Modernizing/ rebuilding a 2002 CR250R

reded
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reded 1/19/2015 8:09am
1/19/2015 8:09am
Notice that it says "etching" and for "rough cast"aluminum. Don't waste your time with the other type of wheel cleaners.
DanCaughell331 1/19/2015 8:21am
1/19/2015 8:21am
reded wrote:
Notice that it says "etching" and for "rough cast"aluminum. Don't waste your time with the other type of wheel cleaners.[img]http://ep.yimg.com/ay/rodi/eagle-one-mag-wheel-cleaner-23-oz-11.png[/img]
Notice that it says "etching" and for "rough cast"aluminum. Don't waste your time with the other type of wheel cleaners.
Reded so you think something like that would do the trick to get all the deep stains out of the inner frame spars and around the swing arm pivot? (Where the majority of the dirty parts are)
reded
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reded 1/19/2015 9:23am
1/19/2015 9:23am
Yep. Works wonders on hubs, fork lugs, entire brake system and everything else that's cast aluminum.
DanCaughell331 1/19/2015 11:50am
1/19/2015 11:50am
Okay frame is bare and is ready to get pressure washed/ hit with aluminum cleaner. Then after I'm a little more healed from surgery I'll get it sanded bare and ready for assembly







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reded
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reded 1/19/2015 12:50pm
1/19/2015 12:50pm
Go buy a soft bristle toothbrush before using the aluminum cleaner. Spray the stuff on and agitate it with the brush in every little nook and cranny and even on the large flat surfaces. You'll be amazed at how much dirt still comes out of the pores after 2-3 cleanings.
DanCaughell331 1/19/2015 1:44pm
1/19/2015 1:44pm
reded wrote:
Go buy a soft bristle toothbrush before using the aluminum cleaner. Spray the stuff on and agitate it with the brush in every little nook and...
Go buy a soft bristle toothbrush before using the aluminum cleaner. Spray the stuff on and agitate it with the brush in every little nook and cranny and even on the large flat surfaces. You'll be amazed at how much dirt still comes out of the pores after 2-3 cleanings.
Got it all cleaned up, that aluminum cleaner did pretty good. Only downfall is that after it's rinsed it still leaves a film of what looks like oxidation... It'll come off with a little scotch brite I think, but I'm worried about a black residue being left behind. Any tips for that? Here's what that residue looks like









DanCaughell331 1/19/2015 2:52pm
1/19/2015 2:52pm
Call me crazy, but I don't think it's supposed to look like that... A mixture of the reed that got sucked and some detonation on the exhaust side. Guess that's what you get with a used bike. Haha



SeaClassExpert 1/19/2015 3:01pm
1/19/2015 3:01pm
Dude you need to get that head re-milled ASAP or buy a new one. Post pics of the cylinder's inside.
DanCaughell331 1/19/2015 3:21pm
1/19/2015 3:21pm
SeaClassExpert wrote:
Dude you need to get that head re-milled ASAP or buy a new one. Post pics of the cylinder's inside.
I plan on buying a brand new head, new OEM is only $89 so I might as well. And I'm buying a new cylinder as well, this one is way out of tolerance and the coating is flaked off on the exhaust bridge, as well as gouged on the transfer port.





reded
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reded 1/19/2015 5:01pm
1/19/2015 5:01pm
You may have to do it a few times on the rough cast and keep hitting it with the brush. The extruded pieces will clean up with red scotchbrite. Here's a pic of of one I did yesterday that looked 10x worse than what you started with.



reded
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reded 1/19/2015 5:03pm
1/19/2015 5:03pm Edited Date/Time 1/19/2015 5:08pm
Filed down the axle blocks as best I could then hit them with scotchbrite. They looked like total shit when I started. Probably have 30min in each one. This bike is a total POS and worn out worse than any I've ever seen but it was bought cheap enough that I can get it back to a good rider and still put a smile on someone's face.



mxBryan
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mxBryan 1/21/2015 9:46am
1/21/2015 9:46am
I also cleaned my frame with alloy wheel cleaner and high pressure water. I had the same problem as you had.
After washing it with water you need to dry the frame off as soon as possible and wipe off with brake cleaner, that's what i did.

Then finished with green scotchbrite and WD40, wipe off with brake cleaner or a cleaning solvent.



DanCaughell331 1/21/2015 6:31pm
1/21/2015 6:31pm
mxBryan wrote:
I also cleaned my frame with alloy wheel cleaner and high pressure water. I had the same problem as you had. After washing it with water...
I also cleaned my frame with alloy wheel cleaner and high pressure water. I had the same problem as you had.
After washing it with water you need to dry the frame off as soon as possible and wipe off with brake cleaner, that's what i did.

