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I saw on ktm talk some guys had luck turning the adjusters out more than they want to go with the finger adjusters with a screwdriver or something like that. It was in the husky sub forum.
That is odd. The 250 sxf/xcf both get the 42 spring. All of these bikes weigh within a couple pounds of each other and the free and riding sag recommendations are the same. There is no way a given rider will get the same free sag with different springs in bikes with the same linkage that weigh the same.
I was actually just doing that. It does work in that it removes the slop but then it’s also all the way out. My manly size medium hands don’t really reach that super good. It seems like they needed to add material behind the lever in the gap in the second photo which would push the plunger in further without having to move the adjust in so far. I’m going to stop at a shop tomorrow tomorrow and bring my lever because I’m betting they have levers that are slightly different. Some BT bikes the lever feels fine on the showroom but a few will have too much play in them.
I believe the 450sxf is a 45 N/mm, 250 4 strokes are usually sprung lighter.
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For the 3 people who might care about the Braketec issues I found something odd. I had my front brake system off the bike as I had the entire front end off the bike. I was going to bleed the brakes with the caliper above the master to make sure no air bubbles were trapped. I had a new front disk for my second set of wheels so I slid it in between the pads to keep them separated. I noticed immediately that the brake feel was perfect at the lever. So when I put the front end back on I swapped the rotor and now the brakes feel great. The thing is the rotor I bought is about 3.4mm thick where the stock one is about 2.9mm. I’m wondering if they came with different thickness rotors? My stock one says minimum thickness is 2.5mm-what are you guys seeing on your bikes? I'm not sure why exactly the thicker rotor improves feel but I definitely am not an expert in hydraulics. I wonder if maybe I push the pistons out a bit, then put the thinner rotor back on if it will feel the same?
It's not about the weight of the bikes it's about the target audience. KTM assumes younger kids will be riding 250F's and older, heavier vets will be riding 300SX's.
The manual tells which spring to use based on rider weight. It wouldn’t surprise me if they think cc bikes need to be softer than sx bikes but that should be consistent between sx and xc for a 250f of true for a 250 2t.
Pretty sure I rode the big Rainbow loop with you yesterday, I noticed the SXS caliper on your bike.
Andrew
I fully figured it out. Pull the pads out and push the pistons out a bit. Then put it back together and the lever is firm. I had to work it a bit to get them to push out further but finally they broke free.
i'm 200lbs and after 2.5hrs I'm at 105mm and 28mm. I'm good with that. Had to adjust multiple times as spring seemed to settle.
Anyone try a fmf fatty? Difference over stock? Anyone know if you can use the stock silencer? I really like the way the stock one looks and the sound. 1st KTM ive ever owned and I really like the bike. Life long honda guy. Even like the air fork. Seemed pretty good after a couple hours.
I have a factory fatty, and the Ti shorty. The fmf Ti shorty is only a little longer than stock. I did both at once but from what I was told most of the extra power and over rev it gained comes from shape and length of the silencer. That info came directly from the guy who developed the parts,
they wanted to make the silencer as short as the factory but the slightly longer one just made more power everywhere. You can use them separately tho.
Anyone have dyno curves comparing stock to the FMF?
thanks for intel....How you'd you describe the power difference? I really don't want to lose the roll on low end, but I'd like a little more over-rev
Very noticeable power increase everywhere. Especially over rev.
I have a Fatty and the Ti2.1 silencer. Ran the silencer with just the stock pipe and only noticed very minimal increase in topend. Not much. The pipe added power across the board, very noticeable. No loss anywhere IMO.
Hi guys,
thanks for the feeds back about the FMF stuff.
Somebody already tried just the pipe with the stock silencer?
I would be curious to know how works the stock silencer, (even if it seems that its a bit too short!) paired with an aftermarket pipe. (HGS made one as well, I don't know about the other brands)
Plus we have way more chances to damage only the pipe (and so to change it) than to be "obliged" to change the whole system.
Thanks in advance.
I’m still shocked PC hasn’t made anything yet.
Pit Row
No doubt! What is up with that? I have called them a few times and the guy I talked to made it seem like nothing is even in the works.
Map switch removal? Does anybody know for sure what map the bike would revert to if you remove the dumb switch? I’m assuming the aggressive map? I’m not a fan of the big switches especially when one goes straight into my thigh, ripping my pants and bruising my leg. I probably just shouldn’t crash, but I can’t figure that part out.
On last years bike it remembered the last position whether a switch was installed or not. The only way to know is to try it.
That thing looks damn good!
FYI for those interested, the stock head compression tests at around 205psi.
more to follow once I start running a phathead and playing with chambers.
That is incredible to me that they would recommend 91 oct on an engine that makes 205psi..
Agreed. I run a mix to get 95oct
anyone have a suggestion for bar mounts? I'd like around a 10mm riser. Started with my Windham bend and to tall, now tried a Carmichael bend now to low. My first KTM
Anyone had issues when introducing new fuel. I’ve ran t2 in it for the first 15 hours but scored a deal on a jug of c12. I cut it 50/50 with pump 91 @60:1, the more it took over from the t2 the worse it ran. Really blubbery when getting on the throttle right before landing.
straight t2 (so 40:1) or added more straight gas to get it to 60:1?
I'm running 3gal 91 to 2gal c12 @50:1 927 and it runs great. Pulled plug a little darker than I'd normally like but not to rich feeling on the track.
T2 is 105.5 oct and 5.7% oxygenated. Your 50/50 mix is 100 avg and almost non oxygenated. It think it has more to do with the oxy than the octane. Plug pic?
Did an FTR hare scrambles yesterday. Bike worked pretty good for a total MX setup. While doing a deep clean on the bike, I noticed the fuel hose coming from the tank filter, under the seat is rubbing on a plastic bracket that holds a relay. The corner of the plastic brct is sharp and appears to be digging into the fuel hose. Just an FYI… I made a hose protector out of thicker rubber for now but when I remove the tank ai will try a more permanent fix.
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