improve brakes

anzzz73
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anzzz73
Edited Date/Time 4/9/2016 10:28am
can you mechanize the OEM brakes to improve braking?

I don´t want to spent money on this http://www.motosport.com/ride-engineering-billet-front-brake-caliper
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JackLHyde
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JackLHyde 4/7/2016 3:47am
4/7/2016 3:47am
Why would you? There are several other methods to improve the brakes.
mxbrian15
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mxbrian15 4/7/2016 5:46am
4/7/2016 5:46am
Oversized rotor of your choice and steel braided line. Done.
scooter5002
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scooter5002 4/7/2016 6:10am
4/7/2016 6:10am Edited Date/Time 4/7/2016 6:10am
First off, is your fluid good? Bleed that out completely, until it runs clear, if not. If you're on a budget, stainless line first. Then, add oversize rotor kit. Money no problem? Do it all, like mxbrian said.
anzzz73
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anzzz73 4/7/2016 7:24am
4/7/2016 7:24am
i have the brake line and braking 270 batfly or what ever its cold. But if factory riders use the mechanize ones must be for something. I know they change the diameter of the piston, but..that would be difficult for me.XD

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mb
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mb 4/7/2016 7:35am
4/7/2016 7:35am
It just changes the feel. If you have oversized rotors, Honda pads that's the best it's going to get for normal folk.
Zaugg
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Zaugg 4/7/2016 8:05am
4/7/2016 8:05am
What type of braking improvements do you hope to achieve? or what problems are you experiencing?
TeamGreen
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TeamGreen 4/7/2016 8:21am
4/7/2016 8:21am
scooter5002 wrote:
First off, is your fluid good? Bleed that out completely, until it runs clear, if not. If you're on a budget, stainless line first. Then, add...
First off, is your fluid good? Bleed that out completely, until it runs clear, if not. If you're on a budget, stainless line first. Then, add oversize rotor kit. Money no problem? Do it all, like mxbrian said.
If your front brake-line is old it may be "swollen". Try a new front brake-line and fluid.
I use Galfer lines.
Also, depending on what bike you have, you can go to a 270-280mm oversized rotor...if you just want MORE breaking. For the Baja 500-1000 we run Galfer Tsunami rotors (some riders run the std Galfer Wave rotors -Johnny Campbell)
hillbilly
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hillbilly 4/7/2016 9:40am
4/7/2016 9:40am
When you bleed the caliper make sure you cycle the pistons to get fresh fluid behind them.

First bleed the fresh fluid thru the system then with rotor out of the way pump the pads till they clamp a flat screwdriver between them. This makes it easy to pry them apart and push the piston all the way in.

Just be sure you dont pop them out. Fresh pads will touch each other without popping out a piston. Worn out pads may have enuff clearance to let a piston pop out.

When the pistons are all in bleed the fluid out you have pushed up the line. I use a tapered piece of wood wedged in the pads to hold them apart and keep the pistons pushed in.

Repeat that a few times . Just bleeding the line doesn't clean out the caliper which is the reason I cycle the pistons.
Tracktor
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Tracktor 4/7/2016 10:11am
4/7/2016 10:11am
For front brakes put on a newer honda master & line. Buy a used one off ebay. Makes a world of difference for cheap. I just did this to my kids 2015 KX250f and he loves it.............
Thelen20
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Thelen20 4/7/2016 10:13am
4/7/2016 10:13am
Or just buy a ktm, got to be careful with those bad boys.

I always desired more braking power when I was on honda
Mm471
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Mm471 4/7/2016 10:43am
4/7/2016 10:43am
Buy a Ktm brembo master, like 50$ on eBay best braking I've had
anzzz73
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anzzz73 4/7/2016 11:40pm
4/7/2016 11:40pm
hillbilly wrote:
When you bleed the caliper make sure you cycle the pistons to get fresh fluid behind them. First bleed the fresh fluid thru the system then...
When you bleed the caliper make sure you cycle the pistons to get fresh fluid behind them.

First bleed the fresh fluid thru the system then with rotor out of the way pump the pads till they clamp a flat screwdriver between them. This makes it easy to pry them apart and push the piston all the way in.

Just be sure you dont pop them out. Fresh pads will touch each other without popping out a piston. Worn out pads may have enuff clearance to let a piston pop out.

When the pistons are all in bleed the fluid out you have pushed up the line. I use a tapered piece of wood wedged in the pads to hold them apart and keep the pistons pushed in.

