Anyone got any photo question?

Hey Paul, I know you'll know this answer to this question. Im a noob yes, and Im trying to paste some pictures in a post and I can't do it. During each time I try to paste a photo in a post the infobar comes up, "this website is using a scripted window, will you allow?" If you have any help, it would be greatly appreicated.

Hey Paul - S Hoffman here

Any advise between getting a 5D Mark ii vs a 7d. Need a backup camera for the SX season. Which is better for low stadium lights? Simon, if you read this I know you have both cameas.

Hi Paul-I was wondering what are the best settings when shooting ice racing. Everything is either white and bright or gloomy? I keep trying different settings but most times do panned shots with slower shutter speeds. Or try the aperature for straight on shots. Here are a few but I tried to fix them up abit in one of those cheap photo programs. thanks MXdragonfly2

Hi Paul-thanks for the tips and advice. I will try it out hopefully this coming weekend at the next race. Since I know the snow and ice isn't gone to be leaving with the temperatures how they are lately. Too cold for my fingers at times.Thanks again for taking the time to answer my question. MXdragaonfly2

Hi Paul

Just starting out with digital SLR photography - bought myself a Nikon D5000 with the kit lens (18-55). I've been using a high end compact (Canon Powershot G9) for a while, so I'm familiar with the basics of shutter, aperture, etc. I understand all the theory, and I'm keen on experimenting, so now it's just a matter of putting it into practice!

I live in Toronto and I'm going to the SX in March. I thought it would be a great opportunity to try some dirtbike photography. Anyway the Toronto round is in the Rogers Centre with the roof closed so it will be full stadium lighting. I plan on going during the practice sessions to get some shots where I will be able to walk around a bit better.

At the moment I don't have a second lens but I can rent lenses here for what seems like a pretty good price. Based on what I've read here it seems like a 70-200 f/2.8 would be about right? I can rent one (a Nikon obviously) for $40 for the weekend.

What about resting/stability? The lens has VR (Nikon's image stabilisation) but I'm assuming that for the faster shutter speeds for most situations handholding will probably do?

Any other general tips? So far from this thread I've picked up a few - be careful about your focus point, look for interesting angles (might be difficult from the stands), watch out for what's in the background (again, inside a stadium with closed roof maybe not too many options).

Thanks Paul. Hadn't seen the golden ratio applied like that before. The one basic rule I had in mind when framing shots was to keep some space in front of the bike to give a sense that it is moving somewhere.

hey paul,

I have a few questions for you, i am a amateur photographer and i have a Nikon D300 with a 70-200 and a 24-120 lens. I plan to attend a few east coast sx this year and i am trying to get some media passes. anyways i was wondering if you could help me set of my camera for sx shooting? any help would be great.

ive gone through all the pages here and have looked for the Nikon D80 but it seems everyone is using something way more advanced. is that a decent amatuer camera?


brent

Hi

I just bought my self a Canon 1D mkIII can you give me any tips for the iso settings.. i'm use to use auto iso on my 50D but the mkIII doesn't have a auto iso..
I get over or under exposure when i move my cam with the rider.. the light is not consisstent .. if you know what i mean.. ( sorry for my crappy english..)

Wilco from Holland
www.swspeedpics.nl

Thank you for yor reply..

I often use the M function, sometimes TV and AV .. for mx i use spot metering or central .. So if i burst a jump, how to ajdust.. ?

btw i found a setting so i can use my iso setting as if it is on auto iso ..

(have you seen my pics btw?)

Paul: I'm in trouble! I need and advise: I shoot only sport MarkIIn or new 7D?? I think MarkIIn is better but I wait for your words...thank you!

Hey Paul,

Thanks so much for sharing your passion and knowledge. I really appreciate how you use terms that just about anyone can understand. I just invested a couple of hours in reading the entire 12 pages of this thread and learned quite a bit.

I am a hobby shooter, mainly trying to capture my buddies doing something cool (or stupid) on the track!

I have been using the Canon Rebel series and recently upgraded to the T1i ( (500D)

Over the past 5 years I have put together the following mid range lens collection

50mm f1.8 (Plastic Fantastic)

10-22mm f3.5 - 4.5

17-85mm f4-5.6 IS

70-300mm f4-5.6 IS

Canon 430 EX flash

I have taken a few classes, but am still struggling to understand the manual modes. Individually I understand the concepts of aperture settings and exposure time settings, but when you combine the two, I default to the more is better theory and it rarely works!

I do have a couple of simple questions for you.

First, I bought the 50mm f1.8 about a year ago and it opened my eyes to the reality about prime lenses and quality glass. Granted, it is at the bottom of the "quality lens" list, but I was shocked at the image quality it produced compared to the kit lenses I had at the time.

I would like to get a quality "do it all" lens and am leaning toward the Canon 70-200mm f2.8

My understanding is that there are 3 version of it available.