Then finished with green scotchbrite and WD40, wipe off with brake cleaner or a cleaning solvent.



Damn man that frame looks sweet! I'll have to try that to get the full shine, works bike look I'm going for. Just as soon as I'm out of this thing.... Removed scar tissue, two screws in the talus, and a calf incision to lengthen the muscle. Needs to heal so I can get this bike done and go rip!!

DanCaughell331 3/10/2015 7:04am
3/10/2015 7:04am
Well, after a full weekend of tooling around in the motor, I can't seem to get the cases split. Has anybody else had the same problem? It's the front of the case, near the front motor mount. Starting to think I have a dowel pin froze up.



DanCaughell331 3/10/2015 7:09am
3/10/2015 7:09am
I've also squired a few more goodies since last being on here, and there's more in the mail. Just waiting on this ankle to be a little stronger so I can spend more than an hour or two in the shop building the bike







Matt Fisher 3/10/2015 11:58am
3/10/2015 11:58am
You are using a proper case splitter, right?
-Make triple sure there are no screws left holding the cases together (like the ones in the stator area).
-Use a rubber mallet to whack at the cases in the area where they are sticking together.
-Heat from a propane torch may also help to persuade the cases to open.
-Tapping a large flat blade screwdriver ONLY on the area that sticks out that you were pointing at. Be very careful, as it's easy to damage the cases doing this.

If there's no chance you're going to rebuild the crankshaft then it's okay to bang on the ends of it too. Just resist the urge to use a screwdriver, drift, pry-bar, etc to pry open the cases. Marring the mating surface will only result in them needing to be replaced.
DanCaughell331 3/10/2015 1:59pm
3/10/2015 1:59pm
Matt Fisher wrote:
You are using a proper case splitter, right? -Make triple sure there are no screws left holding the cases together (like the ones in the stator...
You are using a proper case splitter, right?
-Make triple sure there are no screws left holding the cases together (like the ones in the stator area).
-Use a rubber mallet to whack at the cases in the area where they are sticking together.
-Heat from a propane torch may also help to persuade the cases to open.
-Tapping a large flat blade screwdriver ONLY on the area that sticks out that you were pointing at. Be very careful, as it's easy to damage the cases doing this.

If there's no chance you're going to rebuild the crankshaft then it's okay to bang on the ends of it too. Just resist the urge to use a screwdriver, drift, pry-bar, etc to pry open the cases. Marring the mating surface will only result in them needing to be replaced.
Matt I don't have a case splitter, just the rubber mallet/deadblow trick. I'm just a little thrown off because of all the motors I've rebuilt and split cases on, I've never had this issue. They usually separate with a couple whacks. I was pretty tired the other night working on it but there's only 2 bolts inside the flywheel cavity right? Hell, I may have been trying to split it and missed one. This is the first cr250 I've pulled apart, I've done multiple 450's and 250F's. I'd like to split it myself and not pay a shop 30 bucks for what would take 5 whole minutes
Matt Fisher 3/10/2015 8:58pm
3/10/2015 8:58pm Edited Date/Time 3/10/2015 8:58pm
Order this: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter?…
While you're at it, pick one of these up for re-assembly: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17166/Tusk-Crank-Puller-Instal…

I have the same tools and have split dozens of cases with them, including the 03 CR250 that I parted out. Those cases are long gone, otherwise I'd take a look at where the screws are located. If there are any in the stator area, remove them, though I seem to recall only 2 in there.

The RMATV tools are the best value I've found, and they work great (providing you've removed all the bolts holding the cases together- guess how I know that). They will cut down on your wrenching time and make life easier. Frankly, those tools would be worth the money if they were three times the price.

A particular RM125 motor I pulled apart a couple years ago required the case splitter, heat, excessive mallet pounding and extensive cursing. A prior owner had used some kind of near-epoxy like material to bond the cases together. Without the proper splitter tool, I would have needed a grenade.

Pit Row

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Slosh 112
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Slosh 112 3/11/2015 3:33am
3/11/2015 3:33am
I agree. First few motors I did without a flywheel puller or a 3 leg puller to split the cases... NEVER AGAIN!! . Motion Pro's clutch holding pliers are a toolbox must also.

How'd you smash your ankle?
DanCaughell331 3/11/2015 4:43pm
3/11/2015 4:43pm
Matt Fisher wrote:
Order this: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter?term=case%20splitter While you're at it, pick one of these up for re-assembly: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17166/Tusk-Crank-Puller-Installer-Tool?term=crankshaft%20tool I have the same tools and have split dozens of cases...
Order this: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter?…
While you're at it, pick one of these up for re-assembly: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17166/Tusk-Crank-Puller-Instal…

I have the same tools and have split dozens of cases with them, including the 03 CR250 that I parted out. Those cases are long gone, otherwise I'd take a look at where the screws are located. If there are any in the stator area, remove them, though I seem to recall only 2 in there.

