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4/1/2008
Location
Valley, AL
US
Edited Date/Time
2/25/2016 8:50am
I just rebuilt my sons 15 CRF 250. Using OEM Honda parts I did a complete top and bottom end. I just finished buttoning it back up this AM. He said it rode fine for about three laps then started cutting out coming out of a turn. He said it you keep it WOT long enough (like on a straight section of track) it will smooth out. Obviously, we don't want it cutting out on the face of a jump so looking for some ideas.
This was my first FI rebuild and I must say that getting to the air box/throttle body/wiring, etc is a much larger chore compared to the carb versions. Looking for some ideas to try. He said that when it cools down it doesn't skip but as soon as it's warm again it goes right back to skipping. I told him to look at the air temp sensor on the air box and he said it looked fine. Also the code light wasn't showing anything either.
Also mentioned that after it's warmed up it wants to die when you pull in the clutch. If you pull out the choke he said this helps it a little. Any ideas guys? He's looking to ride tomorrow so I want to try and get this solved this evening.
Thanks
Gerald
This was my first FI rebuild and I must say that getting to the air box/throttle body/wiring, etc is a much larger chore compared to the carb versions. Looking for some ideas to try. He said that when it cools down it doesn't skip but as soon as it's warm again it goes right back to skipping. I told him to look at the air temp sensor on the air box and he said it looked fine. Also the code light wasn't showing anything either.
Also mentioned that after it's warmed up it wants to die when you pull in the clutch. If you pull out the choke he said this helps it a little. Any ideas guys? He's looking to ride tomorrow so I want to try and get this solved this evening.
Thanks
Gerald
Paw Paw
He also mentioned that the engine felt "hotter than usual. Like the kick starter was actually hot to touch. I know if timing is off it can cause this type things but the timing was right. I checked and double checked plus it ran fine for a few minutes before acting up plus it was cranking fine (until it got warmed up).
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The engine isn't getting any hotter than before. So we can rule that out. We cranked it up and just like he said he was sputtering around the midrange area but would smooth out on a long section of straight (our neighborhood road). After several trips up and down the street that day it seemed to solve its own problem (never a good thing).
We put the bike away and today we tried it out again. This time it appears that the rough patch of throttle is more off idle than midrange now. Midrange up to WOT is good. I assume it's running lean but what do I know. Do these thing get much trash in them for real. Is the filter in the tank? Do they have a sock/filter on them kinda like car in tank pump/filter does? We have a 2010 and it had it's tank off several times and never seemed to be an issue. He may post the video he made today of the bike running.
Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks.
How many hours are on the bike?
https://youtu.be/EwPg45U3Yb8
Nascarnate326 the bike itself has roughly 130 hours on it. Give or take a little.
I run an additional sock filter in the filler neck of the tank on my CRF450. So essentially my fuel is getting filtered before it even gets to the pump filter. It's kind of a PITA because I have to pour the fuel in really slow but it beats having the bike cut out on a huge double like happened to my buddy.
http://motocrossactionmag.com/news/mxa-team-tested-splitstream-fuel-fil…
MXA says they didn't have to pour the fuel any slower. I call massive BS on that one. I have to pour very slow. The fuel actually flows through the filter mesh very fast but the filter ring fits so snug in the neck of the tank that it can't vent fast enough to allow the displaced air to escape. It's only got these 2 little gaps to allow venting. It's a compromise because if they put more/bigger gaps then in theory dirt could bypass the filter.
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