Show us your 2017 crf450

Bennett59
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Bennett59 12/17/2018 8:12pm
12/17/2018 8:12pm
hubbardmx50 wrote:
Love this thread! Almost two years later and still So many nice bikes, even bone stock with valving I love my 17. Picked up a 50t...
Love this thread! Almost two years later and still So many nice bikes, even bone stock with valving I love my 17. Picked up a 50t sprocket last week but I didn't get to ride with it yet. Also removed front muffler bolts and the gas tank bolts so I'll have a couple new things to test.

@Bennett59 Glad to hear you fixed your bike, I've heard of a few 17-18's having issues with the kill switch.
Bennett59 wrote:
I’ve only done the tank bolts, I’m curious on trying those Fcp mounts I have a set of 18s on it now
hubbardmx50 wrote:
Same here I'm hoping to actually notice something with both sets of bolts absent but we'll see. How much are the FCP mounts?
Front ti $129
229 for the other two plus 10 for shipping is what they told me
racerray909
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racerray909 12/17/2018 8:22pm
12/17/2018 8:22pm
Bennett59 wrote:
I’ve only done the tank bolts, I’m curious on trying those Fcp mounts I have a set of 18s on it now
hubbardmx50 wrote:
Same here I'm hoping to actually notice something with both sets of bolts absent but we'll see. How much are the FCP mounts?
Bennett59 wrote:
Front ti $129
229 for the other two plus 10 for shipping is what they told me
Yeah they are expensive. I’ll be at GH on Thursday if you want to try my bike.
Starky427
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Starky427 12/24/2018 6:03am
12/24/2018 6:03am
Anyone on this thread interested in a vortex ignition for a 17-18?
1
quadzrulebro 12/24/2018 2:58pm
12/24/2018 2:58pm Edited Date/Time 12/24/2018 3:22pm
I just picked up this beauty from a dealer. It was a trade in on a works edition. I got it for less than half the price of a new one. The dealer installed the hour meter when they sold it new in 2017. It only had 19.8 hours on it! There was seriously not a single scratch on the plastic. It had the stock chain and sprocket. The back tire was only worn down the center, so I’m guessing most of those 20 hours were spent popping wheelies on dirt roads. Rekluse Radius CX clutch (once you’ve owned one, you realize it’s like cheating) and a Dirt Star sprocket set with O-ring chain (here in the Midwest, the dirt is so tacky I wear out chain and sprocket sets quicker than tires!) Has a single side FMF exhaust, and as soon as I got it I sent the suspension to FC for the revalve and respring. They talked me into buying the link, too. I put on the 2018 engine hangers as well. I can’t wait until the weather breaks so I can spin some laps.
This is actually my 2nd ‘17, but it was so new and so cheap, I had to buy it!
4

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racerray909
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racerray909 12/25/2018 12:03pm
12/25/2018 12:03pm
Preping the Bike for the last ride of 2018. Private ride day at LACR with the Proride crew
2
hubbardmx50
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hubbardmx50 12/25/2018 2:53pm
12/25/2018 2:53pm
Well if anyone cares I had great success testing the gas tank/muffler bolts mod and 50t sprocket in two days of riding at gh last week. I don't know why I didn't try this earlier. I could actually feel the frame and the suspension working together through the big braking bumps and not fighting each other and I wasn't getting as tired and no arm pump. The 50 tooth sprocket works great, shifting down in tight turns is now a suggestion and not something I need to do to keep the bike from stalling. Definitely want to try drilling my motor mounts next.
racerray909
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racerray909 12/25/2018 2:57pm
12/25/2018 2:57pm
hubbardmx50 wrote:
Well if anyone cares I had great success testing the gas tank/muffler bolts mod and 50t sprocket in two days of riding at gh last week...
Well if anyone cares I had great success testing the gas tank/muffler bolts mod and 50t sprocket in two days of riding at gh last week. I don't know why I didn't try this earlier. I could actually feel the frame and the suspension working together through the big braking bumps and not fighting each other and I wasn't getting as tired and no arm pump. The 50 tooth sprocket works great, shifting down in tight turns is now a suggestion and not something I need to do to keep the bike from stalling. Definitely want to try drilling my motor mounts next.
The soft motor mounts work great. I highly suggest them
rpm.15
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rpm.15 12/26/2018 1:50pm
12/26/2018 1:50pm
Starky427 wrote:
Anyone on this thread interested in a vortex ignition for a 17-18? [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/12/24/312715/s1200_2ED7747A_70CA_4769_9F14_48AFFEDEF471.jpg[/img]
Anyone on this thread interested in a vortex ignition for a 17-18?
How much do you want for it.
Bennett59
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Bennett59 1/2/2019 8:05am
1/2/2019 8:05am
How many hours is most going before opening up motor
Bennett59
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Bennett59 4/20/2019 4:35pm
4/20/2019 4:35pm
Well I went ahead went for a rebuild at 52 hours and I’m glad I did, last time I rode it I swore I felt a vibration and a tick after going a quarter of a lap so I brought it in pulled the motor oil looked good no shavings 17 Crf450R

