125/150/250/300 KTM/HUS/GG jetting thread

FGR01
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Fantasy
1/22/2022 5:11pm
FGR01 wrote:
The simple, text-book answer would be from this old "what affects what" notional picture we are all familiar with. Note the difference between what throttle area...
The simple, text-book answer would be from this old "what affects what" notional picture we are all familiar with. Note the difference between what throttle area the straight diameter affects and what the clip position affects. So, in your example, you would be richening the area affected by the diameter while also leaning out the area affected by clip position.

In practice, I'd say most people will notice 1 whole clip change more than they will notice a 1-step change in diameter.

I have about 10-12 of the 6BFY series needles and enjoy experimenting and fine tuning for conditions. It's really nice when you get it right there at the sweet spot and can make it really perfect with 1/2 clip changes, etc.

hylo wrote:
I usually use the needle-chart in my ktm manual. It is an exact copy. The way you explained it made the science behind it make sense...
I usually use the needle-chart in my ktm manual. It is an exact copy. The way you explained it made the science behind it make sense with what I think and feel during jetting. I am good at ‘feeling’ what feels right or wrong (lean or rich), but I’ve never looked much at the area of operation or the needle chart. I usually feel my way to a good jetting and thats it, but never thought much about it. Thank you very much for taking the time.

It is actually pretty funny, when I posted the question I was jetting my bike here at home. A bit of experimenting and a whole lot of curiosity. And I wanted to do it properly, without the feeling of having to hurry to get my fill of track time. The temps here in Norway fluctuate a lot from summer to winter and my bike was jetted in 15C celcius. It is now -5C celcius.
Anyways, I tried the difference between 42-74, 42-75 and 43-75. It was bang on with what you wrote. The difference between 43-75 and 42-74 was minimal, but the bike felt rich with 43-75 around 3/8 throttle pos with third clip. 42-74 felt good but not great. I ended up using 42-75 since 43-75 didnt feel as good. I am now content and happy.

Not sure the neighbours are though. A 250 up and down our street maaaany times. Smile
Oh yes... neighbors love jetting testing ! Laughing
hylo
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1/23/2022 9:50am
FGR01 wrote:
Oh yes... neighbors love jetting testing ! Laughing
Just to make life more difficult I found an oddball on sparepartsfinder.ktm.com for the 250sx.

55431934000 JET NEEDLE ''6GAY69-74''

I get the different taper and that its a 6-series and 2.74 diameter, but 69-74??? Whats the purpose of this odd thing? Must be a VERY rich needle?
opyguy
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1/23/2022 10:11am
Pretty sure that’s a Suzuki needle
I know I used to run the 17-62 needle from an rm125 in my 17 and it ran really good
hylo
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1/23/2022 11:08am Edited Date/Time 1/23/2022 12:16pm
Okay, thanks. Maybe its like the magic NECJ needle was on the ‘15. Something that just works really good. Grinning

But how does it compare to 6BFY43-75 or any other of the 6BFY series? Sorry if this has been discussed time and time again, but the mikuni taper degrees and sec/mins is confusing. Especially so when you dont know where to place it in terms lean or rich from what you already know (6BFY needle chart).

Edit: The 6BFY series is B: 0º 30, F:
1º 30' and Y: 6º 15.

The 6GAY69-74 is G: 1º 45', A: 0º 15' and Y: 6º 15.

I read a bit about tapers and it seems like the G is steeper and A is not as steep as the B. Would this equal a leaner first part and equal last part? The 69 still confuses poor me tho.

The Shop

AJ565
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1/23/2022 3:28pm
hylo wrote:
Okay, thanks. Maybe its like the magic NECJ needle was on the ‘15. Something that just works really good. :lol: But how does it compare to...
Okay, thanks. Maybe its like the magic NECJ needle was on the ‘15. Something that just works really good. Grinning

But how does it compare to 6BFY43-75 or any other of the 6BFY series? Sorry if this has been discussed time and time again, but the mikuni taper degrees and sec/mins is confusing. Especially so when you dont know where to place it in terms lean or rich from what you already know (6BFY needle chart).

