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I need to get on Brad460s level. Do you cut with a Scagg that has a stripe kit?
Next cut I will do that!
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One advice I always give everyone- I typically cut on the highest deck setting and keep the grass as long as I can.
Fleet Farm fertilizer and Amine 2 4-D for the weed killer.
And this is from our old house:
I want the instant reward of seeing stripes behind my Ferris like you get when you slap a new pipe on a 2 stroke.
So then I compromise with a Gravley, but now I think I’m gonna sell my Gravley and just go by the tiger and tell her I got it on sale like it you know how she gets purses and shoes on sale. Because those Skaggs throw down some beautiful stripes.
My Next machine will be the 72in scagg. That extra 12 inches cuts down on a lot of passes on all my acreage and makes the stripes beefier.
This stripe-shit is a wierd satisfying addiction. Can’t get enough of it.
I went back and forth between a riding mower and a zero-turn. Ultimately I went with a riding mower because I don’t have a ton of trees to go around and so no real need for a zero-turn. I like to sit back and relax while I cut.
The only thing I don’t like is that it has dual fuel tanks, but instead of a simple hose to transfer fuel evenly between the two, it has a petcock to select which tank you want to pull from. So at some point you’ve got an empty tank on one side and a full tank on the other, and the weight imbalance can cause traction issues on hills. I don’t think it’s anything to cause a safety issue, just annoying to have one tire spinning and not being able to flip around and go the direction you want. I’ve just learned to switch tanks about halfway through mowing. Other than that, it’s a solid. Also came with the flat free front tires that don’t take any air.
Finding the right variety was a little difficult but I chose Goodland for its cold-hardiness (we are zone 4a-b on our side of town but zone 3 in other parts of the city), early fruiting, large fruit and large harvest.
This is the first fruit tree in our yard and I’m really excited!
Pit Row
https://youtu.be/S_0V8O7Rh50
Unless it needs some leveling, you can probably just reseed, but it does look like it could use some aeration so tilling isn't a terrible idea.
However if you have the time to dedicate to it, I would spray glyphosate, wait for it to start turning brown and dying then mow it really low. After that, lightly water for about 5 minutes, 3-5 times a day for 2 weeks. This will get any remaining weed seeds in the soil to germinate. Once you start seeing some green in the yard, then you can hit it with a 2nd round of glyphosate to wipe out all the new weeds. This process of watering, growing, killing is called fallowing and it’s really good to get down to clean slate before planting your new grass. When you buy new seed, look at the tag and look for 0% weeds and 0% other crop. Many will say .01% weeds/other crop. This doesn’t seem like much, but when you figure there are probably 2 million seeds in a bag, .01% is 20,000 weed seeds you’re throwing on your lawn.
I got the rack that went on the back over the engine, it's great for a cooler or a 30 gallon spot sprayer.
I ended up mowing about 20 plus acres of pasture with the zero turn and it was no problem and came out unexpectedly amazing looking but now it came back so beautiful and thick that the zero turn is struggling and i don't want to take forever mowing so I got the flail. I may need a big bush hog too soon if the flail doesn't perform. It should though.
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