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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
Got these a few weeks back
I was removing the bolts for the shrouds from the tank, and I have all out except for the last one. The screw insert on the last one is spinning free not allowing me to screw out the bolt - Any Ideas? I'd prefer to not cut the shroud off since it is still in good shape. This is an example of how they are moving. Has anyone run into this before? I figured once I get the last one out, I could epoxy these inserts back into the tank to ensure they don't spin out in the future.
Getting started on this motor, lots of corrosion - the wire wheel on drill bit has been handy.
Removed clutch for inspection, ordering new plates and springs today.
My bottom triple clamp and steerer tube were stuck in the frame as well, not sure if the bearing seized to the race or what. Anyways I used a piece of wood and hammer to smash the steerer tube down and break it free. It wasn't budging at first, so I hit it harder
I hope I answered your question, feel free to ask more or share any advice - sounds like we've hit a lot of the same issues.
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I found a dent in my head pipe, and got some other things to be ordered but progress is happening. I have been doing a lot of cleaning on the motor, so much corrosion. Anyways I ordered new cylinder cover seals since it was leaking. The guy I got the bike from had receipts for a fresh top and bottom end, supposedly with only 2 tanks of gas ran through it. When I got the bike it had a ton of compression and started first kick at all temperatures every time.
I don't know very much about the internals, I come from a mountain biking background so the chassis stuff comes pretty natural - and this is where my confidence/competence derails a bit. Anyways here are some pictures of the top of the piston, cylinder walls, and underneath the cover. I wouldn't know what I was looking for if it was staring me right in the face - so any observations/suggestions/thoughts would be nice. Ultimately, I was planning on just putting the cover back on, rip it for 6-8 hours and do a top end rebuild - probably go 144 on the second one around during winter when I have time to send it away
Johnboy
I will see who I can find for a quote on this cylinder head, If I can get it done for under $50 I will, otherwise I will just order a new one.
If I was to order a fresh top end kit plus expectations to get the cylinder honed - how would I size the piston rings? Would I need honing specs first? Thanks a lot for the response.
I am really looking forward to getting some seat time on this thing, I know it's going to be a momentum game aboard it, but it will be a good learning experience and a a whole lot of fun hearing her scream!
Less is more when it comes to preparing plated cylinders for a new piston. If your cylinder is within spec, very lightly scrub it with scotch brite and wd-40 to remove baked on deposits and carbon. Again less is more, if a couple spots are hard to remove, leave them be. After using scotch brite the cylinder needs to be washed with hot soapy water and a nylon bristle brush until a white paper towel can be wiped over the bore and come out clean. Dry the cylinder then immediately coat the bore with oil to prevent corrosion.
The manual will provide you with ring end gap specifications. Often they are in spec out of the box, but always check. It is a critical tolerance that has an effect on performance and piston life/reliability.
While the top end is off the connecting rod big end needs to be inspected. The service manual will provide the inspection procedure and specifications. You may have to use the service of a shop again as this usually requires a dial indicator. Honestly, you are just a few steps away from being able to split the cases. I would go ahead and do it so you could inspect the transmission and have the crankshaft rebuilt and bearings/seals replaced. With your manual in hand and a crankcase separator the job would only add an extra day to the job.
Your bike looks great from the outside, don't leave it in poor condition internally. You will enjoy it much more if it is running in top condition and without the heartache, danger and added expense of a failure.
Johnboy
Sitting in pine sol before the rebuild kit and hoses
So now my dilemma is with my tank. I finally got the seized screw out it really was a battle. I'm thinking, clear the debris and fill with apoxy to secure this insert. Any suggestions or thoughts on this?
Things should move pretty quick so I will keep you all updated.
Motor shot before adding pipe
I went to install the pipe last night and ran into some issues, I think my subframe is bent and I am hoping some of you can help me with this. The silencer isn't lining up at all right now.
And when I try and force it, this is my connection point.....
Also - the little hook on the silencer by the connecting point, is that for a spring? is there something that pulls and snugs the silencer into the head pipe. Now with all this bad fitment, I know why the bike was spitting oil from this connection when I got it, because a proper seal could't be made.
I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE AND FEEDBACK/THOUGHTS
The subframe cant be bent that far....thats a long way off.
Do you still have the stock pipe??? try the stock pipe on the bike and see if that FMF silencer fits, Then try your new pipe and see if your stock silencer fits.
FWIW, on my RM250, the stock silencer was the exact same size as the FMF.
Pit Row
About the fitment, as Bruce mentioned, my pipe (doma) has one fat o-ring and the only silencers I have used (doma and bud racing) mount to the lower subframe mount and don't use the top/rear.
I am going to order all of the mounting pieces. As for the rubber connector - it's about $70!!!!!! Any suggestions for an aftermarket one or a better source?
Thanks.
So, first:
Put pipe on, connect springs
Put silencer on, and move everything around until that problem hole lines up. Put a bolt in, LOOSE.
Work your way from each end, putting bolts in as you go. Leave them all loose until the end, and then tighten them from the pipe, backwards towards the silencer.
When I put everything on my 03 CR 125, the silencer hole was off by about 1/2" until I did this process.
I know it says for Honda but most 125 exhausts are the same size.
Thanks for the input guys. I think I need to gather the rest of the mounting hardware to get a real idea on fitment.
I am more surprised every day by how much of a useless f&*% the previous owner of this bike was, like did he just have the exhaust dangling.
Oh well, I am here to save you Rm
on the rubber collar, ive used radiator hose before no problems.
let me do some digging.
What do you have? That would be very much APPRECIATED! I get stuff shipped here all the time it is no problem, especially when you are sending me something vs. purchasing from a store.
Let me know what you come up with, thanks a lot for the consideration - really appreciate it.
KR
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