Edit: The 6BFY series is B: 0º 30, F:
1º 30' and Y: 6º 15.

The 6GAY69-74 is G: 1º 45', A: 0º 15' and Y: 6º 15.

I read a bit about tapers and it seems like the G is steeper and A is not as steep as the B. Would this equal a leaner first part and equal last part? The 69 still confuses poor me tho.
Maybe it’s for a road race shifter kart. Those are jetted crazy so they live. If you tried to put moto jetting in one it would run well until you got on the straight and that long wide open straight would melt things together really quick.
hylo
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1/23/2022 3:39pm Edited Date/Time 1/23/2022 3:40pm
AJ565 wrote:
Maybe it’s for a road race shifter kart. Those are jetted crazy so they live. If you tried to put moto jetting in one it would...
Maybe it’s for a road race shifter kart. Those are jetted crazy so they live. If you tried to put moto jetting in one it would run well until you got on the straight and that long wide open straight would melt things together really quick.
I guess we’ll find out! I bought it. Couldnt help my self. Laughing

Edit: it is strange that they list it on the fiche for the carb and not in the manual for the bike. Stuff like that makes me crazy curious.
hylo
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1/28/2022 1:36pm Edited Date/Time 1/28/2022 2:45pm
Ok. I might be completely crazy.

I recieved the 6GAY69-74 needle yesterday and put the needle in on 2nd clip just because I am curious. It actually ran pretty good. Rich from 1/2 to 3/4. AS at 1 1/4, 32,5 pilot, 520 main and 5,75’ slide. The spec needs refinement, but it could work.

For some reason I think this needle is odd, but still it actually worked pretty good. This may sound idiotic, but it reminds me a bit of the NECJ needle on the Keihin carburated bikes as in the stock needle series had less taper on the first parts of those needles. The NECJ was thicker and more of the (seemingly) same taper on the entire needle.

Digger or AJ, could you shed some light on this? My experience on needles and tapers isn’t as good as yours and I think (and hope) you guys would have some answers.

RJC3PO
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2/1/2022 4:37pm
Hey all,

I know this is a great resource for tuning the Mikuni, does anyone have the hot ticket for the Keihin?

Thanks!
DuroTools
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2/1/2022 5:00pm
RJC3PO wrote:
Hey all,

I know this is a great resource for tuning the Mikuni, does anyone have the hot ticket for the Keihin?

Thanks!
I have the Stic insert in my Keihin and for some reason in order to jet the bike in most conditions all you need to do is mess with the airscrew. Maybe someone smarter than myself can explain why this is. Regardless it's one of my favorite features because the weather in New England is all over the place and although I'm well practiced at changing jets I still loath doing it but playing with the air screw is obviously super easy.
RJC3PO
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2/3/2022 7:10am
Thanks for the reply Durotools, I'll try adjusting the airscrew.

My bike had the powevalve screwed in a couple turns and it was either all on or all off. I turned the powevalve all the way out and it helped a lot.

I have the sputter around 1/8th throttle, always have, and I am trying to eliminate it.
DuroTools
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2/3/2022 9:53am Edited Date/Time 2/3/2022 9:53am
RJC3PO wrote:
Thanks for the reply Durotools, I'll try adjusting the airscrew. My bike had the powevalve screwed in a couple turns and it was either all on...
Thanks for the reply Durotools, I'll try adjusting the airscrew.

My bike had the powevalve screwed in a couple turns and it was either all on or all off. I turned the powevalve all the way out and it helped a lot.

I have the sputter around 1/8th throttle, always have, and I am trying to eliminate it.
Sorry my post was confusing, only if your Keihin has the STIC insert will the airscrew dial in your carb in most conditions. If you don't have the STIC then yes you will need to mess with changing jets. Seems like with the STIC my bike rides more crisp the further the airscrew is out thats why they come with a special air screw and spring so you can make it looser than you can with the stock airscrew.
2/4/2022 10:03pm
RJC3PO wrote:
Hey all,

I know this is a great resource for tuning the Mikuni, does anyone have the hot ticket for the Keihin?

