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We are fortunate to have many master builders on this board, and the craftsmanship and attention to detail
is really really a great thing to be able to witness from all these gentlemen.
The know-it-all BS on this board wears me out at times, but the redemption comes in these threads.
Keep it up bros,
Sincerely
PS
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I can't wait to get her finished and then get out there and get her dirty! I've registered, and payed my entry for the first few rounds of our championship... In the 250 twinshock class, on my 1980 CR250 and the EVO class on this.... I hope I can get her finished in time!!
Funny you should mention the forks FTE.... My friend Keith keeps on at me to get the forks coated or anodised magnesium bronze/brown. I'm not sure... I was considering having them Kashima coated (like modern factory stuff) but it's expensive... so I'm exploring other avenues....
Stevie
Have you thought about having them hard anodized dark grey or black? That would be pretty close in appearance to the works sliders and would protect them, too, as well as reducing oil contamination?
This could be an alternative if you run into issues with the stock shock.
Steve Marpes of Vintage Ohlins made a brand new Ohlins shock for my '86 in 2009, so he has the specs to do a new one. Steve's a great guy, and you can find him (and his company) on FB. Steve worked at Ohlins for decades, as I understand it they basically let him do the vintage stuff under their banner with Ohlins parts, but he's running the vintage stuff as his own company.
Anyway, it was top-notch work and hey-- a brand new, custom-built Ohlins, right? The catch is, it's spendy, IIRC it was about $800-$850.
One other thing to think about, many folks have had great success with Race Tech. Their service is great, they have in stock all kinds of parts for the older bikes, and their Gold Valves for the forks have a great rep.
Your work so far has just floored me, you have a great gift! It's been a blast to see your skill, Stevie! Awesome stuff.
I like that I get a 'tag' in there Stevie!
I managed to get the shock apart.
Its actually an '85 shock god knows how its ended up with it, but its pretty much the same as the '86 so its staying. My original plan was to just junk it and fit a Works Performance unit. I changed my mind and decided to do something more "interesting". Im going to use a Works cartridge unit. Basically it replaces everything everything that goes into the body, all the valving, the damper rod, lower adjuster, everything. The body and res are out being vapour plasted to clean them up... they were in a pretty crappy shape!
Once back in the shop I'll get them on the mill, and the lathe to clean them up so they look good.
Oh, these beauties arrived!! They are out for powder coating at the moment, I should be getting them back on Friday.
the conversion is bolt on if a find the good springs for my 87 cr 250 ?
They need a bit of trimming to get them to fit and I haven't sorted the springs out yet. I'm not that happy with the fitment, they are a bit higher (12mm) than the stock pegs so I'm looking at other options...
I have an '87 frame in the shop I'll see what the fitment is like tomorrow.
Stevie
Pit Row
The bag.. ok, 2 bags full of new and NOS parts were ready to go!
That clip board? Every part NOS or "new" (not including the parts I've made) that are being fitted are being recorded.... thats how many are on the chassis so far...
I started with the barrel. I managed to find a pair of NOS exhaust valves! The rest of the engine parts were a combination of at least 2 motors. Most from the replacement motors! All the "old" parts were thoroughly cleaned, and returned to "as new" condition.
Barrel went back together perfectly, I made al, new studs in 431 stainless steel. They are EXACTLY as per the original items just in high tensile stainless.
All new OEM bearings.
The gear box is made up of 3 different 'boxes. But i've ended up with a 'box that is absolutely perfect, No wear no nothing!
Nice new crank. The original was pretty beat. It was possible to re build it, but the tins had had a right battering, so I went with a new item.
I ended up making a crank puller tool. I know you don't "need" one.... it "can" be done with brute force...... but I really didn't want to go down that road!
On my Rockets I don't use one at all, they go together SO easy.... but they are 30 yrs old!! With this one its a little different, with the new crank... everything is a lot "tighter".
Billet Mitaka clutch basket. We use them In our Rockets and have never had an issue with them in 4 years! Great quality, and a great price!!
One thing I do with all billet baskets is to chamfer the very inside edge of the plate slots. They tend to be very sharp and it can cause the clutch plates to break at the bottom of the "ears". Clutch plates have a radius at the base of the ears so the sharpe edge of the basket can dig in and cause them to break. Chamfering them with a file doesn't effect how the basket wears as (once chamfered) there is no contact with the clutch plate on the corner. These baskets have been in my Rocket for 4 season and show no signs of wear at all!!!
The power-valve parts and water pump impeller were pretty badly corroded, a quick trip to the bead blaster sorted them out! They looked brand new!!
The water pump plate is freshly zinc plated. I know its not really seen.... but I know it's there....
Really enjoying watching this bike take shape. Had an 86 250 that got stolen, and just love the way they look.
Nice to hear positives about the mitaka baskets. Had heard a couple of good things before I bought one, so great to hear they hold up well. Definitely look like a much better part than I was expecting when I opened the box.
Fresh Nikasil.... mmm
We use Wiseco Piston and ALL our motor builds. No one comes close!! Absolutely the best there is!!
Boysen Pro Reeds. I wouldn't normally go for these. We use std Boysen reeds on all our Rocket builds but these came in months ago as they were sent by mistake by our supplier.... (the '86 and Rocket have the same reed fitment).. I asked Pops "can I use these?"..... "Well.... you gonna fit them to your 1980?"... "No".... "So fit them!"
Full Titanium both kit. The studs are 431 stainless, but the base nuts are Titanium.
The dome nuts are 431 Stainless. I would have done the in Titanium but tapping blind threads is hard enough as it is, i Titanium.... no chance!!
On the factory bikes they ran copper sealing washers (the stock bike didn't use them) just like the old 60's bikes. The copper washers super-ceed to alloy washer... I didn't have enough copper in the shop to make the washer (its SO dammed expensive!!!) so I went with alloy. They work just as well and stop any chance of the dome nuts bottoming out.
I managed to get the last NOS output shaft collar. I drew it up put it back in it's packet and made a titanium one!!
Waiting for the new Powervalve adjuster screw, lock nut and base nut to arrive so that can be closed up.
The stock clutch cover is only fitted to close up the motor, the "Honda Racing" ones should be back next week.
I ended up making the the power-valve rack stopper screw in Ti. It looked so wrong against the rest of the motor in its stock "drab green". The TI version matches in with the rest of the case screws perfectly!!
The 3 drain plugs (2 coolent, 1 oil) I've done is stainless. Getting the + in the head is a right pain in the ass but its all in the details!! Gotta be right!!
I've always loved the '86 colours, the blue, red and gold is such a good combo!
Mitata stuff is really good value. The baskets are 7075 alloy and hard anodised, just like the other "premium brands". We use there Rod kits aswell. 4 seasons on my Rocket so far, including 3 VetsMXdN with Stanton, Hughes and Cooper giving my 1980 Rocket the beans each time!
If I do I'll use the stock pegs as a base to work from.
Post a reply to: 1986 CR 250 RC project/rep/build up.. IT'S FINISHED!!!