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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
In hindsight, I think the lainer kit is better value and less hassle.
If your forks are old and the cartridge seals need serving then the skf kit is good value
From Inntek YouTube video I cannot understand if securing punches are sticking out from the cartridge body or they are “punched in” the cartridge?
What’s their purpose? Prevent the cartridge bolt to unscrew?
What happen if I try to unscrew the bolt leaving the securing punches as they are?
How did you deal with it?
Look at Bruce's 3rd picture on page 1 showing the tool he made. you can see his tool fit into the seal case and just below where it meets the cartridge you can also see the dimple/securing punch. there is 4 total and you need to use a drill bit just larger than the dimple, maybe 2-2.5mm dia, and drill through the dimple just enough to hit the seal case, but not go through the seal case. That will relieve the peening/dimple pressing into the threads of the seal case and allow you to unscrew it from the cartridge.
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Are the ones showed in Bruce picture already drilled out?
Speaking for myself, I really don't feel comfortable to the idea of using a drill. Maybe a drill press / column drill could help but still... the only idea to get close to my cartridge with a drill make me sweat.
The alternative is to buy the innteck Rivetted Cartridge Removal Tool but is quite expensive : 149,9$
The big source of sticking is the oem air piston, so that's what I would change out first and not worry about the cartridge seals.
As slip says, the traditional way of opening the cartridge is drilling them out, I've done it on older showas that needed new seals, but I just couldn't bring myself to start drilling these new forks even though that was the original plan.
The lainer racing piston is a bargain in comparison, plus, he sells two specific pistons so you don't need to deal with the oring and steel cap used on the kxf /rmz convo
I noticed in both video that the drilled holes go through the case, but, as slipdog said, with Showa Sff air tac you DON’T want to go through the case.
“The big source of sticking is the oem air piston, so that's what I would change out first and not worry about the cartridge seals.”
If I understand correctly, it means I could avoid drilling and taking out the 22mm head bolt and still be able to replace the oem piston?
Thank You guys
Also, has any one done a fairly simple revavle of the kx tac fork to improve initial stroke plushness?
Thanks
Pit Row
My 2016 KX450F is one year old and has 20 hrs on it. Would you suggest getting the Lainer piston to help with the stiction problem or go with the glide kit?
Also, is there a link to a video on how to do the piston? Or do you have a step by step you can share and the special tools needed? I only saw the one video when the fork was already apart.
it makes a significant difference on the RMZ, but i dont know whether the 2016 KXF450 fork was already upgraded for lower friction.
On the RMZ, it uses 3 seals on the air cartridge rod, whereas the SKF setup uses one seal that employs 3 sealing lips. The SKF air piston is well made also and easilly installed into the air cartridge.
In terms of tools, i ended up drilling the peens to dissemble the cartridge- if you look on youtube for showa cartridge seals, there are several videos that show how this is done.
The box with the seals has a small piece of paper explaining which seal goes on which side
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