1986 CR 250 RC project/rep/build up.. IT'S FINISHED!!!

4/14/2016 6:01am
Unreal Stevie, as usual! Love the HRC front disc...

Get those last bits sorted! We need to see pics and vids!

Only thing i'm not 100% are the graphics...could be a better option to get some printed on clear, to match the plastic colour 100%...but then again you are riding it so doesn't really matter. Will probably look better in decent lighting Smile
4/14/2016 7:41am
Absolutely beautiful build, your attention to detail is off the charts. I had an '86, those were cool bikes, considering looking for another for some vintage races.
chuckie108
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4/14/2016 11:45am
Soooo bitchen!!! Thanks for the update!

"Figure out why the rear brake won't bleed through"

When I change out brake lines, or ever start with a dry system, I have a repurposed syringe I use to fill the brake system. I just connect it to the caliper and fill the system from the bottom until bubbles stop popping at the reservoir. Then I bleed the normal old school way to get all the air out. If you try and fill the system from the top with M/C, it will take for ever, or sometimes not happen at all(especially on a rear system that is mostly horizontal). A trick I learned building supermoto bikes for 5 years. Hope that's helpful.
jtracing6
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Dundalk IE
4/14/2016 1:13pm
Stevie, did you make Ti bolts for the reservoir clamps?

The Shop

4/14/2016 2:21pm
chuckie108 wrote:
Soooo bitchen!!! Thanks for the update! "Figure out why the rear brake won't bleed through" When I change out brake lines, or ever start with a...
Soooo bitchen!!! Thanks for the update!

"Figure out why the rear brake won't bleed through"

When I change out brake lines, or ever start with a dry system, I have a repurposed syringe I use to fill the brake system. I just connect it to the caliper and fill the system from the bottom until bubbles stop popping at the reservoir. Then I bleed the normal old school way to get all the air out. If you try and fill the system from the top with M/C, it will take for ever, or sometimes not happen at all(especially on a rear system that is mostly horizontal). A trick I learned building supermoto bikes for 5 years. Hope that's helpful.
Chuckie, I think the main problem is with the master cylinder take off/elbow I made. I don't think it's sealed properly! I need to pull it apart and investigate.

I like the idea of filling it from reverse, as you said, rear systems are a bitch to bleed!! I need to get some decent syringe's! The only one I have is from a fork oil hight kit and it's crap! The seal in it reacts with oil and swells so it's completely and utely useless!!

Stevie
chuckie108
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4/15/2016 8:22am
StevieD113 wrote:
Chuckie, I think the main problem is with the master cylinder take off/elbow I made. I don't think it's sealed properly! I need to pull it...
Chuckie, I think the main problem is with the master cylinder take off/elbow I made. I don't think it's sealed properly! I need to pull it apart and investigate.

I like the idea of filling it from reverse, as you said, rear systems are a bitch to bleed!! I need to get some decent syringe's! The only one I have is from a fork oil hight kit and it's crap! The seal in it reacts with oil and swells so it's completely and utely useless!!

Stevie
If I'm being honest, my syringe is a bit dodgey but gets the job done. I also have a vacuum bleeder like linked above. Another solid way to go, but I have had better luck with pushing the fluid through as opposed to using vacuum to suck it down.

I took another look through this thread last night- good god man!! This is build is truly on another level. It's been a 2 year process, so I guess it kind creeps up on you, but take a look at it all at once and the amount of work you have done on this bike is immense. I was blown away by the CR250 build blackdiamond (I think that's the name) has been posting in the moto section, but this bike gives him a run for his money(or maybe his to yours!). I mean EVERY single bolt being Ti- insanity. The best part is, you plan to ride the thing! BBRRAAPP!!!!
4/15/2016 2:00pm
As a machinist myself, I can imagine all the time and effort you have put into this project. Very impressive skills and passion you have. Great job !!!!
4/18/2016 12:29pm
chuckie108 wrote:
If I'm being honest, my syringe is a bit dodgey but gets the job done. I also have a vacuum bleeder like linked above. Another solid...
If I'm being honest, my syringe is a bit dodgey but gets the job done. I also have a vacuum bleeder like linked above. Another solid way to go, but I have had better luck with pushing the fluid through as opposed to using vacuum to suck it down.

I took another look through this thread last night- good god man!! This is build is truly on another level. It's been a 2 year process, so I guess it kind creeps up on you, but take a look at it all at once and the amount of work you have done on this bike is immense. I was blown away by the CR250 build blackdiamond (I think that's the name) has been posting in the moto section, but this bike gives him a run for his money(or maybe his to yours!). I mean EVERY single bolt being Ti- insanity. The best part is, you plan to ride the thing! BBRRAAPP!!!!
Chuckie, thank you.