Thanks!
NECW (rm250, triple taper) for smooth or N3CW (yz250 2 taper) for some punch. The yz needle needs step or two richer on the main then the rm needle.
2/4/2022 10:09pm
The Suzuki RM125 6CHY17-62 needle works very well for me with a 5.5 slide, 35p and 430m

Suzuki P/N - 13383-36FR0
RJC3PO
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2/4/2022 11:51pm
Rad, I'll give it a shot and see how it works out. 🤙🏼
opyguy
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2/5/2022 8:36am
The Suzuki RM125 6CHY17-62 needle works very well for me with a 5.5 slide, 35p and 430m

Suzuki P/N - 13383-36FR0
suspension guy, just confirming the specs (17-62 needle, 5.5 slide) were for the mikuni not the keihn...getting confusing.
I use that needle as well, guys on KTM talk talk about it, works great for mx
d savage
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2/10/2022 12:04am Edited Date/Time 2/10/2022 5:59am
Morning, new to the group and from the UK but have been following this thread and read it back twice but still a little confused, I have a 2021 ktm sx 125 with full fmf and VHM head, I currently run the jd jetting kit but with a 540 main, could somebody please tell me if the jetting specs on the first page would work in the UK around 5-15 Celsius, I am a fast B rider, any help would be much appreciated. Just to add I am pretty new to two strokes hence why I bought the jd jetting kit as I’m a little unsure what to do with jetting
Geky83
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2/15/2022 1:39am
Hi everyone,
I have already written some messages here but I wanted to share with you my experience in jetting on Husky TC 125 2021.
I live in Italy and I use this bike to race in enduro (national championships at a good level) and in enduro it often happens to use the bike in "walking" mode (ie high gears and low gas ...) and when you are here the bike turns out to be excessively rich with bad power delivery.

I have really tried them all (setting, needle, slide and so on ...)
I tried the setting recommended by AJ or DIGGER, but probably with the quality of fuel we have in Europe, with that setting the bike was ever too lean.

I tried various settings with the JD KIT, the bike worked more or less well but at high revs the bike leaned a lot.

In the end I found a setting where the bike works quite well :
max 500
min 45
R8 needle jet
slide 4
needle 6 DEY 15-74 at the third notch - this is the needle that the 2011 Husqvarna CR 125 ( those made in Italy) fitted as stock

With this setting, the power delivery no longer gets "dirty" as before and the bike runs well.

I am happy to have shared my experience with you.
1
A.Vikman
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2/16/2022 12:32pm
d savage wrote:
Morning, new to the group and from the UK but have been following this thread and read it back twice but still a little confused, I...
Morning, new to the group and from the UK but have been following this thread and read it back twice but still a little confused, I have a 2021 ktm sx 125 with full fmf and VHM head, I currently run the jd jetting kit but with a 540 main, could somebody please tell me if the jetting specs on the first page would work in the UK around 5-15 Celsius, I am a fast B rider, any help would be much appreciated. Just to add I am pretty new to two strokes hence why I bought the jd jetting kit as I’m a little unsure what to do with jetting
Hey, how do you find the jd jetting kit with the 540 main? Are you not happy with it?
I’ve tried the settings from the first page.
Think I’ve got a lean bog just before 1/2 throttle, so I’m going to experiment with needle clips and other needles. I did the cut in the #5 slide aswell. I’m new to with jetting 2 strokes, it runs awesome from from idle to wot except the bog, which I think is a lean bog might be the other way around also.
I’m at sea level and and it’s around 32F here at the moment.
TyRod
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2/23/2022 7:28am
Thanks AJ565 & digger for taking the time to set up this jetting post!
I went ahead and modified my slide to a 5.5, notched the front, and installed all new jets as listed on the first page for my 2019 KTM250SX. Fired up the second kick and was nice and crisp, idled good, and had no hesitation when letting idle for a minute and quickly opening throttle. The jet block gasket was deformed as most and replaced that as well. Only took a quick run up the street since the blacktop was wet from raining, but all seemed good going thru the gears, can't wait to hit the track soon if the weather ever clears up around here. May have to mess with the pilot jet at some point (smaller) I think? When turning in the air screw, it didn't almost die when closed. However, It was 50deg and raining when testing yesterday, so it may be ok when it gets above 70, but open to suggestions? For reference I used the 490MJ, 32.5PJ, S4, and 42-75 needle at 52:1 on gas. Thx
1
A.Vikman
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2/28/2022 2:03am
Hey guys, little update here on my KTM sx 150 from 2018 all stock bike.

