97 rm125 first bike HELP!!

Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
Edited Date/Time 10/5/2019 10:09am
This is my first bike i think it runs fine right now its pretty quick but doesnt idle. I havent done much digging yet but My brakes are shot my master cylinders are stripped, the piston is stuck for the back brake caliper. The rear master cylinder gaurd is screwed tight and i can't get it off. That small black spot of oil drips from where the head pipe mee ts the cyclinder after about 10 minutes of running it thats that drips but not immediately.



So right now im thinking of replacing the top end,master cylinders, rims(current is bent) , front rotor, chain and sprockets and a caliper rebuild? If i dont replace them?

Is there anyway i can check the condition of the bottom end without tearing into it?



|
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/27/2018 3:55pm
I'll appreciate any help and advice fix the problems above and to possibly find any other problems. Thanks
4/28/2018 8:37am
Madmack wrote:
I'll appreciate any help and advice fix the problems above and to possibly find any other problems. Thanks
If the rest of the bike is as beat as you describe, you can be certain it needs main bearings/seals/rod replaced. If you don't bite the bullet and do the bottom end it WILL blow up on you. Not a question of if, but when
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/28/2018 11:19am
If the rest of the bike is as beat as you describe, you can be certain it needs main bearings/seals/rod replaced. If you don't bite the...
If the rest of the bike is as beat as you describe, you can be certain it needs main bearings/seals/rod replaced. If you don't bite the bullet and do the bottom end it WILL blow up on you. Not a question of if, but when
Is that all the bottom end would need? If so how much is it for parts and labor for the bottom end? I'm capable of doing the top end myself . And how would I fix the rear brake piston since it's stuck?
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/28/2018 11:43am
Was 500 a good buy for this? If not I might just sell it.

The Shop

4/28/2018 2:35pm
Probably have another grand in it before all the rough spots are ironed out.
4/28/2018 2:48pm
You can check the rod bearing with a dial indicator gauge through the spark plug hole and by turning the flywheel slowly. If the gauge hesitates before moving, there is play in some of the bearings.

Easiest thing would be to buy a completel Wiseco or Wrench Rabbit rebuild kit and have the crankshaft trued by a professional before installation.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/28/2018 3:30pm
You can check the rod bearing with a dial indicator gauge through the spark plug hole and by turning the flywheel slowly. If the gauge hesitates...
You can check the rod bearing with a dial indicator gauge through the spark plug hole and by turning the flywheel slowly. If the gauge hesitates before moving, there is play in some of the bearings.

Easiest thing would be to buy a completel Wiseco or Wrench Rabbit rebuild kit and have the crankshaft trued by a professional before installation.
Im just going to do the bottom end the previous owner didn't even do the top end 1 time . I have a friend that said they would do it for 350. Are you talking about the crank? It needs to be trued even when it's new? Also what about my brake caliper piston being stuck does it need to be rebuilt?
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/28/2018 3:33pm
Probably have another grand in it before all the rough spots are ironed out.
Is it worth the extra grand? And how could I get to the rear master cylinder since that gaurd is on waaayyyy too tight
4/28/2018 4:02pm
Probably going to battle many stuck / frozen components on the bike. Soak the back side of the guard screws with some PB blaster. Do it a few times and let it sit. If the head of the screw is not boogered and will still hold an allen wrench snugly, use a hand impact, and give it a couple of good raps .

If that does not do it, you may be able to catch the edge of the screws with a sharp chisel, and use a few hammer raps to try and break the screws loose. Soak the caliper. You may be able to put a grease gun on the bleed fitting, with the bleeder cracked open, and pump it full of grease. It may push the piston out, unless it is too solidly corroded.

Brake fluid is a moisture magnet, sticks things hard, especially after years of sitting.
4/28/2018 4:55pm
You can check the rod bearing with a dial indicator gauge through the spark plug hole and by turning the flywheel slowly. If the gauge hesitates...
You can check the rod bearing with a dial indicator gauge through the spark plug hole and by turning the flywheel slowly. If the gauge hesitates before moving, there is play in some of the bearings.