I've been following Black-diamonds build. WOW!! That is one epic thread! Thank you for the comparison!!

Stevie
Vanflank
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CA
6/27/2016 4:06pm
StevieD113 - nice work can't wait to see it all done. Quick question did you send out the original rims to get redone or order new ones? I need to get mine done for my 86 CR 250 and was wondering what the best route was..

thanks..

J
7/1/2016 4:28am
Vanflank wrote:
StevieD113 - nice work can't wait to see it all done. Quick question did you send out the original rims to get redone or order new...
StevieD113 - nice work can't wait to see it all done. Quick question did you send out the original rims to get redone or order new ones? I need to get mine done for my 86 CR 250 and was wondering what the best route was..

thanks..

J
J, go with new rims. I wouldn't ride any bike with 20yr old rims. They become brittle and are prone to cracking.

Stevie
7/1/2016 5:01am
When I started this build, I had a good idea of which parts I was going to use and maybe, a slightly nieve idea of how simple it would be. 87 Swing arm.... straight swap... easy!!

Each change has brough with it a new issue that had to be resolved. Some I new were coming, the brake pedal for instance. I new it would be complete one off.. but something as simple as a chain roller I didn't see coming!

The 87 swing arm is a little chunkier than the 86. So much so that the lower chain roller wouldnt fit. I could have just made a small roller, but it would be really small.... 12-14mm....

So, i made up this little slipper pad. It bolts up to the original roller mount and it sits over the rear frame tube. I made a Titanium sleeve/spacer and obvioulsy the bolt is Ti as well.

Kinda chuffed with how its turned out!!









7/1/2016 5:22am
I've finally made my mind up with the rear shock! So I cracked on the last couple of evenings and got the last few bits I needed to be able to send it revalved and rebuilt.

The lower lock nut and bump stop base were a bit scabby. I made these out of stainless. I didn't have any 54mm Titanium. It's not a size of bar we would use so buying a short length for just a washer would be very expensive. Also, Titanium needs special Taps, which are agin very expensive. So Stainless it was!




The rebound adjuster was really chewed out. So I made one!.. in Titianum! I had to take the old one apart (hence why the top is machined off...) so I could see how it worked and what was inside. It's just a ball bearing, a spring and an o-ring to seal it. The top is closed off by a washer and then edges of the outer are peened over to hold it all in place. It's quite simple really. It's basically a mini fork adjuster! I replaced the o-ring and I used the ball bearing and spring out of the old unit.

It works perfectly, with a nice, satisfying "click" with every 1/4 turn!

I've also got a new seal head assembly, a NOS bump stop, damper piston o-ring and guide bush to go inside.

She might even get fired up this weekend!!.. if the kicker arrives!!

Stevie






7/12/2016 12:21pm Edited Date/Time 7/12/2016 3:39pm
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7/12/2016 12:39pm Edited Date/Time 7/12/2016 3:38pm
Its getting down to the last few little bits to have her fully finished. I managed to get into the shop on sunday and did a few hours on the rear brake pedal tip. I started with a 2" length of 2" dia 6al4v. It turned out way better than I expected!! It's a bit scary doing stuff like this as I didn't have anything to measure up, I was basically "whinging it", programming the mill as I went and just hoping that I didn't make a mistake!.....

Stevie



7/12/2016 1:00pm Edited Date/Time 7/12/2016 1:02pm
This morning the posty delivered a 2000 CR250 kick starter. A friend has kindly lent it to me to try.... sadly it doesn't fit.. it fouls the exhaust when it's folded in. It doesn't sit in far enough either.... but it did clear the brake pedal.... so... at lunch time I poured half a litre of premix into her and... well.... this happened....

I've never embeded a video before... and I've obviously done it wrong!!


billyslad
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7/12/2016 2:20pm
Great work Stevie it's amazing how involving they are !
chuckie108
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7/15/2016 6:17pm Edited Date/Time 7/15/2016 6:18pm
Such an awesome build!! Made your own fork cartridge base adjusters? You're mental dude! Epic fab skills on didplay. Hoping to make it to Farliegh one day to see these kind of machines in person.
mxBryan
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7/30/2016 5:20pm
That build is just pure porn Stevie !
Nice work, i admire.
8/28/2016 2:53pm Edited Date/Time 8/28/2016 3:08pm
Sorry for the long time getting updates to you.

There have been lots of little fiddly bits that I needed to finish off.

The first one of these was the kick starter... I'd tried a couple of different levers, KX 250, 2001 CR250... nothing really fitted... but I finally settled on a 2001 YZ kicker. It's the perfect shape, very similar to the factory lever.... BUT as it's off a YZ, fitting it wasnt quite simple....

The splines on the YZ knuckle are much finer than the CR and the detent is in different place on the pivot boss.

