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I have about four rides on my new-to-me 86 CR 500 and although it always starts, I can best describe it as "grumpy." Bike has stock jetting, I just bored the cylinder and replaced top end, reeds are good with no gaps, new crank seals on both sides. Right now I am running a B8ES from an auto parts store. Timing is lined up exactly, 32:1 non ethanol 92 gas.
I know there are a lot of voodoo tricks for starting (and I use them with varying degrees of success). But the bike still feels inconsistent about how many kicks it will take to start. Most ride days have been in the mid 40s to high 50s. I'm having a hard time figuring out when I need to go through the entire drill (choke and lean it over until gas trickles, then put it in gear and rock 5-6 times, then kick it.) I'm also getting some sort of misfire fairly regularly before it starts up, like it wants to light and can't quite do it. That makes me wonder if it's some sort of ignition timing or plug issue.
Just wondering what plugs people recommend and if some work better than others, as well as any other little hacks I may be missing (air screw, pilot, ignition timing advance/retard). I've also heard there is a carb mod (same effect as a power wing) that helps with starting as well as low end power. I have no intention of going the decompressor route, however.
I have a BR8EIX on order, I'm curious to see if that helps. Appreciate any thoughts or theories!
I know there are a lot of voodoo tricks for starting (and I use them with varying degrees of success). But the bike still feels inconsistent about how many kicks it will take to start. Most ride days have been in the mid 40s to high 50s. I'm having a hard time figuring out when I need to go through the entire drill (choke and lean it over until gas trickles, then put it in gear and rock 5-6 times, then kick it.) I'm also getting some sort of misfire fairly regularly before it starts up, like it wants to light and can't quite do it. That makes me wonder if it's some sort of ignition timing or plug issue.
Just wondering what plugs people recommend and if some work better than others, as well as any other little hacks I may be missing (air screw, pilot, ignition timing advance/retard). I've also heard there is a carb mod (same effect as a power wing) that helps with starting as well as low end power. I have no intention of going the decompressor route, however.
I have a BR8EIX on order, I'm curious to see if that helps. Appreciate any thoughts or theories!
What jetting?
What elevation?
Stock pipe?
Stock carb?
Any porting?
What brand premix?
My 86 cr500 had a flywheel weight that made it easier to kick, I also would kick it when it was sitting for the stand so I could have more leverage with the left foot on the peg (as opposed to standing on the ground with left foot, I realize this only no works if you have the stand with you which I do when first setting off for a ride which is when it's cold and harder to start)
I also kick mine through about 5 to 6 full kicks very slowly, this produces some weird backfiring like you mentioned but after that 1 hard kick from top dead center and it normally fiires. I have tried all the voodoo tricks and like you said they seem hit or miss.
I also give it wide open throttle as I hold the kill switch when shutting down, this let's more fuel into the bottom end and theoretically lubes everything better while it sits and for the next start, never know, that extra fuel may help it start easier next go round...
Other than that a pwk upgrade or digital ignition upgrade could help it start easier and provide other advantages....
Cases are getting hard to find. That hard, and, perhaps no longer made, that both Panthera and Service Honda are selling new billet cases.
People seem to think it makes them less of a 'he man', to fit a decomp. It's worth it just to get rid of a hell of a lot of stress from the engines architecture.
scooter5002's 'god', does decomps. As did many others before him, and many others since, but maybe the 'god' tag, may convince you. I've used an Auto Decomp for decades now, on many large capacity, recalcitrant starting bikes. It's that flying saucer shaped thing under the radiator hose:
As for starting, you'll find that it seems each bike can be different. I've got f**ked knees, so use a decomp, that enables me to use a short Gas Gas trials bike KS lever ( to not have to bend my non bendy knees, and get a faster turn over, simply, there's less distance to the arc of the lever - remember when the hot set up for the Suzuki / Kawi 250F bike was accessory shorter levers?):
I made a longer foot piece for the Gas Gas lever, so my boot can never slip off it. Hyper extending your knee from a slip off the KS lever, is a bitch! It's that short, the KS hits the lower KTM pegs I use basically at the foot piece - so, buggerall leverage put into the cases at contact is an added benefit.
