Upgrade to enjoy this feature!
Vital MX fantasy is free to play, but Premium users receive great benefits. Premium benefits include:
- View and download rider stats
- Pick trends
- Create a private league
- And more!
Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
Anyone who has done this before have any suggestions on the grit additive in the clear? I'm leaning towards just leaving it slick for easy cleanup.
The Shop
Free shipping: VITALMX
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
http://www.motorheadextraordinaire.com/2-junk-yard-specials
I've used it before, and actively worked over it for 3 years without issues. But it certainly isn't perfect - tire marks build up over time (that may be the case with any epoxy coating, and they mop off anyway); you could also see some lap-marks from rolling the product on.
A friend of mine invested 6k into an epoxy coating business (product, license, plus training to be an installer), and the stuff was awful - peeled up within days (don't recall the brand though - I'll ask him for my own curiosity).
The only time I find our floor slippery is during winter when I come into the garage with snow packed in my shoes. That may not even be a factor for you though.
Also, the floor sweeps and mops up so easily without the grit.
Regarding the anti-slip additive that some say is not needed, they are wrong. I have used the exact product the OP is putting down and it will be slick without the grit when it gets wet. Just ask the manufacturer, thats why they recommend it.
The usage of a non-skid-additive is subjective in my opinion and I think a lot of it depends on where you live. I was in Vegas when I tried the additive and like I said, I hated it. A lot.
I believe Newmann is in TX, so he won't need to worry about winter / snow / water-on-shoes, etc. I personally would not add it, but again, it's subjective.
I'm about to rent that machine again; the house we just moved into had the garage floor done in regular "porch and floor paint" which of course is 50% flaked off. 'Need to get that crap off completely before using epoxy.
The actual epoxy in this kit is probably the same or similar type as the epoxy coat link, 100% solids....thick stuff! Supposed to be 23 mil with the clear.
As far as the non skid material they sent, it is a very fine powder. I may make a small test panel to see what it looks like. The area I'm doing is air conditioned so there should be no weather related moisture issues with the floor sweating and such. Just what gets spilled or tracked in. I'll have a few floor mats by the doors to eliminate some of that. Mainly like the idea of easy cleanup.
I've used other epoxy floor paints in the past, did about 5000 sq ft here at my shop a dozen or so years ago straight over new muriatic acid washed cement. No primers or clears and was a two coat application. Excellent adhesion but over time has scratched and worn through in places. Wanted this one to be permanent. Cost about $1300.00- 1400.00 for everything to do 750 sq ft. so fingers are crossed!
As far as anti-slip product there are 3 recomendations I have if you are going to go that route. Sherwin williams makes a plastic additive called "shark grip by HTC" that can be used in sealers or epoxy's. 2nd, A company called Concrete Solutions in CA has a crushed aluminum that can be used. 3rd, You could always use a fine/medium silica sand (probably the most aggressive, as far as traction is concerned). All three when used in moderation will barely be visable. I've seen the shark grip and silica sand first hand. I've sold the aluminum before but have not seen the finished product.
Most expoy systems fails beause of lack of prep. Mechanical prep is the best but usually not the most economical for residential users. Another issue that causes failure is moisture moving through the slab. Most users fail to do moisture tests before starting to determine suitability of the slab.
I did not use all the additive and now wish I had and It is no problem sweeping the armorgarage clear topcoat with the additive in it.
The price gap is huge on the various levels of product - that Rustoleum Epoxy I plan to use for my garage, is $100 per 500sqft. Since it's just for my garage where all the vehicles are parked, I'm using it. It works pretty well. But for my 30x40 shop I plan to build for my cars and motorcycles, I'll amp that up and try the higher-end stuff with a better and more glossy appearance.
Pit Row
The Armor Garage high end floor coating is what I call a three part epoxy coat, it has the primer coat (which is actually a 2 part primer), then the epoxy coat (which is 2 part epoxy), and finally the urethane top coat (which you mix the anti-skid material with).
The epoxy coat like the armor garage use a 100% solids epoxy which is the best type of epoxy and gives the thickest coat. Way better than any of the water based epoxies. For our shop I wanted to be able to drive our bobcat on it and fork lift without damage and primer for increased bonding and the more durable top coat seemed like the way to go.
Post a reply to: Home workshop floor suggestions....