16 KTM 350 SXF, getting more juice

The big bore kit a part number 2016.ktm.450sxf



Aren't they the same weight anyway?

Have you looked at your lap times yet? The 350 feels slow at first..but its not.

I'd checkout your ignition mapping options & maybe remapping the EFI.

I've got the opposite problem, I'm going to dampen my XCF 350 down a bit, but then again my riding is single track.

The 350 is never going to be a torque monster, it begs to be revved to the moon like the 250. Better to buy a 450 and short shift if you want some pull.

Yep. Are you remembering to rev it? To ride a 350 well you have to ride it like a 250 two stroke, do not be afraid to be aggressive.

Exactly. It's just a little smoother.

You could always put a 450SX head on it...like how all those 250SX riders, put a 300XC head on it for more power.

Lots of info here - http://motocrossactionmag.com/news/ask-the-mxpert-can-you-give-me-2016-ktm-350sxf-tips

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Dear MXperts,
I just bought a brand-new 2016 KTM 350SXF. It is the first time I’ve ever owned a KTM and, obviously, the first time I’ve ever owned a 350. I need to get up to speed as fast as possible. Please tell me what I need to know about my 350SXF because I know nothing.

How much do you want to know? Here are few 2016 KTM 350SXF tips.

1. Shock spring. You didn’t say how much you weigh or what class you race, but the stock 48 N/m shock spring is too stiff for anyone under 180 pounds. If you weigh less than 180 pounds you will not be able to get any preload on the shock spring. We run the 45 N/m shock spring from the 250SXF. The shock needs to have preload on it—if you can’t get preload on the spring for your weight, then you need a lighter spring. We run the low-speed compression at 15 out, the high-speed at 1-3/4 turns out and the rebound on 10.

2. Race sag. We run 105mm of sag. KTM recommends 110mm of sag, but this is way too much and not only eats up shock shaft travel, but kicks the head angle out so much that you have to slide the forks up very high in the clamps to get the bike to turn.

3. Peak power. The KTM 350SXF makes makes 54.41 horsepower, which is more than a CRF450 makes, but it makes its peak horsepower at 13,200 rpm. That means that if you shift before peak, you will get less horsepower. Thus, you should never shift. To help with this high-rpm necessity, we run a 51-tooth sprocket. It tightens up the ratios and helps get to 13,200 rpm quicker. We repeat—do not shift.

4. Sprocket bolts. Watch the sprocket bolts. They come loose all the time. Check the ones next to the rear rim lock every time you ride. It is the indicator of trouble to come.

5. Tubes. The stock tubes are very thin and light Pirelli tubes. You will get flat tires with these tubes.

6. Neutral. Neutral is hard to find in the pits, but that is so that you can’t accidentally hit it on the track.

7. WP 4CS forks. The 2016 forks are lightyears better than previous WP forks. Unlike in the past, you can ride with them without too much drama. Fast test riders turn them in (stock comp and rebound are 15 clicks out). We’ve had Pros run them at 1 click out, 6 clicks out and when Mike Alessi rode our bike he turned them to 11 clicks out. Slower riders will be happy in the 12 to 16 click range. Never in the past have we been able to turn WP clickers inward—because the forks were also too harsh to begin with. These are not the greatest forks on the showroom floor, that honor belongs to Yamaha’s SSS forks, but they are decent production forks.

8. Exhaust pipe. To remove the exhaust pipe you have to remove the rear shock. There is a trick to doing this, which we showed in the August issue. Aftermarket pipes don’t need to have the shock removed.

9. Battery. When cold weather arrives you should pre-heat the Iron Phosphate (LiFeP04) battery before trying to start the bike. We touch the starter button enough to activate the starter, but not enough to get the bike to turn over. When you do this you can hear the starter clicking over (or feel it with your hand on the gas tank). We do this two or three times. Why? Because Iron Phosphate batteries get stronger as they get warmer. Then, once we have the battery preheated we pulled the choke down (not up) and start the bike.

10. Shift lever. We have broken two shift lever tip springs in the past couple weeks. The spring that makes the tip flip in and out snaps. When it happens at the track, we wrap duct tape around the tip to keep it in position so we can race. Because the tip is riveted on, there is no simple way to replace the spring. KTM tells us that they have a better spring already in the works, but we don’t know what that means to people who already have their bike.

11. Spokes. The rear spokes will come loose for a very long time. It takes them quite a while to seat. Always watch the spokes next to the rim lock. If they are loose, then the rest of the spokes are on there way. We check the spokes at every race (and sometimes between motos).

12. Maps. There is a switch on the right side of the handlebars that allows you to choose between the stock map and aggressive map or mellow map. We always run the aggressive map. When the switch is in the forward position the bike will always be on the stock map. When the switch is moved rearward to the two dash marks, it will be in whatever map you select on the map selector dial in the airbox. In the upper right hand corner of the airbox is an rubber-covered dial. Pull the rubber cover back and you will see a dial with ten numbers on it. Whatever number you choose on this dial, will be the map on the rearward switch position. But, there is a trick. Map #1 is the mellow map, map #2 is the aggressive map and maps #3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0 are all stock maps. If you choose 3, 4, 5, 6, 7,8, 9 ,0 then both switch positions will be stock maps. We put the dial on #2 (you have to look closely to see the white triangle on the side of the dial that indicates what number you are on).

