2017 250sx surges when put in gear

JWalkowiak951
Edited Date/Time 5/14/2020 5:46pm
As the title says when I start my 17 250sx and after it warms up I put it in gear it surges and will stall. If I keep the rpms up and put it in gear it will stay running but will start to creep. Also when I come to a stop the bike will stall unless I bring the rpms back up. Haven’t tried anything yet as this is my first pumpkin so I wanted to ask before I start tinkering. thanks in advance for any advice.
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CarlinoJoeVideo
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CarlinoJoeVideo 4/27/2020 12:21pm
4/27/2020 12:21pm
First, you can try to bleed/change the fluid in your clutch...

Check the clutch basket for grooves... If grooved replace it.

Have you ever changed the clutch friction plates or steels? Most likely scenario...

Then, I have replaced the push rod that goes from the clutch slave to clutch.

One of those or all of them combined should fix it.
1
JWalkowiak951 4/27/2020 12:37pm
4/27/2020 12:37pm
CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:
First, you can try to bleed/change the fluid in your clutch... Check the clutch basket for grooves... If grooved replace it. Have you ever changed the...
First, you can try to bleed/change the fluid in your clutch...

Check the clutch basket for grooves... If grooved replace it.

Have you ever changed the clutch friction plates or steels? Most likely scenario...

Then, I have replaced the push rod that goes from the clutch slave to clutch.

One of those or all of them combined should fix it.
Thanks for the reply. I will try bleeding the clutch and check the basket for the normal wear marks. I have not changed the fibers or steels in it. As far as replacement fibers/steels is there a certain brand that’s better than the rest. I’ve always replaced with oem on my other bikes.
CarlinoJoeVideo
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CarlinoJoeVideo 4/27/2020 3:32pm
4/27/2020 3:32pm
CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:
First, you can try to bleed/change the fluid in your clutch... Check the clutch basket for grooves... If grooved replace it. Have you ever changed the...
First, you can try to bleed/change the fluid in your clutch...

Check the clutch basket for grooves... If grooved replace it.

Have you ever changed the clutch friction plates or steels? Most likely scenario...

Then, I have replaced the push rod that goes from the clutch slave to clutch.

One of those or all of them combined should fix it.
JWalkowiak951 wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I will try bleeding the clutch and check the basket for the normal wear marks. I have not changed the fibers or...
Thanks for the reply. I will try bleeding the clutch and check the basket for the normal wear marks. I have not changed the fibers or steels in it. As far as replacement fibers/steels is there a certain brand that’s better than the rest. I’ve always replaced with oem on my other bikes.
OEM is fine. Super easy to do.

I’m guessing a combination of worn out plates/fibers and old clutch fluid is your problem.

How many hours on the bike?
JWalkowiak951 4/27/2020 7:31pm
4/27/2020 7:31pm
CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:
OEM is fine. Super easy to do. I’m guessing a combination of worn out plates/fibers and old clutch fluid is your problem. How many hours on...
OEM is fine. Super easy to do.

I’m guessing a combination of worn out plates/fibers and old clutch fluid is your problem.

How many hours on the bike?
Around 35 hours on it.

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DynoDan22
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DynoDan22 4/27/2020 9:07pm
4/27/2020 9:07pm
The 17 250sx has the steel clutch basket. It would take an act of God to groove your clutch basket. I highly doubt your clutch is smoked at 35hrs. I think you meant to say your bike "lunges" forward not surges. If so, I'd bet your clutch needs to be bled as you are not getting full throw from the master cylinder and the plates aren't separating enough to disengage. Take the oil filler cap off and watch the plates separate as you pull the clutch lever all the way in. You should see the pressure plate move outboard at least 2.5-3mm.