Easiest thing would be to buy a completel Wiseco or Wrench Rabbit rebuild kit and have the crankshaft trued by a professional before installation.
Madmack wrote:
Im just going to do the bottom end the previous owner didn't even do the top end 1 time . I have a friend that said...
Im just going to do the bottom end the previous owner didn't even do the top end 1 time . I have a friend that said they would do it for 350. Are you talking about the crank? It needs to be trued even when it's new? Also what about my brake caliper piston being stuck does it need to be rebuilt?
Typically it’s best to have it checked and trued if needed. A lot of people buy the kits and throw them in, they blow up, and then blame the kits, which is true, but could have been avoided.
1
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/28/2018 5:52pm
Probably going to battle many stuck / frozen components on the bike. Soak the back side of the guard screws with some PB blaster. Do it...
Probably going to battle many stuck / frozen components on the bike. Soak the back side of the guard screws with some PB blaster. Do it a few times and let it sit. If the head of the screw is not boogered and will still hold an allen wrench snugly, use a hand impact, and give it a couple of good raps .

If that does not do it, you may be able to catch the edge of the screws with a sharp chisel, and use a few hammer raps to try and break the screws loose. Soak the caliper. You may be able to put a grease gun on the bleed fitting, with the bleeder cracked open, and pump it full of grease. It may push the piston out, unless it is too solidly corroded.

Brake fluid is a moisture magnet, sticks things hard, especially after years of sitting.
I'll give that a try I have to get the pb blaster and fund everything else for the bike I didn't expect to spend this much. Also the piston is already stuck out I don't know if you seen that in the pic.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/28/2018 5:54pm
Typically it’s best to have it checked and trued if needed. A lot of people buy the kits and throw them in, they blow up, and...
Typically it’s best to have it checked and trued if needed. A lot of people buy the kits and throw them in, they blow up, and then blame the kits, which is true, but could have been avoided.
Ok I did a search of a 97 bottom end and couldn't find one do you know where I could order one from?
4/28/2018 8:38pm Edited Date/Time 4/28/2018 9:02pm
Sit down ,and total up the cost of everything you want to replace / rebuild. Add another $300 ,minimum, to the total for unexpected surprises. This should help you decide which direction you want to take with things.

If you plan to keep it, and ride it, it may be worth it. You will never get all the money back you sink into it if is just a flip.

Just looked at the caliper picture. Soak the piston right where it goes into the caliper. You can try to blow the piston out with compressed air. Remove the bleeder screw, and use a rubber tipped nozzle.
look out below
Posts
4208
Joined
12/23/2009
Location
Grain Valley, MO, USA
4/29/2018 8:35am
Yo, madmack, i got your pm but couldn't respond for some reason. Maybe the fact that my fat beagle sat on my macbook and broke it.

Any who, no, i have not gotten it to idle or get jetted right. I took it to my local shop and their solution was to put a shorter throttle cable on it to let the slide hang up slightly. I changed my cdi box, and that didn't work either.

Does anyone know of a rad vintage bike joint that i could send my motor to and have it come back working correctly?
4/29/2018 10:00am Edited Date/Time 4/29/2018 1:05pm
Madmack wrote:
Ok I did a search of a 97 bottom end and couldn't find one do you know where I could order one from?
Just buy a rod kit ( Hot Rods has a kit, and OEM parts are still available from Suzuki) for it and a set of main bearings. Pull the crank and take it, along with the rod kit to your local Suzuki shop and have them rebuild the crank for you. Should cost 1-1.5 hours of whatever they charge for labor

Edit: Channeled my inner Tyler....
4/29/2018 10:36am
Just buy a rod kit ( Hot Rods has a kit, and OEM parts are still available from Suzuki) for it and a set of main...
Just buy a rod kit ( Hot Rods has a kit, and OEM parts are still available from Suzuki) for it and a set of main bearings. Pull the crank and take it, along with the rod kit to your local Suzuki shop and have them rebuild the crank for you. Should cost 1-1.5 hours of whatever they charge for labor

Edit: Channeled my inner Tyler....
Not one shop in the Tampa Bay area I would trust to rebuild a crank these days. Old bikes like that need most major components refreshed. $$ adds up quick on those to bring everything back into service.

Does that mangled radiator still hold water ?
What shape are the linkage bearings, wheel bearings, steering bearings in ?
Shock still have any life left in it ?
Fork seals good ?
Cables ?

You could spend a chunk on it, and it is still only going to be what it is, an old 125.
4/29/2018 1:00pm
Not one shop in the Tampa Bay area I would trust to rebuild a crank these days. Old bikes like that need most major components refreshed...
Not one shop in the Tampa Bay area I would trust to rebuild a crank these days. Old bikes like that need most major components refreshed. $$ adds up quick on those to bring everything back into service.