13. Launch control. The 2016 KTMs have launch control. You activate it by flicking the map selector switch back and forth. When launch control is engage the EFI light, behind the front number plate, will flash rapidly. Be forewarned. Launch control will only stay engaged for three minutes or until you rev the engine and then let the rpm fall off 30 percent or more. What does that mean? If you engage launch control on the starting line and then blip the throttle or do a burn-out, you will no longer be in launch control. And, you have to turn the bike off to re-engage launch control. The best strategy is to wait until just before the board turns sideways, then flick the switch to activate launch control. Once you begin to rev the engine up be careful not to let the rpm fall off. If you do, you will revert back to whatever map you chose. It is very tricky to hold steady rpm in the rush of the start process.

14. Fuel filter. KTM installs inline fuel filters in their gas lines. They can be accessed via the quick release fitting on the fuel line. You can flick the small nylon filter out and check it for debris. They can be back flushed or replaced. Clogged filters hurt the fuel pressure and flow. Be very careful to make sure that the fuel line clicks back together completely. We have had the quick releases pop off because we didn’t get them clicked.

15. Shock preload adjustment. When we need to adjust the preload on the rear shock, we do not hit the red shock collar with a hammer. Instead, we turn the shock spring by hand while using a long flat-bladed screwdriver to pry against the frame and the shock collar at the same time. If you hit the nylon shock collar with a hammer and punch, you will deform the notches.

16. Rear brake pedal spring. Turn your rear brake pedal spring around so that the tangs on the spring face inward. If they face outward, you can hit them with your boot and unhook the spring. We also crimp the tangs once they are turned around to make them fit tight to the pedal.

17. Gas cap. The gas cap sticks. Be careful not to torque it on too tight because sometimes it takes Mr. Universe to get it off.

18. Ignition cover plug. The small Allen plug on the back of the ignition cover can leak oil (although not enough to create any major issues, but it does make a mess). This plug can be sealed with high-temp silicone. The Allen doesn’t attach to anything, it is there to block a hole that was drilled in the case during manufacturers to make an internal oil line make a 90-degree bend.

19. Dunlop MX32 tires. The MXA wrecking crew loves the MX32 tires that come stock on the 2016 KTMs—especially the front in comparison to the MX52 that come as OEM equipment on many 2016 bikes. But, be forewarned, if you push the MX32 front out of its intermediate terrain, you will begin to lose side knobs on the front tire. These are race-quality premium tires—and when used on the wrong terrain they will wear prematurely.
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Go to the link if you want the pics.

You definitely need to rev it. Get one of the hour meters that track max RPM you rode at during a session and see where you are at. I had a '13 and like you (maybe) I thought it was lacking "hit". I had the hour meter with tach and found I was only around 9k max rpm. I thought I was reving it but wasn't, as stated above max HP is way above this. Started to ride without shifting as much and it pulled a lot more.

52 Rear Sprocket
VP U4.4 Race Fuel
FMF Mega-Bomb
Mapped on a Dyno if you can find someone reputable

Done.

Nah nah, I say fuck that. Ride the bitch like you stole it and it will move.

Just did a challenging "A loop" on my FE350...sometimes you do have to wind-it-up like a 250; but, it's -ALWAYS- waaaaaay more powerful than a 250 and waaaaaaay easier to "throw around" than a 450.

Looks like September 5, 2015. All I did was hit the search window on the MXA site for KTM 350. ( Can't offer any first hand tips as I'm more of a smoker guy myself )

There's more here - http://motocrossactionmag.com/?s=KTM+350

The 52 tooth rear sprocket is a big help

I thus do shall believe the entire point behind the bike, No?

I do not understand what you just said.....

Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?

I think you misread my post, the OP wanted to know if a 350 will pull...and the answer is it will never pull like a 450 as you say (and what I said), you have to rev it to go a fast speed, yes it will pull more than a 250 but really its a revving bike rather than a torque strong bike. So basically we said the same thing.

I can tell you that the 365 kit from Cylinder Works made a HUGE difference on mine on low to mid power. It makes it like what KTM should have made it, more like a small 450, than a big 250. Highly recommend it. I think for the newer ones, you have to get it remapped though.
http://motocrossactionmag.com/news/we-ride-cylinder-works-ktm-365sxf-big-bore-2

Man I've shredded on 16' 350, and I thought it freakin' ripped!- very fast motorcycle. Screams up top. I can't wait to get a 17' with air forks.

To each his own though-

I own a '14 kaw 450 and after riding a '16 350 I was pretty much depressed riding the kawi again. The 350 motor seems perfect but I did ride 250fs up until 2 years ago. Being able to ride the bike hard and rev it out was much more enjoyable than lugging the 450 and trying to ride smooth so it doesn't toss me off.

Anyway, just rev it out there is plenty of power!!

185lb, Over 30 expert desert guy here.. My 2015 350XC rips and the engine is stock. I've had 450's and there's no comparison when talking low end torque, but I feel like you have to be a lot more smooth and precise on a 450 of you will end up in the bushes. IMO, the 350 is near perfect.. I can ride as aggressive as I want and it doesn't try and eat me. I carry more speed thru the corners, and get back on the gas sooner. It doesn't try to stand up in the corners when you give it gas, doesn't try and wheelie, just goes..

I can't see needing more power unless you're really awesome good, and big.. Like 220

i just dropped my 250sxf off at Twisted Development for a hi comp piston, head work, vortex ecru with remap and race fuel. Also fmf mega bomb with a longer header to give it more bottom end.
http://td-racing.com/index.html

hmm sounds interesting

Who's the go to for remapping the ecu for the fuel? I was thinking Tokyo Mods or Vortex? I want the option to be able to switch between U4/pump.

You need to rev the crap out of the bike .has loads of power then . You could hear AC222 coming a mile away because his revs were so high , not quite as high as MM25 tho . i ve never heard anyone in high revs as much as him .