It seems no matter what, it's best for me to use the choke, when the engine is cold, lean the bike over and destroy the environment by dribbling fuel on the ground, then do a few priming kicks, then one swift kick. When the engine's warm, just a simple kick is all there is to it. Projected plug tips - "BPs" - have been recommended by many, for decades now, but I never found much difference. I've even used the multi tip , 3 to 4 electrode type plugs, and the old beast starts the same / runs the same no matter what.
CR500s are one of the most basic engines ever made - this upsets a few when I say it (in joking, with much affection for it), but they are just a few levels above a BSA Bantam engine in technology. But that's one of the great beauties of them - it's axe simple, nearly indestructible, and one of the loveliest engines to use, on earth. Mines a big Teddy Bear, that you just have to have good throttle control with.
I don't think k this is just an old bike problem, I was watching the 86 MXDN and you could see Bailey kicking it like crazy before one of the motos. And that was a HRC bike!!
Mine has PC pipe, stock porting, Maxima 927 but switching to Super M soon. Elevation is pretty close to sea level, maybe a couple hundred feet, nothing extteme.
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Consider your carb - if it's the original one, and the bikes seen a lot of use, it can be, quite literally, worn out. The slide , the slide channel, the needle jet / atomiser , the needle, the needle and seat. Anyone that says a carb won't wear out, is, frankly, dumber than a post.
If it's going to be a 'keeper', really consider the age of any carb you have on it.
A lot of people will go on about 41.5's . 39s etc etc, but as a great all around carb, a 38mm Air Striker is quite a wonderful thing. It's a more sophisticated carb - well compared to std - and helps with every aspect of the bikes running. Last I read on the 2 main CR500 websites, is that Service Honda sell them for quite a reasonable price. Though, I also read SH are in some form of 'difficulty' at the moment. Sudco also do them. And, there's a company in Florida , who's name escapes me now, that also deal in Carbs, at very good prices. You can also get any number of 2nd hand carbs, but bugger that, you've got the potential to just buy problems.
But, to repeat, it's an old bike, there could be myriad problems that are causing you starting difficulties. If it's a keeper, to be cherished, give it some love.
2006 crf250r with 1989 cr500 engine
That sounds like a long time
Ya need to install the correct spark plug in her and that is a NGK BR8EG, your carburetor is a Keihin 38PJ but I upgraded mine to a 41PWK from a KX500 and I run a NGK BR9EG plug in the winter time which is a hotter plug. No voodoo tricks, place it on a stand, choke on of course and prime the crank case and cylinder 5-6 times ( remember, it's a 500 2 stroke weed trimmer start it that way ), bring it up to compression stroke and kick it than repeat, you'll know when it's ready to fire when you smell fumes from fuel coming from the exhaust. you can use the BR8ES but that is a cooler plug, it calls for the BR8EG, Happy Riding. The bike in the picture is mine, named Pandora. she is an 86 but looks nothing like yours.
As an owner of some of the finest British oil distribution systems (Matchless, Triumph, BSA,CCM) and a few of the larger displacement Maico's, one other trick is to kick the piston just past top dead center, reset the kicker for full swing action. Kicking at this point will give you maximum speed before the bike hits TDC. Works on lots of stubborn bikes for me. Good luck.
9 is colder..but if it works for you, that is great
What carb are you using, the 41 Pro Series PWK? Only reason I ask is that the KX carb is a 39 PWK and I’ve only seen them bored to 40.5 without issues.
My mistake, it is a 40.5, I forgot I rounded the number out to 41. I also installed a crank out of a 1998 cr500 and installed a spacer kit to raise the height of the cylinder, huge improvement. if you can zoom in at the engine you'll see it
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