Does that mangled radiator still hold water ?
What shape are the linkage bearings, wheel bearings, steering bearings in ?
Shock still have any life left in it ?
Fork seals good ?
Cables ?

You could spend a chunk on it, and it is still only going to be what it is, an old 125.
Then you have some seriously crappy shops in your area, I'm afraid. I have a good shop local to me, and I do trust their work. However, because they're human, they can make mistakes. I have them do my crank rebuilds for me, and even though they do good work, I inspect the crank myself after I get it back. (haven't had any trouble with their crank work BTW).

The rest that you mention...wheel bearings, chassis bearings, Shock, fork seals, etc...that's all gonna need serviced/replaced on even a 2 year old bike. Most people who buy dirt bikes don't do squat for maintenance
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/29/2018 3:07pm
Not one shop in the Tampa Bay area I would trust to rebuild a crank these days. Old bikes like that need most major components refreshed...
Not one shop in the Tampa Bay area I would trust to rebuild a crank these days. Old bikes like that need most major components refreshed. $$ adds up quick on those to bring everything back into service.

Does that mangled radiator still hold water ?
What shape are the linkage bearings, wheel bearings, steering bearings in ?
Shock still have any life left in it ?
Fork seals good ?
Cables ?

You could spend a chunk on it, and it is still only going to be what it is, an old 125.
What area are you in? I just opened the radiator cap it looks like i have a good amount of fluid in there but i dont know to check the levels on the other side where its bent at. I havent checked everything else you just listed i didnt dig into it i was mainly concerned with the engine at the moment and i wouldnt know when some of those needed to be replaced as this is my first dirtbike.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/29/2018 4:34pm
Just buy a rod kit ( Hot Rods has a kit, and OEM parts are still available from Suzuki) for it and a set of main...
Just buy a rod kit ( Hot Rods has a kit, and OEM parts are still available from Suzuki) for it and a set of main bearings. Pull the crank and take it, along with the rod kit to your local Suzuki shop and have them rebuild the crank for you. Should cost 1-1.5 hours of whatever they charge for labor

Edit: Channeled my inner Tyler....
Could you look on motosport and look at the oem crankcase and tell me what parts i would need if i already got the hot rods and bearings? Im pricing everything now
TejasTJ
Posts
35
Joined
12/23/2017
Location
USA
4/29/2018 5:44pm Edited Date/Time 4/29/2018 5:46pm
Several years ago I had a ‘94 RM 125 that wasn’t in that bad of shape that I picked up for $500. It needed a stator and new tires. I jetted the carb because it was fouling plugs left and right. I sent the rear shock off to be rebuilt and replaced the fork seals. I rode it a lot for several months until the main rod bearing let go locking the motor up. I didn’t feel comfortable enough to do the bottom end myself so I had a shop rebuild the motor for $550. When it was all said and done I probably had around $1800 in the whole bike.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/29/2018 5:59pm
TejasTJ wrote:
Several years ago I had a ‘94 RM 125 that wasn’t in that bad of shape that I picked up for $500. It needed a stator...
Several years ago I had a ‘94 RM 125 that wasn’t in that bad of shape that I picked up for $500. It needed a stator and new tires. I jetted the carb because it was fouling plugs left and right. I sent the rear shock off to be rebuilt and replaced the fork seals. I rode it a lot for several months until the main rod bearing let go locking the motor up. I didn’t feel comfortable enough to do the bottom end myself so I had a shop rebuild the motor for $550. When it was all said and done I probably had around $1800 in the whole bike.
1800 on top of what you bought the bike for? What else did you have to do to it? My suspension is squishy. Did they charge 500 for just the bottom or top and bottomn?
TejasTJ
Posts
35
Joined
12/23/2017
Location
USA
4/29/2018 9:11pm
The cost of the bike and everything else I had to do to it, which really wasn’t that much. $550 for a completely rebuilt motor.

