying to turn on Traction control when moving is nearly impossible. The button is tiny and hard to press... then, as you keep pressing it, you realize that it has randomly reset itself back to 0 TC setting, so now to get any type of TC, you have to STOP, hold the button for 5-6 seconds, then press through the up/down 4-5 times, then wait for it to stop flashing. Only then can you turn TC on and off...
It MAY or may NOT keep the TC setting next time you stop the motor. So far, more often than no, its reset it back to ZERO settings on TC when the bike turns off... and of course, you cant stop and kill the motor to set TC, you have to leave the motor running because it'll kill power to the LED switch within less than 5 seconds, which is the time it takes you to hold the button down to enter the TC setting mode.
So imagine you're in a race, or just riding some trails and want to keep the TC on at 5, but its a tough trail so you keep stalling the motor, and EVERY TIME (or almost every time) the TC resets itself.
On to Taco Moto... txt him this morning asking for help. he replied, so I answered with the basic details of my setup (no reeds, promoto cap on stock exhaust, O2 sensor removed. Basically gave tech details and said I was frustrated as it felt the same or worse than factory stock, and my buddy behind me told me he smelled unburnt fuel / smelled rich.
Instead of trying to go over more details, or ask for the ECU info from the settings page of the wifi module, or anything, his answer was:
"Install per video
Set tps and idle speed
Stock that bike makes 35 hp
Your configuration will net 46"
I replied:
"installed per video.
Already set TPS and idle speed per video.
bike still runs exactly like stock."
His response: "Send it back for a full refund if you're unhappy "
I was PISSED. His entire site is based around convincing us how awesome his customer service is, how good his maps are, and how hes a rider that supports riders, not some big company that doesn't have time to help.
I pushed him a bit and he responded:
"Some riders have expectation mismatch and want to have their 350 transformed into a 450
Stock those bikes put out 35 at the wheel
Your set up will net 46 conformed on the dyno
If your bike starts and runs its a working ecu "
Now I'm more pissed. I also own an FE450. Of COURSE my 350 isn't going to run like a 450, and I don't want it to. The 450 is BRUTAL on power and too much to ride in the tight trees where I ride. But also, hes claiming a 31% increase in power, and that should be at least noticeable. I shouldn't confuse a $1100 ECU setup for a stock ECU.
So anyway, to anyone reading, be warned. F*CK Taco Moto and their marketing hype and complete lack of actual support.
Also, Personally, I think the dial knob for TC would be much better, as I originally thought before Taco Moto convinced me to get the shiny blinky switch, thats practically worthless.
Pit Row
For reference, if anyone is interested, the MAYA programming tuning software license is only $470 (currently) in the USA.
https://www.athena.eu/en-us/maya-programming-software-advanced-licence-P294881.htm
Obviously you would need to have access to a dyno, and there may be some other piece of hardware required, but theres the link to the software.
Taco Moto sent me an email back in like March or April saying there were new maps coming to the Honda bikes for the TACO MOTO SX1 customers… never have heard anything else out of him since then. He also tried to tell me that they were releasing their own custom ground camshaft for all of the enduro bikes in July.. and they haven’t done that either. I don’t understand the appeal of lying to people. It’s just not a good look. Sorry you’re having issues with this company too. They’ve been terrible to deal with.
Rather than talk about a crappy vendor, how about we talk about the product itself?
I recently mounted an SX1 with the map switch and WiFi module to my crf250r. Along with a stainless Yosh system, the bike is noticeably faster and the power is on tap everywhere.
I bought mine from HP race development in Texas. Other than the initial call to ask some questions before buying the product, I’ve had no customer service interaction with him. That said, he was helpful on the phone.
One issue I may be dealing with is the map seems a little lean. It’s hard to tell though, because it only acts lean in cold air when the water temp is under 150F. I might try swapping spark plugs and reading the soot. I’ll post an update if it turns out to be an issue.
Lastly, I chose this over the Vortex because of the WiFi connectivity and included map switch. Having to access the ecu inside the electrics box to make settings changes just isn’t practical on this bike. That may be different on other models. Also having the ability to monitor the bikes sensors and hours is a plus.
Overall, I would recommend the SX1, just make sure you’re comfortable with the tuner. If you don’t care about that, these are also distributed through Parts Unlimited and can be ordered by most dealers, but PU’s inventory seems a little low.
I heard Taco Moto was bad so purchased mine from Rottweiler. Big difference in performance here at 2000 ft.
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