Posts
103
Joined
5/18/2009
Location
Saint Charles, IA, USA
Edited Date/Time
1/18/2016 1:34pm
I noticed somebody said try a brembo setup and didn't' know what the best way to come closest to getting the stopping power of those ktms....
You can add steel-braided brake lines and an oversized rotor. Also, good brake pads (whatever those are) are a must.
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Cheap and easy and you may be satisfied.
PS- go to the Booneville sand pit, today. I will be there 12-3.
Jimi J
At one point, Reed (I think it was Reed) was running a one-off front brake caliper that was custom machined and the tolerances were so tight it didn't require seals. I don't remember which bike this was. Probably cost more than a brand new bike.
For the KX, get a braided steel line first. It will make a notable difference. I jumped to a braided steel line AND oversized rotor and it was way too much front brake for me.
Pit Row
This is the same one on Trey's bike:
The Kawasaki calipers are made out of magnesium:
"I can only go as fast as my front brake will let me." - Ricky Carmichael
Bike: 2005 YZ 250 w/ SSS forks from a 2009 YZ250f.
I bought a used 2007 KTM 250SX-F front brake setup for $142 shipped off eBay. My buddy tried same setup on his 2013 RMZ 450 which is what gave me the idea.
I took the mounting bracket off the brembo caliper and tried to see how well it lined up with the stock holes on the bottom of my forks. It turns out the stock top hole and this other unused hole on the brembo bracket lined up 100% perfectly with the stock fork holes. See picture below. Where my thumb is on the bottom is the new hole you will be using to mount this caliper. You will notice the new hole does not have a raise edge like the top so the caliper wont line up even, the use of spacers are required to make this work anyway so using 1 more spacer on the bottom did the job.
Here it is mounted to the stock holes on my SSS forks.
Next comes the issue of once you put that caliper on the bracket and try and line up the bolt holes again you'll notice it does not work because the edge of the caliper assembly is now overlapping the mounting hole. See picture below.
Here is where you need to decide if you want to grind some material off your fork bracket and the edge of the caliper. If not.. your best option is to just use the master cylinder and steel braided line and buy an oversized rotor and call it a day. I did not mind. "In My Opinion" there is plenty of material to work with to where saftey, rigidity, etc.. is maintained. I am no engineer nor do I claim to be. Pics below of how much material I ground off. I did make the mistake of grinding too much material on the caliper which was irreversible. I did have to buy a second 2007 250sxf used caliper only assembly this time for $65 and try again with grinding more off the fork side and less off the caliper side.
Here is the fitment still a little too tight as the slide pin is not centered. You want this to be centered so you can put the stock rubber grommet back in to resist vibration and movement.
Here is the finished product. I ended up needing to take more off the fork side and less off the caliper side on this second caliper. I have about 2mm of gap between the fork bracket and calpier now which is plenty as these two peices are one with each other the only movement needed is side to side as the pads wear down and the caliper needs to slide one way or another.
Here is a couple pictures of the vertical alignment. The use of M8 metric washers was needed in order to achieve the centering of the rotor disc in the caliper just as it would be stock.
Here is a view of the pad coverage. The coverage is at an angle somewhat, but It covers fully and after testing the bike I definitely have better braking all around.
Here is a picture of the spacers I used. 2 stainless M8 washers on top. 3 on bottom.
Here is a picture of the spacers I used on the bottom side mount. I used 3 here in order to make up for this bottom mounting hole not having that raised edge. The thickness of that raised edge was exactly the thickness of this washer.
Heres a few pics of the actual bike. Hope this post helped someone.
Mods:
- 2009 YZ250F SSS forks/rear shock re-sprung and re-valved by Factory Connection.
- Brembo front brake caliper.
- Brembo front master cylinder w/ ktm oem steel braided line.
- Retro throwback graphics.
- UFO Re-Styled white plastic kit.
- Clark "stock" white tank.
- Ported head.
- PC Platinum pipe.
- PC R-304 silencer.
- AMR racing ignition coil.
- Rekluse Core-EXP 3.0 clutch.
- Hinson clutch basket.
- Magura hydraulic clutch lever.
- Factory connection ignition cover w/ spacer to fit heavy flywheel.
- GYTR +9oz heavy flywheel.
- Tusk Impact wheel set 21"/18" white hubs, black spoke, black wheels.
- Renthal Twinwall bars.
- Carbon wrap on forks for black look.
- 2015 airbox and side panel mod(not pictured).
- Tusk oversize pegs.
- Polished frame at one point(never will do that again).
Stock caliper, oversized rotor, braided line, and oem pads and you would of been doing front flips.
To get my Yamaha and Kawasaki to feel as strong as the KTM any of the 280 mm rotor kits will do.
On my kx 450 I am using the 280mm from EBC .I think the motostuff 280mm rotor looks better but the EBC is cheaper. Any more braking power than these kits offer would be too much for me.
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