The RMATV tools are the best value I've found, and they work great (providing you've removed all the bolts holding the cases together- guess how I know that). They will cut down on your wrenching time and make life easier. Frankly, those tools would be worth the money if they were three times the price.

A particular RM125 motor I pulled apart a couple years ago required the case splitter, heat, excessive mallet pounding and extensive cursing. A prior owner had used some kind of near-epoxy like material to bond the cases together. Without the proper splitter tool, I would have needed a grenade.
Matt I tried to get ahold of that case splitter through Rocky Mountain, but it was out of stock (damnit). I already have a flywheel puller and motion pro clutch holding tool so that's all taken care of, but that case splitter will be a definite purchase in the future.
DanCaughell331 3/11/2015 4:48pm
3/11/2015 4:48pm
Slosh 112 wrote:
I agree. First few motors I did without a flywheel puller or a 3 leg puller to split the cases... NEVER AGAIN!! . Motion Pro's clutch...
I agree. First few motors I did without a flywheel puller or a 3 leg puller to split the cases... NEVER AGAIN!! . Motion Pro's clutch holding pliers are a toolbox must also.

How'd you smash your ankle?
Its weird though, because my crf450's NEVER came apart that hard. Used to be pretty easy.

And it was from this damn bike I'm building hahah I was riding a track down in Salt Lake City and came up pretty short on a double out of a corner. Ended up snapping the Talus and mangling the cartilage into a pile of mush. Worst part is that it happened last May and 3 different doctors didn't catch it until I got an MRI in December. Meanwhile I'm trying to run and get ready for my PT test on it. (Don't trust on base military doctors is the moral of the story here)

But I should be 100% in late April. And then it's back to riding!

Cola22
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Cola22 3/11/2015 5:37pm
3/11/2015 5:37pm
Looks like a pretty cool build man, cant wait to see the finished product and good luck with the leg.
Matt Fisher 3/11/2015 10:25pm
3/11/2015 10:25pm
Ebay has a several of them around that price.

The crank puller is another item that seems almost silly until you need it, then it's like an ice cold drink when you're overheating.
JMX82
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JMX82 3/11/2015 11:58pm
3/11/2015 11:58pm
Here is my simple self made tool for case splitting








DanCaughell331 3/17/2015 3:20pm
3/17/2015 3:20pm
Cola22 wrote:
Looks like a pretty cool build man, cant wait to see the finished product and good luck with the leg.
Appreciate it man! Can't wait to finish the bike. It won't be completely finished for awhile but it will definitely have some serious progress.
DanCaughell331 3/17/2015 3:25pm
3/17/2015 3:25pm
Finally got cases split and (holy shit) it was quite the job. BUT, I did get new bearings and seals driven into the case, and the bottom end almost back together. Only thing holding me up is the dowel in the front. It's in pretty rough shape, and not sure if it's cast into the center case or supposed to be removable...???









DanCaughell331 3/17/2015 3:40pm
3/17/2015 3:40pm
JMX82 wrote:
Here is my simple self made tool for case splitting [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/03/11/83472/s1200_ulosvedin.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/03/11/83470/s1200_2014_11_28_18.49.25.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/03/11/83471/s1200_2014_11_28_18.36.24.jpg[/img]
Here is my simple self made tool for case splitting








JMX82 that's a pretty trick tool you made there. i'll have to get ahold of a machine shop around here and have them mill out some slots in a chunk of 5/16 steel. it would be cheaper than $70 for one through rocky mntn or motosport.
Cola22
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Cola22 3/18/2015 8:38pm
3/18/2015 8:38pm
Cola22 wrote:
Looks like a pretty cool build man, cant wait to see the finished product and good luck with the leg.
DanCaughell331 wrote:
Appreciate it man! Can't wait to finish the bike. It won't be completely finished for awhile but it will definitely have some serious progress.
The leg looks pretty serious but i hope when your bikes done your legs healed so you can brap the Sh*t out of that bike. Smile
DanCaughell331 3/22/2015 4:04pm
3/22/2015 4:04pm
Got the bottom end together this weekend, now just have to get oiling holes drilled in the piston before it's buttoned up and back in the chassis. Then I started getting the bike back together, test fit the new exhaust and front end. Anyone have experience with drilling the 09-12 crf fender to fit the triple clamps on here? don't mind the old seat cover. The new one from Motoseat should be here this week. but already I'm loving the way this bike is looking. Just need wheels to really set it off











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