vitalriderCrf
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vitalriderCrf 6/10/2019 4:42pm
6/10/2019 4:42pm
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
Bennett59
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Bennett59 6/10/2019 7:10pm
6/10/2019 7:10pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it was reworked and with the link 2.5mm I believe was what I was at. I had to have a top end and rebuilt and the decompressior broke off at 53hrs, only issues beside that was the kill switch getting water in it, I always taped a bag over it to prevent that from happening again.
nascarnate326
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nascarnate326 6/10/2019 7:32pm
6/10/2019 7:32pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
Mine has 44 hours and is solid still. I don’t get to ride as much as I used to Sad
vitalriderCrf
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vitalriderCrf 6/10/2019 7:32pm
6/10/2019 7:32pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
Bennett59 wrote:
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it...
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it was reworked and with the link 2.5mm I believe was what I was at. I had to have a top end and rebuilt and the decompressior broke off at 53hrs, only issues beside that was the kill switch getting water in it, I always taped a bag over it to prevent that from happening again.
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common issue on the Honda’s. Forks and shock are valved and sprung for me with stock link arm, I’m currently running the forks in between he top cap and stock line which is considered 2.5mm I believe. This setup has worked for me for awhile now but I’m thinking about sliding them back down to the bottom line because I keep getting stood up in tight turns. But maybe I just need to set my sag as my weight is always changing depending on how many brews and tacos I had the week before, lol!
Bennett59
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Bennett59 6/10/2019 7:41pm
6/10/2019 7:41pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
Bennett59 wrote:
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it...
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it was reworked and with the link 2.5mm I believe was what I was at. I had to have a top end and rebuilt and the decompressior broke off at 53hrs, only issues beside that was the kill switch getting water in it, I always taped a bag over it to prevent that from happening again.
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common...
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common issue on the Honda’s. Forks and shock are valved and sprung for me with stock link arm, I’m currently running the forks in between he top cap and stock line which is considered 2.5mm I believe. This setup has worked for me for awhile now but I’m thinking about sliding them back down to the bottom line because I keep getting stood up in tight turns. But maybe I just need to set my sag as my weight is always changing depending on how many brews and tacos I had the week before, lol!
My sag I ran at 105mm, sometimes it can be handlebar bend can throw some stuff off also I run Mika Metals bars but I run MCGrath bend I played back and forth with rc and cr high high also but the more flat bar with slight pull felt better in corners for me. Did they take the plate out in the rear shock? Some ppl will run the link or some suspension companies will achieve the same result by changing things inside also.
vitalriderCrf
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vitalriderCrf 6/10/2019 7:41pm
6/10/2019 7:41pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
nascarnate326 wrote:
Mine has 44 hours and is solid still. I don’t get to ride as much as I used to Sad
Sorry to hear, sounds like your a little ways away from having worrying about valves yet. I’m at 90 hours so I’m just wondering if anyone else has had to do anything.
racerray909
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racerray909 6/10/2019 7:44pm
6/10/2019 7:44pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Has anyone had to shim valves or send the head out for seat job? Also, where is everybody running their forks at in the clamps?
135 hours still runs good.
2
vitalriderCrf
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vitalriderCrf 6/10/2019 7:57pm
6/10/2019 7:57pm
Bennett59 wrote:
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it...
Your suspension stock or re worked? I’ve since moved on to Yamaha but my Honda I was running I believe 5mm in forks and after it was reworked and with the link 2.5mm I believe was what I was at. I had to have a top end and rebuilt and the decompressior broke off at 53hrs, only issues beside that was the kill switch getting water in it, I always taped a bag over it to prevent that from happening again.
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common...
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common issue on the Honda’s. Forks and shock are valved and sprung for me with stock link arm, I’m currently running the forks in between he top cap and stock line which is considered 2.5mm I believe. This setup has worked for me for awhile now but I’m thinking about sliding them back down to the bottom line because I keep getting stood up in tight turns. But maybe I just need to set my sag as my weight is always changing depending on how many brews and tacos I had the week before, lol!
Bennett59 wrote:
My sag I ran at 105mm, sometimes it can be handlebar bend can throw some stuff off also I run Mika Metals bars but I run...
My sag I ran at 105mm, sometimes it can be handlebar bend can throw some stuff off also I run Mika Metals bars but I run MCGrath bend I played back and forth with rc and cr high high also but the more flat bar with slight pull felt better in corners for me. Did they take the plate out in the rear shock? Some ppl will run the link or some suspension companies will achieve the same result by changing things inside also.
Which plate are you referring to exactly? I’ve had the shock apart for service but didn’t look for anything like that.

