I bought the Kawasaki Calibration Handheld thing to play with the power on my 22 KX450 SR..
I loaded the hard pack map onto the black plug which pulls a bunch of timing.. I noticed at idle and 1st-2nd gear the launch control light is flashing? Is this because its pulling a bunch of timing or is there a setting or issue going on? Once I get into 3rd it turns off..
After starting the bike it seems to start flashing in about 20 seconds.
This is a complete guess but i would imagine that it’s kawis version of traction control by just putting it in launch mode for the hard pack slick track, the launch control will always turn off in 3rd gear which is normal
I am guessing I got something wet or something washing the bike, I switched back to stock map and it still does it ;/
Can this button just be removed as I do not use it?
Ooof that sucks, is it actually constantly blinking or is it giving a diagnostic code? Is there a pattern to it? Idk about removing it, you would probably still have the underlying issue just wouldn’t see the light lol
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non stop blinking until I hit third... I tapped the button a few times and it went back to normal, but then it started again.
My old YZ450F did that, I removed it since I never used it. Try to unplug it and see what happens.
The launch control switch does provide EFI diagnostic codes. You'll find the interpretation in the manual. If not needed for diagnostics (e.g., everything is working the way it should be), then it can be removed. If you remove it, find a way to protect / seal the coupler. I removed the wires from the coupler attached to the switch so I could have both half's of the coupler connected which will enable the coupler to be attached to the mounting point on the frame. Then I put a couple dabs of silicone on it to seal it. If I need to view the diagnostics, I can just reinsert the wires into the coupler.
I would diagnose the issue first, obviously, but if disabling the holeshot button/FI indicator is your prerogative then just insert the white coupler into the harness plug-in: It has same pin orientation and will not hurt a thing. No silicone or hackery needed…
Did you try reloading stock map/undoing what you altered on the FI tool?
Good call on using the white coupler. Where were you a year ago?
So I inspected my button, the rubber boot over the button is tore so I’m guessing its just full of water, no codes, bike still runs perfect. Did not know about the white coupler will give it a go!
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