If you really want to ride dirt bikes and I don’t mean rip around in an open field. I would cut your loses and part it out or sell it and get a newer 125/250 for 2k.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/30/2018 8:10am
I plan on riding trails and stuff but not heavy like signing up for races and riding it super hard all the time as I said this is my first bike and I'm just learning.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/30/2018 10:07am
I just talked to somebody they said they would do my bottom end for 100. (thats just bringing him the bottom end in hand)
4/30/2018 2:14pm
that's not going to include rebuilding the crank. Sounds like you're gonna get taken for a ride...you need a press and a few other bits to rebuild a crankshaft....
4/30/2018 6:20pm
Fix the obvious. Brakes for sure. If it is running fairly decent, ride it, see if you even enjoy it as much as you think you will. Keep the $$ invested to a minimum. Fix it as things break. Or when it does, sell it , part it, and step up to a bit better bike if you want to pursue riding further.

If the radiator holds water under pressure, brakes work, and tires hold air, screw the rest for now ,and ride that thing for what it is. It's more fun when you don't spend a ton of money just to find out it is not what you thought it may be.

In my area, there are absolutely no places to ride, other than loading up and heading to one of the riding parks / areas. No need to dump a ton of money in something that will not get much use. It can sit when it breaks. Hell, it may run for a good while as is under a beginner.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/30/2018 9:01pm
Sounds good just the engine brakes and tires. Im in the city theres not really anywhere to ride and i dont have a truck to load it up all the time so this might do just fine. It most likely won't even get ridden every month.
Madmack
Posts
61
Joined
4/26/2018
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
4/30/2018 10:05pm
If i was to get a hot rod "rod kit" and main bearing " for the bike what parts would i need to finish the complete bottom end rebuild. I was looking at the schematics on motosport but i dont know enough to pick out what i would still need
pmshortt2
Posts
653
Joined
8/17/2016
Location
USA
5/1/2018 11:05am
It sounds like you may need some guidance from someone to help you if your going to do the job yourself. If you are just taking it somewhere or sending the engine off then let them order the parts for you so that you don’t get the wrong thing.

Here’s something to think about. When I was 19 I bought my first personal dirtbike. A ragged out 1997 yz125 for $1100. I didn’t know shit about dirtbikes, hadn’t ridden one for years so I brought a friend to test ride it for meLaughing Anyways they said the bottom end was rebuilt and had Hot Rods stickers on the beat up plastics so I fell for it. I was desperate for a bike at the time, it was right before summer.

My friend test rode it up and down the driveway and it really did run fine. They said the top end would need rebuilt soon. I ran it all summer without anything happening to the top end, but by late September I started to have transmission issues. When I pulled the top end, the piston was so garage it wasn’t even funny, I’m not sure how the engine didn’t grenade, as did people on these forums and Reddit. Woohoo

I ended up deciding that I needed to learn some bike wrenching skills if I want to keep riding. I was working two jobs at the time and was gone 16-17 hours a day working Monday - Friday and some saturdays so I decided I didn’t have the time to do the bottom end and transmission myself. I sent off the engine to a company to have rebuilt, it took a solid 5 months for them to get to it, which sucked because I couldn’t ride from December - May. Not going to name the company.

I bought a manual for the bike and I completely restored the rest of the bike. Powder coated the frame, sent shock off and rebuilt forks myself. Replaced every bolt I could and installed all new bearings myself. Replaced majority of the parts on the bike because everything was so trashed. I learned a lot about the bike during this period which is awesome because I will forever have this knowledge. Here’s the bad.

I got the engine back and it worked for 3 rides until I could not shift past 2nd gear. I haven’t riden in 6 months due to this. I had bought a 2000 yz125 from a friend that just “needed a top end” and ended up getting ripped on that one too. I spend a solid $3000+ on the 97 yz125. Excluding buying the bike. My plan with these bikes is to take my time rebuilding the entire 97 engine myself and restore it the 2000 over the next year or two.

I’m buying a brand new 18 kx250f in a couple weeks and will be back to riding something that won’t become a money pit. Sadly, that’s what most of these old beaten bikes are, money pits. You will spend more time wrenching than riding unless you fully restore it. I would suggest that unless you are mechanically able to do the majority of these repairs and have a solid $2500-$3000 to dump into it, just go put $1000 down on a new bike and finance it. If you can get a new bike with 3-5% interest you will won’t pay much in interest. Try to find a past year model 250f or get a kawi or Suzuki for $5-$6,000. That’s my advice. Good luck my friend. Cool

Post a reply to: 97 rm125 first bike HELP!!

The Latest