I do have a bog in midd throttle before it gets going again if I crack the throttle wide open. It's fine if i roll the throttle on. would like to get rid of that bog though, my jetting skills are limited. I have replaced the jet block gasket with the JD one.
Running the following at the moment.

This is at 80 to 100 meters above sea level. (260/330 feet)
0C to 5C or 32F to 40f

MJ 540
PJ 37.5
Needle Jet S4
AS 1.5
slide 5.0 with notch.
Needle 42-74 on the 2nd clip
Needle jet S4
PV at stock setting, whatever that is.
Fuel mix 40:1 with 98 octane pump gas.

What should I try next to get rid of that bog?
I've tried to lower the needle to 3th and 4th clip position and 35 PJ and it ran way to rich on the 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Should I go lower on the PJ and try 3 clip again?

Or go second clip with the 43-74 needle instead, thinks it's a half stop richer that the stock one?

Perhaps go down to a 32.5 PJ as i have #5 slide and notched it and go to 3rd or 4th clip position on the stock needle?

Bike runs overall good with the needle on the second clip position before and when it get passed that midd throttle bog it hauls ass to say the least.

Killed the bike when the bog occurred and the spark plug is whiteish.


All suggestions is more than welcome

Have a great day you guys

wrc777
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Fantasy
2/28/2022 5:59am
A.Vikman wrote:
Hey guys, little update here on my KTM sx 150 from 2018 all stock bike. I do have a bog in midd throttle before it gets...
Hey guys, little update here on my KTM sx 150 from 2018 all stock bike.

I do have a bog in midd throttle before it gets going again if I crack the throttle wide open. It's fine if i roll the throttle on. would like to get rid of that bog though, my jetting skills are limited. I have replaced the jet block gasket with the JD one.
Running the following at the moment.

This is at 80 to 100 meters above sea level. (260/330 feet)
0C to 5C or 32F to 40f

MJ 540
PJ 37.5
Needle Jet S4
AS 1.5
slide 5.0 with notch.
Needle 42-74 on the 2nd clip
Needle jet S4
PV at stock setting, whatever that is.
Fuel mix 40:1 with 98 octane pump gas.

What should I try next to get rid of that bog?
I've tried to lower the needle to 3th and 4th clip position and 35 PJ and it ran way to rich on the 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Should I go lower on the PJ and try 3 clip again?

Or go second clip with the 43-74 needle instead, thinks it's a half stop richer that the stock one?

Perhaps go down to a 32.5 PJ as i have #5 slide and notched it and go to 3rd or 4th clip position on the stock needle?

Bike runs overall good with the needle on the second clip position before and when it get passed that midd throttle bog it hauls ass to say the least.

Killed the bike when the bog occurred and the spark plug is whiteish.


All suggestions is more than welcome

Have a great day you guys

I ran yesterday in the same conditions. 490 my, stock slide 35 pilot, 42-73 in 2nd clip. 3rd and 4th clip are richer than 2nd clip. If you are riding in sand you may need to keep the 540 main but if not try a 500 or 490. I think my 35 pilot was a little too rich but we had ice in the woods parts of the course so it probably helped deaden the response a little.