To bleed your clutch, take the top reservoir cap off and adjust your clutch lever all the way out to ensure you get full throw. You'll turn the black plastic adjuster all the way in to do this. You must keep the fluid level above the white plastic "bubble" at the bottom of the reservoir at all time or else you will just suck air into the system. Pull the clutch lever all the way in and HOLD it against the bar. Using a 7mm wrench, crack the bleeder on the master cylinder at least a quarter turn and quickly tighten it. Now you can release the clutch lever. "Blip" the clutch lever for about 10 seconds and you will see the air bubbles come up out. You will also see the fluid in the reservoir drop quite a bit. Keep it topped off and repeat until you don't see any more air bubbles come up. Refill the resevoir to 5mm below the top surface and replace the top cap/rubber diaphragm.
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AJ565
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AJ565 4/28/2020 6:24am
4/28/2020 6:24am
By any chance are you running an aftermarket clutch lever? Like ARC perhaps?
JWalkowiak951 4/28/2020 3:17pm
4/28/2020 3:17pm
Thanks DynoDan for the reply I will give it a try. No aftermarket levers just stock levers. Good to know though because I was considering a set of arc’s
Wolfey
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Wolfey 4/28/2020 5:28pm
4/28/2020 5:28pm
AJ565 wrote:
By any chance are you running an aftermarket clutch lever? Like ARC perhaps?
I’m confused.. Why do the ARC levers cause this?
AJ565
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AJ565 4/28/2020 6:39pm
4/28/2020 6:39pm
AJ565 wrote:
By any chance are you running an aftermarket clutch lever? Like ARC perhaps?
Wolfey wrote:
I’m confused.. Why do the ARC levers cause this?
Don’t know, I rode a guys sx125 that had them and it wouldn’t fully disengage the clutch when pulled in with one or two fingers and I couldn’t get it adjusted not to do it. Put the stock lever back on and no more clutch drag.
Factor E
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Factor E 4/29/2020 7:36pm
4/29/2020 7:36pm
need new clutch pack even at 35 hrs Everyone uses it different from the next guy
JWalkowiak951 4/30/2020 9:17am
4/30/2020 9:17am
So I bled the master cylinder and that has fixed the problem with it lunging forward when I put it in gear. It still does it somewhat when I come to a stop I can still feel the clutch dragging a bit but as soon as I blip the throttle it frees up the clutch and I can stop then and it doesn’t want to creep. The fluid was kind of dirty in my opinion. So I’m going to do a full flush/bleed out. And I will try again. Hard to judge if it’s working up to Complete spec on my 3/4 acre propert. But hopefully in two weeks when the local track is opening up I can give it a shot! If that doesn’t seem to fix it new steels/fibers it is! This was my pit crew helping me keep it clean the other day.
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DynoDan22
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DynoDan22 4/30/2020 10:16am
4/30/2020 10:16am
Good to hear. If you noticed an improvement, that's not than likely the culprit (air in system and not getting full throw). I would try to bleed it again and see if you get more air bubbles to come up. Good luck!
mwssquad827
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mwssquad827 4/30/2020 5:10pm
4/30/2020 5:10pm
AJ565 wrote:
By any chance are you running an aftermarket clutch lever? Like ARC perhaps?
Wolfey wrote:
I’m confused.. Why do the ARC levers cause this?
AJ565 wrote:
Don’t know, I rode a guys sx125 that had them and it wouldn’t fully disengage the clutch when pulled in with one or two fingers and...
Don’t know, I rode a guys sx125 that had them and it wouldn’t fully disengage the clutch when pulled in with one or two fingers and I couldn’t get it adjusted not to do it. Put the stock lever back on and no more clutch drag.
I have arc levers and I can get my tc 250 clutch on point...
JWalkowiak951 5/14/2020 5:46pm
5/14/2020 5:46pm Edited Date/Time 5/14/2020 5:59pm
Finally got to ride the bike! So the bike doesn’t creep when put in gear anymore. But when I pull the clutch in coming into a tight corner I notice it’s still dragging. A quick blip of the throttle and all is well. I bled the system again and got some more air bubbles (pre ride). I’m going to replace the clutch just for the piece of mind. Between the Hinson fsc kit and the ktm oem kit. does anyone here have any pros/cons between the two? $50 isn’t breaking the bank on my decision.
CarlinoJoeVideo
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CarlinoJoeVideo 5/14/2020 6:27pm
5/14/2020 6:27pm
JWalkowiak951 wrote:
Finally got to ride the bike! So the bike doesn’t creep when put in gear anymore. But when I pull the clutch in coming into a...
Finally got to ride the bike! So the bike doesn’t creep when put in gear anymore. But when I pull the clutch in coming into a tight corner I notice it’s still dragging. A quick blip of the throttle and all is well. I bled the system again and got some more air bubbles (pre ride). I’m going to replace the clutch just for the piece of mind. Between the Hinson fsc kit and the ktm oem kit. does anyone here have any pros/cons between the two? $50 isn’t breaking the bank on my decision.
I had problems with the ARC levers, same problem. Not everyone has the problem though. I went back to stock levers.

I like Hinson clutch, great people that stand behind their product. They have always picked up the phone for me to help with questions.

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