Ver. 1 70-200mm f2.8 w/o IS (image stabilization) for about $800 used
Ver. 2 70-200mm f2.8 w IS for about $1400 used
Ver. 3 70-200mm f2,8 w IS II for about $2500 new

My gut says that based on my beginner / amateur skill level, to go for the Ver. 2 as I will most likely benefit from the IS vs. Ver. 1 and that the Ver 3. is probably way more capable than I could use with my limited skills. I ave read that when shooting moving objects, IS may not be the way to go and so possibly the Ver. 1 would work for my needs?

Your thoughts?

I will sell one or two of my current lenses to help fund the purchase.

I primarily shot outdoors at the local tracks around here, Washougal, Mt View, PIR etc. I also do a lot of hiking in the NW and love to shoot landscape and interesting flora & fauna.
Some portrait stuff, friends at parties etc.

2nd Question

I own CRFSTUFF.COM and shoot my products myself. I get decent quality, but am hit and miss and really struggle sometimes with lighting and capturing the details that make a product "pop".

I generally use the 50, 10-22 and 17-85 for product shots. I did just purchase one of those light boxes, but haven't tried it yet. Maybe that will solve my lighting issues.

I am considering upgrading to a 50mm or 85mm f1.2, but man are they expensive! What would you recommend for a good all around product shot lens?


I am also wondering if another flash that can act as a master to my 430 might resolve the lighting issues.

Lastly,
Can you recommend a cleaning kit for the lenses and body or do you prefer to have them professionally cleaned periodically?


I know I need to learn quite a bit more, but my expereince withthe Nifty 50 has me wondering!

The lady I have taken a few photography classes from tells a funny story that reminds me I do have to learn more, it's not the equipment!

The story goes like this- A guy has a good friend over for the holidays and his wife spends most of the day slaving away in the kitchen preparing the most amazing meal his friend has ever had. Later that evening, they are relaxing by the fire and the friend wants to thank his buddies wife for the great meal with a compliment and says, " Wow, that was a great meal, you must have some really nice pots and pans........" ! ;-)

Thanks again!

Scott

I don't think this has been covered yet, but I am wondering how long a DSLR actually lasts. The life of the camera. When mine has reached it's max on Shutter Count / Actuations, would it be better to replace the shutter or get a new camera? I have a Nikon D300. I am afraid mine is getting ready to die on me... I have tried to find the actuation count and can't seem to find the info...

Thanks Paul,

I really appreciate your advice. Haver a great summer!

Maybe see ya at Washougal or Des Nations!

Paul, i've enjoyed your photos for YEARS. your work, and Simons, are why i got into moto-photo. Anyway, more of a technical question. I have been shooting with a MK II1Ds lately, got rid of the MK III's cause i couldnt come to terms with the ghosting issues. Anyway, the MK II1Ds focus is so much better than my MK III's. One thing i noticed, and i shoot AV frequently, is that the camera tends to over-expose 1/3 on almost every shot. Never had this problem on the MK II's and wondered if you noticed this behavior? Not really an issue, just curious. I shoot EVAL mode most the time and i have to admit to being lazy and not testing spot/avg.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Paul (and anyone else with an opinion)-

Looking at Nikon vs Canon, Canon has the edge in pixels and Nikon has the edge in auto focus and high iso. (1D mk iv vs 3Ds / 5D mkii vs D700). If you could do it all over, would you run with the Nikon or the Canon systems and why.

I ask because I'm currently learning on a T2i and am looking to step it up. By that I mean start buying good glass and flashes and then later the body. But after a few $400 flashes and a few $2,000 lens I'd have to be committed.

What do you mean that Canon has the edge in pixels?

I think Nikon does have an edge in autofocus, but the high ISO has a lot to do with the software.

Canon's have more MPs in simular cameras across both companies' ranges. The MPs are great for large prints. (A selling point for my wife because she likes to have stuff blown up and on the walls of our house).

The Nikons do seem to have the edge in autofocus out of the box, but the Canons are more customizable (albeit more confusing) with more cross type sensors.

The Nikons are better in ISO preprocessed (looking at the RAW files). Go to DPReview for comparisons.

I've done my homework. Nikon seems to put out better sports cameras in the lower ranges, but the 1D Mark IV and D3s are roughly equivalent.

I was thinking of getting a semi-pro camera (again Nikon advantage for sports, Canon advantage for video and landscapes)... But now I'm thinking of buying a 24-70 2.8L for my T2i, then saving a bunch of money for a 1D Mark IV and keeping my T2i for video... The T2i can shoot 720p in 60FPS. I can slow down that 60FPS for sweet moto videos and diagnosing my golf swing!

Still, I'd be happy if some Paul weighed in...

My D3x is 24.5 megapixels, but reading all of this, I think you're nerding out too much about which camera to use.

I would recommend finding a used pro body over buying a new pro-sumer one, and I would say it doesn't matter all that much between Canon and Nikon. They're both very good. I think the Nikon glass is slightly better, but otherwise, they're very equivalent.

Most of the value of the photograph is going to be in its composition and execution, not in the number of megapixels or whatever - especially in sports photography.