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Close up Pictures make them look huge but what are they about 1.5 long by 3/8? How many hours did it take the printer to make them?
Looking forward to the wheels! And clamps are in the works, but it might take a few months!
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Faster USA hubs laced to Excel A60s. This is one area where we're sacrificing a weight increase in favor of performance and longevity. Stock wheels are really light, but these are a lot stronger and stiffer. They've also got an extra bearing on the rear drive-side to beef things up some. We've run Faster USA wheelsets on our last 4 shop bikes and have never had a problem; we've never even had to touch them with a spoke wrench, everything has stayed tight as new!
Once the tires were mounted we threw on a set of Motostuff rotors and Renthal sprocket (49T) with titanium bolts for both. Rotors are a bit lighter than stock on the rear and about the same weight up front, but that's also oversized at 280mm. Holding these wheels to the rest the bike are titanium axles with axle blocks made in house.
Since you have been talking weight savings did you get a chance to weigh any of the different tire options before selecting those? I lost over 2 lbs going from Dunlop’s to Pirelli!
I can’t find the rear pics but here is the front. 1.25 lbs just for the front alone. IIRC the rear was the about the same if not more.
Also talon rear sprockets are lighter than Renthal
The rocker arm comes with steel buckets on the shock pivot and I couldn't just leave those stock! So I machined up some titanium replacements. Not a huge weight savings, but it's there and matches all the other Ti hardware nicely:
The Dal Soggio inserts are red, which won't match my color scheme at all, so obviously I have to remove those, strip them, and re-anodize.
Here's the interference:
The fixture to hold them to the machine:
The freshly cut adjuster:
Plenty of clearance now:
Pit Row
Milling 5 at once for the first setup:
Forgot a picture of the second setup, but that one drilled and tapped the set-screw holes up top. Here is the third (and final) milling setup after the run was complete:
Here it is on our Husqvarna. We designed this to be as large as possible so it would be possible to turn it by hand. It's a little tough to turn, but still very doable:
CAD model representative of the finished product:
(Side note-anyone have them for the KYB stuff)
Since these are all off, we knocked off the casting lines and cleaned them up a bit, then blasted them. These will go off for hard anodize (black), which will match the engine mounts we already did.
The raw billet stock starts out like this, there's a lot of material to remove!
For the most part the covers follow the same process. Here's the ignition cover: we machine the first setup in a "standard" vice:
Next the part is flipped over, but it's no longer a nice square surface. So we have to machine a special set of soft-jaws to hold onto it:
For the ignition cover in particular, clamping it in the soft jaws will distort it and you wont get a proper cut as it will relax once you remove it from the vice. So we have to make yet another part to sit inside of the cover to stiffen it up in the vice:
Here it is after machining the second setup:
Setup 1:
Setup 2:
The clutch cover takes three setups. Here's setup 1:
Setup 2:
And finally setup 3 for the oil fill port. This takes another angled fixture:
As you've probably noticed, it takes a few custom parts (fixtures) in order to make the part your interested in. Add this to design time, programming time, material costs, anodize costs, etc. and you can better understand why one-off part costs are so expensive! Or why no companies are really chomping at the bit to make your 1996 CR125 ignition cover (or substitute whatever random part you'd like here).
Here are all three covers (well, 6 really, top and bottom of each) machined up and ready for anodize. These went off today and will be ready to go next week:
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