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Bennett59
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Bennett59 6/10/2019 8:11pm
6/10/2019 8:11pm
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common...
Good info thanks, and yeah saw your post above sorry to see you had issues with the decomp. It seems to be somewhat of a common issue on the Honda’s. Forks and shock are valved and sprung for me with stock link arm, I’m currently running the forks in between he top cap and stock line which is considered 2.5mm I believe. This setup has worked for me for awhile now but I’m thinking about sliding them back down to the bottom line because I keep getting stood up in tight turns. But maybe I just need to set my sag as my weight is always changing depending on how many brews and tacos I had the week before, lol!
Bennett59 wrote:
My sag I ran at 105mm, sometimes it can be handlebar bend can throw some stuff off also I run Mika Metals bars but I run...
My sag I ran at 105mm, sometimes it can be handlebar bend can throw some stuff off also I run Mika Metals bars but I run MCGrath bend I played back and forth with rc and cr high high also but the more flat bar with slight pull felt better in corners for me. Did they take the plate out in the rear shock? Some ppl will run the link or some suspension companies will achieve the same result by changing things inside also.
vitalriderCrf wrote:
Which plate are you referring to exactly? I’ve had the shock apart for service but didn’t look for anything like that.
I can not remember exactly Factory Connection does all my stuff, and first time I had it valved they took a part out then the second time after the bike had been out for awhile they had a new setup for it. With different setup and and link so when I sent it back they said if I still had the parts from the first time to send those back with it because they put this piece back in it and he referred to as a plate or certain kind of shim.
motoracer downunder 6/10/2019 8:32pm
6/10/2019 8:32pm
90 well done , sell it ! Lol I moved on in 2017 30 hrs tranny went . I loved the bike and the 19 must be real good now . Ktm in my blood now. Honda was a good bike , was comfortable early and motor was good . Only changed due to tranny at 30 . I did get looked after and put 15 hrs on a 2nd one but I could not trust them and went 18 blue before ktm.
vitalriderCrf
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vitalriderCrf 6/10/2019 9:37pm
6/10/2019 9:37pm
motoracer downunder wrote:
90 well done , sell it ! Lol I moved on in 2017 30 hrs tranny went . I loved the bike and the 19 must...
90 well done , sell it ! Lol I moved on in 2017 30 hrs tranny went . I loved the bike and the 19 must be real good now . Ktm in my blood now. Honda was a good bike , was comfortable early and motor was good . Only changed due to tranny at 30 . I did get looked after and put 15 hrs on a 2nd one but I could not trust them and went 18 blue before ktm.
Haha, I’ll probably keep it for two more years and put 30 more hours on it before I do a piston and send the head out to be inspected. Such a good bike I love it. Yeah I saw your Posts from awhile back that’s a bummer you had transmission issues. I didn’t see anyone else in this thread have any though so I’m not too worried.
nate1001
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nate1001 6/11/2019 4:45am
6/11/2019 4:45am
256hrs and counting. Valves still in spec. New top end at around 225hrs. Most likely wait until 400hrs to do bottom end.
10
vitalriderCrf
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vitalriderCrf 10/16/2022 4:18pm
10/16/2022 4:18pm
Sorry to bring back a super old thread, but what gearing are you guys running on this bike? I'm just on the stock 13/49 and when I exit tight turns to hit a jump I'm having to short shift or hit the clutch. This bike has always been a bit sluggish first half turn of throttle, then the power hits hard as hell and just takes off and revs to the moon. Kind of like a car with a turbo. I'm also on the stock 2017 mapping, never messed with the black box. Could a remap clean this up and give a more smooth linear power off the bottom? Thanks.

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