I would try 500mj / 35 pj and see how that goes. You could try the first clip position too. The other question is are you having a lean bog or is the engine loading up? If you are seeing a big cloud of smoke then it clears out you are too rich. If no smoke you might be too lean in the mid range and need to try a 42-73 or 72 needle. Plug being white (I assume dry?) makes me suspect you are lean.

Also at those temps make sure you have at least the partial radiator cover on the left rad.
A.Vikman
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2/28/2022 6:48am
wrc777 wrote:
I ran yesterday in the same conditions. 490 my, stock slide 35 pilot, 42-73 in 2nd clip. 3rd and 4th clip are richer than 2nd clip...
I ran yesterday in the same conditions. 490 my, stock slide 35 pilot, 42-73 in 2nd clip. 3rd and 4th clip are richer than 2nd clip. If you are riding in sand you may need to keep the 540 main but if not try a 500 or 490. I think my 35 pilot was a little too rich but we had ice in the woods parts of the course so it probably helped deaden the response a little.

I would try 500mj / 35 pj and see how that goes. You could try the first clip position too. The other question is are you having a lean bog or is the engine loading up? If you are seeing a big cloud of smoke then it clears out you are too rich. If no smoke you might be too lean in the mid range and need to try a 42-73 or 72 needle. Plug being white (I assume dry?) makes me suspect you are lean.

Also at those temps make sure you have at least the partial radiator cover on the left rad.
Thanks

If I move the needle to the first clip wouldn't that make it leaner in the mid range?
when I moved the clip to 3rd and 4th clip if I remeber correctly it made the mid range richer and sorted the bog (not sure about this, can't remeber). But made the 1/8 - 1/4 to rich.
Perhaps if I go down to a 32.5 PJ and the clip to 3rd could sort it out? Read somewhere that if you run the #5 slide with the notch it would make the PJ curcuit more efficient so you could run smaller pilots.

Feels like i'm lean in the mid throttle and the spark plug looks white to me. It takes a second or two before a surge of power comes on after the bog

So maybe

Main jet: 490 or 500
Pilot jet: 35 (Or the 32.5 pilot as I've notched the #5 slide to make it more efficient)
Needle: 6BFY42-74 3rd clip (standard needle)

Or

Main jet: 490 or 500
Pilot jet: 35 (Or the 32.5 pilot as I've notched the #5 slide to make it more efficient)
Needle: 6BFY43-74 2nd clip (Would make it a half clip richer?)

Or maybe it need the 35 PJ now in this cold weather and I assume the PJ curcuit has some effect at mid throttle aswell.

Only have those 2 needles at the moment
6BFY42-74 (standard needle)
6BFY43-74 which I think is half clip richer
Should I buy something else?

I have the full radiator cover on the left rad.

wrc777
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Fantasy
2/28/2022 6:59am
I think the 42-71 is the standard needle for 2021-2022. I missed that going a clip richer helped. If so I would try the 3rd clip and try a smaller pilot to see if that gets the 1/8-1/4 livable but ultimately you may need a 42-72 or 71 needle. I think guys with the cut slides are running the 71 needle.
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AJ565
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2/28/2022 11:22am
If it was me I’d leave everything the same as you had it and drop the pilot to a 32.5. If you notched the slide then the pilot circuit if more efficient and needs a smaller pilot or it will be rich.
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A.Vikman
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2/28/2022 11:34am Edited Date/Time 2/28/2022 2:42pm
AJ565 wrote:
If it was me I’d leave everything the same as you had it and drop the pilot to a 32.5. If you notched the slide then...
If it was me I’d leave everything the same as you had it and drop the pilot to a 32.5. If you notched the slide then the pilot circuit if more efficient and needs a smaller pilot or it will be rich.
Would that take care of the bog? though I needed more fuel at 1/2 throttle?
Was thinking that I had to put the needle clip on the third clip and than drop the pilot jet to a 32.5? More fuel to 1/2 throttle and less in the pilot circuit to compensate for the richer needle position which also effects the pilot curcuit somewhat?
And again I’m new to this jetting so i'm just speculating at this point and really appreciate all of you insight and advice.