So I had to make a new knuckle... well I ended up making 3 in total. The first one looked spot on, but the spilines were in the wrong place so when it was mounted it was either to too far back and touching the frame, or much 2 far forward...
I'd also positioned the detent in the same place as on the original YZ knuckle. So the lever stopped facing straight forward. It really should have been moved round to when "home" it pointed in a little.

I made the next one as a proper "test" in alloy, and followed it along side at each stage with one in titanium. I moved the splines round and changed the angles of the stop faces and the detent hole.

This is actually the very first "wrong" knuckle. but it looks pretty cool! The correct one looks almost identical.


I have since swapped out the OEM retainer bolt for a titanium one.


Fitted to the bike. I had to take a little material off the outer face of the lever. As just before the lever hit the stop (the footpeg) it touched the clutch case, the "lump" for the bolt to go through directly bellow it. Now it clears perfectly.


Looks like it was made for it!!


I also had to figure out a brake pedal return spring. I didn't like the way i'd first made the mount for it on my brake pedal, so I removed it. I ended up using a small stainless steel compession spring and I made up a titanium retining washer than just seats inside the sping and also over the top of the clevis. It's simple, tidy and it works! I know it isn't a new or "original" idea but I don't think theres any fitments for old EVO bike!! I'm having some more springs made up so I can offer it to others.


8/28/2016 3:02pm Edited Date/Time 8/28/2016 3:05pm
I also managed to get the footpeg return springs sorted. As Im using YZ pegs the original springs don't fit so I had some made (in stainless steel). they needed to be exactly as per original to fit in to the frame correctly, but have different top section to fit the new pegs... We sent the original springs off, along with a really quick 2 minute "napkin" type sketch of what we needed. I had a few extra sets made if anyones interested!!

I didn't have the retaining washer and split pin fitted for the pictures.





8/29/2016 4:52am
Along with the new bits I made for the shock I managed to get a lot of new OEM parts for the shock internals.
Bump stop, damper ring seals and bushes, a new bladder from Rach Tech.




I also made some new spring pre-load adjusters. I wasn't happy with the first pair I made. These are much better!



KAIS did an awsome job of assembling the shock for me. They also re-valved it for me.



This makes me happy!! It looks way better than I thought it would!




8/29/2016 5:08am Edited Date/Time 8/29/2016 6:35am
And that is that!! She's done. 3 years and 100's of hours.

Frank at EVO MX has sorted out the decals for us ready for the Vets MXDN this coming weekend. Frank is a long time friend and sponsor of Todd Dehoop, so he came through and got all of Todd's other sponsors on there along with our own!

It looks like a proper race bike now!!













8/29/2016 5:11am
One last one. It's a strange feeling to have it all done! I've only ridden it round the yard, and next weekend Todd will be twisting the grips off it!!



FreshTopEnd
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8/29/2016 11:30am
What a beaut
mxBryan
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8/29/2016 11:33am
Hats off sir !
billyslad
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8/29/2016 1:11pm
Fantastic work Stevie ur an inspiration to us all
Catch you for a beer at farleigh
8/31/2016 3:23pm
StevieD113 wrote:
The bottom end went together perfectly. When everything is freshly vapour blasted and powder coated its like working on brand new motor!! All new OEM bearings...
The bottom end went together perfectly. When everything is freshly vapour blasted and powder coated its like working on brand new motor!!

All new OEM bearings.



The gear box is made up of 3 different 'boxes. But i've ended up with a 'box that is absolutely perfect, No wear no nothing!


Nice new crank. The original was pretty beat. It was possible to re build it, but the tins had had a right battering, so I went with a new item.



I ended up making a crank puller tool. I know you don't "need" one.... it "can" be done with brute force...... but I really didn't want to go down that road!

On my Rockets I don't use one at all, they go together SO easy.... but they are 30 yrs old!! With this one its a little different, with the new crank... everything is a lot "tighter".

It's impressive, this engine looks like a factory Japan motor!! I have some questions about the crankshaft, is this a Wiseco '02-'04 crankshaft? the crank pin is 25mm or 24mm? did you cut the webs to fit in the '86 crankcases? Because I can't found a solid crankshaft for my '01 CR250R motor.
barkhard696
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9/1/2016 7:03am
Stevie, not to add to the list of raving fans but ... You absolutely KILLED it on this one. I mean, the Vintage Wars are over, PDE won.

I am one of many, many who love to have been able to see this build. Thank you sir -- or, "good on you, bruv"!

Right on, Stevie. Makes my '86 project small beer and I am glad for it.
DuneRider250
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Lemoore, CA US
9/4/2016 12:49pm
Damn nice build dude! The attention to detail is so impressive.

P.S. Show this off in the bike check section!

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