Concrete starts

Haven't been on one since Troy quite a few years ago. Most will tell you to do a burnout to get your tires hot/sticky, but if you are like most, tires are too expensive for that shit. I would just do what you normally do.

There is no traction on the concrete, you want to get to the dirt where the traction is as fast as possible without to much wheelspin, try to sit more upright with your weight centered, don't dump the clutch, it should be a controlled and steady release with enough throttle to get to the dirt. Concrete starts take a lot of practice and concentration but when mastered you can holeshot ever time. Good Luck

dont spin the tire. just give the clutch a couple flicks (mainly to get the dirt off the tire) have weight more toward the back of the bike. when on the concrete dont drop the clutch like dirt, in a sense roll off the concrete then when on the dirt harmmer down!

thats how i was taught... some may have other methods.

This, it is important to be seated more towards the center of the bike, as opposed to being over the front. I always did a small burnout and the do a couple quick dumps of the clutch to practice my jump off the line. I would also not use my holeshot device off concrete...and i always did pretty well. Most important thing is to bring some type of broom or brush to wipe off the concrete.

Just freaking pop the clutch bro

i like to spin the tire but only for a couple seconds, kind of like zghosty said to get the dirt off and get some fresh rubber down.

get it too hot or spin it too long and it will get gooey, you won't get any traction.

also, i like to practice a couple times after i get my bike started, find where a good seating position will be that will get plenty of weight on the rear tire but not so much that you wheelie. also you can't be too far forward or you will have zero traction and just spin.

the track i race at locally has a concrete pad and i've always nailed great starts, just practice a few times and get the feel for it

Like these guys said, pretty much. I usually chirped the tire a couple of times to get a feel for the traction. Butt over the footpegs, sit straight up instead of leaning forward. I usually started a gear higher on concrete too, which means you gotta really feed the clutch. One of my profile pics is of me ripping a nasty hollie off of a concrete pad.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

also clean all the loose dirt off the concrete, on a YZ 250, I would start in 3rd gear

Leave a little bit of dirt on the sides of the gate where the bar is going to fall and hit the concrete.
That way it won't bounce off the hard surface.

We have watched a guy lined up next to my kid get stuck after his gate hit the clean concrete and bounced back up catching his front tire.

i always try to start with my feet behind the pegs, really easy on the clutch ready to get the wait forward when you hit the dirt,
i just do small burnout to clean the tyre,

^^^^^

Ryno and Shorty have good video's on this.

Practice releasing the clutch where you see just the knobby marks and not a solid line (spinning).

No knobby marks, be a little more aggressive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCNlonwpWVg

This is my formula for holeshots off concrete and it works pretty good 7 holeshots out of 10 motos in the last few months isnt bad granted they were not all concrete starts. My wife does the sweeping(loose dirt off concrete) I then put my back tire as far to the edge of the pad as I can. 2nd gear and start creeping forward trying to time the gate drop. once the gate drops feather the clutch some what till the rear tire is in the dirt then straight to the back of the seat clicking gears. Ez as that. Timing is everything.

Concrete Starts

When you start on cement, the first thing you need to do is make sure that the pad is free of all debris. Before you roll your bike to the gate, be sure to sweep the pad free and clean of debris. This is crucial because any loose dirt or stones on the starting pad will greatly reduce available traction. You will want to be sure and push your bike gently up to your starting spot and be sure to hold your bike upright so no fuel drains from the overflow tubes. Gasoline is oil based and will make the start pad slick, once again reducing traction.

When you get up to your starting spot, take a look to your right and left to see where other riders are positioned. Make sure that you are close enough to the gate so you aren't behind everyone's handlebars, but be certain you are a comfortable distance away from it as well. There is nothing worse than not being sure if the gate is going to fall on your front wheel!

When you have your bike in your starting location, many riders will heat the rear tire up a bit to make it tackier. To do this, hold your front brake hard while at the same time easing on the throttle and releasing the clutch slightly. This will make your rear tire begin to spin. This will also clean debris off your knobbies on the rear wheel to maximize rubber to cement contact. You are spinning the tire simply to make sure it is clean, so this does not need to be done for a long period of time. No need for a giant smoke cloud!

When you start on concrete, you'll want both feet on the ground and you'll want to be seated in the pocket of the seat. Have your head centered over the triple clamps and your elbows up. This will make sure that you're weight is distributed as evenly as possible and it will help prevent your rear tire from spinning: two things that can cause you major problems on a concrete starting gate if you're not careful. Also, have both feet in front of the pegs when in the starting position. This will help you to stay in the pocket and not slide back on the seat. Hold one finger lightly on the front brake so you don't creep forward and focus all of your attention on the pin that actuates the gate fall. When the 30-second board goes sideways, focus all of your attention on the gate and wait for it to drop. One last note: don't put the bike into gear too early just to hold the clutch in. This will cause your clutch plates to heat up and can lead to clutch fatigue mid race.

Also, when starting on concrete you'll typically want to start in second gear. This will help the bike get off the concrete smoothly, with less spin. At the 5 second board you can increase your RPM's and find the friction point in the clutch where it is just starting to grab. When the gate drops, evenly release the front brake and fully engage the clutch. When your back tire clears the start pad and you're fully on the dirt, move your weight forward, shift to the next gear and you're off.

http://motocrossactionmag.com/Main/News/Getting-off-to-a-good-Start-348…

Here ya go:

If you use these techniques you will be up front for sure.

https://youtu.be/Zahni9zHNvw

Pick a gate with an expansion joint running up the center. Everyone's advice is good but this is key. Most concrete starts have 2 or 3 gates with expansion joints, when you release the clutch your knobs will twist into the joint grabbing traction instead of spinning. It dosen't matter what gate it is because when you launch out 2-3 bikes ahead of everyone you can holeshot from anyplace on the pad.