Best regards
jeffoff
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2/28/2022 2:31pm
AJ565
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3/1/2022 1:14pm
AJ565 wrote:
If it was me I’d leave everything the same as you had it and drop the pilot to a 32.5. If you notched the slide then...
If it was me I’d leave everything the same as you had it and drop the pilot to a 32.5. If you notched the slide then the pilot circuit if more efficient and needs a smaller pilot or it will be rich.
A.Vikman wrote:
Would that take care of the bog? though I needed more fuel at 1/2 throttle? Was thinking that I had to put the needle clip on...
Would that take care of the bog? though I needed more fuel at 1/2 throttle?
Was thinking that I had to put the needle clip on the third clip and than drop the pilot jet to a 32.5? More fuel to 1/2 throttle and less in the pilot circuit to compensate for the richer needle position which also effects the pilot curcuit somewhat?
And again I’m new to this jetting so i'm just speculating at this point and really appreciate all of you insight and advice.

Best regards
The only time the 35 pilot works for me is when it’s in the 30’s out. If I leave it in and run warmer temps I get a hesitation/bog between jumps. There is just too much fuel for the air temps to burn for that split second.
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A.Vikman
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3/1/2022 3:30pm
AJ565 wrote:
The only time the 35 pilot works for me is when it’s in the 30’s out. If I leave it in and run warmer temps I...
The only time the 35 pilot works for me is when it’s in the 30’s out. If I leave it in and run warmer temps I get a hesitation/bog between jumps. There is just too much fuel for the air temps to burn for that split second.
Okey, I though my bog/hesitation was a sign of a lean condition. I will try what you said and allways learning something new.
Will report back after my ride this weekend.

Thanks to both Aj and wrc77


A.Vikman
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3/4/2022 12:54pm
Another update and question.

Ended up with
Main jet: 520
Pilot jet: 32.5
The 43-74 needle at the third clip.
As 1.5
Float height set at 8.3mm
Runs crisp and clean with no hesitations or bog at sea level and around 28-32F in temperature.

Was running the 42-74 needle (standard needle) at 3rd clip and it was better but still bogged when quickly going wot.
So tries 4th clip and it was running rich and remembered that the 43-74 needle was half a clip richer so tried that at 3rd. I’m very pleased and happy with my bike now.

Got a question regarding the power valve, mine was stuck and wasn’t able to turn it at all. So took it apart at it was cross threaded. Must have been from the factory.
Anyways that’s all sorted now and read that some people like it 1.5 to 1.75 turns in. Is that from all the way counter clockwise to the “hard stop” or is it from flush with the case? I did not check where is was before I took it apart. So I don’t know the “standard” setting.
Hard stop or flush with the case?

Best regards
AJ565
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3/4/2022 1:20pm
A.Vikman wrote:
Another update and question. Ended up with Main jet: 520 Pilot jet: 32.5 The 43-74 needle at the third clip. As 1.5 Float height set at...
Another update and question.

Ended up with
Main jet: 520
Pilot jet: 32.5
The 43-74 needle at the third clip.
As 1.5
Float height set at 8.3mm
Runs crisp and clean with no hesitations or bog at sea level and around 28-32F in temperature.

Was running the 42-74 needle (standard needle) at 3rd clip and it was better but still bogged when quickly going wot.
So tries 4th clip and it was running rich and remembered that the 43-74 needle was half a clip richer so tried that at 3rd. I’m very pleased and happy with my bike now.

Got a question regarding the power valve, mine was stuck and wasn’t able to turn it at all. So took it apart at it was cross threaded. Must have been from the factory.
Anyways that’s all sorted now and read that some people like it 1.5 to 1.75 turns in. Is that from all the way counter clockwise to the “hard stop” or is it from flush with the case? I did not check where is was before I took it apart. So I don’t know the “standard” setting.
Hard stop or flush with the case?

Best regards
All the way out until it stops then screw it back in.
1

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