Repeat that a few times . Just bleeding the line doesn't clean out the caliper which is the reason I cycle the pistons.
what do you mean by cycle the pistons?
anzzz73
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anzzz73 4/7/2016 11:41pm
4/7/2016 11:41pm
Zaugg wrote:
What type of braking improvements do you hope to achieve? or what problems are you experiencing?
i´m always searching for improving in the bike made by myself, but i want more power, or i want to do less force with my finger but brake more XD
FWYT
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FWYT 4/8/2016 12:08am
4/8/2016 12:08am
Personally, I've always wondered why we still use those gawdamn floating calipers
in the first place. I mean, I know why (clearance issues) but I just someone would
get on it. I'm actually in the middle of fitting a Magura four piston caliper to the front
of my CRF. When I get it sorted it out, I'll post something.
Mm471
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Mm471 4/8/2016 6:53pm
4/8/2016 6:53pm
Zaugg wrote:
What type of braking improvements do you hope to achieve? or what problems are you experiencing?
anzzz73 wrote:
i´m always searching for improving in the bike made by myself, but i want more power, or i want to do less force with my finger...
i´m always searching for improving in the bike made by myself, but i want more power, or i want to do less force with my finger but brake more XD
Brembo master cyclinder gave my Yamaha more power for less input and also more consistent progressive power throughout
Andy_Greenney 4/9/2016 3:41am
4/9/2016 3:41am
Can't beat the brembos, best you will get out of nissins is oversize rotor, braided lines and genuine nissin brake pads (not the crap even Honda dealerships sell)
Cadpro18
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Cadpro18 4/9/2016 7:00am
4/9/2016 7:00am Edited Date/Time 4/9/2016 7:01am
The Ride Eng caliper was a much better improvement on my RMZ than an oversize rotor, pads, and line. The Ride caliper and an oversize rotor is better than the Brembos on my KTMs... better feel, effort, modulation, progression, and power.

Find a master cylinder, that when matched with your stock caliper produces the same hydraulic ratio as the Ride caliper and an 11mm master. The hydraulic ratio is key.
Robgvx
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Robgvx 4/9/2016 7:03am
4/9/2016 7:03am
Cadpro18 wrote:
The Ride Eng caliper was a much better improvement on my RMZ than an oversize rotor, pads, and line. The Ride caliper and an oversize rotor...
The Ride Eng caliper was a much better improvement on my RMZ than an oversize rotor, pads, and line. The Ride caliper and an oversize rotor is better than the Brembos on my KTMs... better feel, effort, modulation, progression, and power.

Find a master cylinder, that when matched with your stock caliper produces the same hydraulic ratio as the Ride caliper and an 11mm master. The hydraulic ratio is key.
Stock KTM is 14mm master cylinder. Japs have 11mm. FWIW...

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kkawboy14
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kkawboy14 4/9/2016 7:11am
4/9/2016 7:11am
mxbrian15 wrote:
Oversized rotor of your choice and steel braided line. Done.
^^^^ what he said!
mooch
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mooch 4/9/2016 7:29am
4/9/2016 7:29am
Any opinions on floating oversized front rotors vs non floating oversized? I've seen where some top riders have used the non floating.
Cadpro18
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Cadpro18 4/9/2016 8:56am
4/9/2016 8:56am
Cadpro18 wrote:
The Ride Eng caliper was a much better improvement on my RMZ than an oversize rotor, pads, and line. The Ride caliper and an oversize rotor...
The Ride Eng caliper was a much better improvement on my RMZ than an oversize rotor, pads, and line. The Ride caliper and an oversize rotor is better than the Brembos on my KTMs... better feel, effort, modulation, progression, and power.

Find a master cylinder, that when matched with your stock caliper produces the same hydraulic ratio as the Ride caliper and an 11mm master. The hydraulic ratio is key.
Robgvx wrote:
Stock KTM is 14mm master cylinder. Japs have 11mm. FWIW...
The '16 SXF master cylinder is 9mm, as was the 2013. The '14 had a 10mm and less power than the '13.
Robgvx
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Robgvx 4/9/2016 9:43am
4/9/2016 9:43am
Cadpro18 wrote:
The '16 SXF master cylinder is 9mm, as was the 2013. The '14 had a 10mm and less power than the '13.
2015 SXF is 14mm.

I'm no hydraulic engineer, but my understanding is that a larger piston moves more fluid for the same piston travel. So that's less leverage/power but shorter travel to apply the brake, and a firmer feel. Smaller piston gives more leverage/power but longer travel and a softer lever feel. However I guess it's also related to calliper piston size and quantity and of course disc size too.

But as I say, I'm no fluid dynamics guy so happy to be corrected.
Cadpro18
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Cadpro18 4/9/2016 10:28am
4/9/2016 10:28am
Robgvx wrote:
2015 SXF is 14mm. I'm no hydraulic engineer, but my understanding is that a larger piston moves more fluid for the same piston travel. So that's...
2015 SXF is 14mm.

I'm no hydraulic engineer, but my understanding is that a larger piston moves more fluid for the same piston travel. So that's less leverage/power but shorter travel to apply the brake, and a firmer feel. Smaller piston gives more leverage/power but longer travel and a softer lever feel. However I guess it's also related to calliper piston size and quantity and of course disc size too.

But as I say, I'm no fluid dynamics guy so happy to be corrected.
You're exactly correct. A lot of it is rider preference too. Also, I'm probably incorrect on the 2016 MC @ 9mm. All but one fiche I've found shows the 2016 as having the 2014 MC. I preferred the 2013 SXF MC as that has the closest feel to the Ride Eng/11mm combo.

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