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JP
Edited Date/Time
8/5/2015 7:47pm
Got a 2016 YZ250 2 stroke on order.
Last year when the YZ's got their minor revamp, including the YZF's suspension and triple clamps change, did the Triple clamp offset also get a change? I think previously the YZ250 had a 25mm off set?
Cheers
Last year when the YZ's got their minor revamp, including the YZF's suspension and triple clamps change, did the Triple clamp offset also get a change? I think previously the YZ250 had a 25mm off set?
Cheers
The track was intermediate loam prepped perfect with a few sand sections. I have to say, I was surprised with how they worked. I was expecting head shake and really quick turning. Right off the stand I could tell a difference just idling through the pits. It steered much heavier like I had tightened the headset too much or something (but I didn't). On the track that feeling went away and the front end felt really planted going into turns and it layed down a lot easier into a line. I still don't think it turns like a CR or RM, but I think it was closer. I am surprised to report that I think it actually feels more stable at speed. Another benefit is the suspension feels like it works even better. So far I recommend this offset. FYI - I'm an 41 year old, 200 lb. intermediate rider.
I think it ultimately comes down to this, if you are the kind of rider who rides the front of the bike and moves around a whole lot, you'll like the stock offset at 25mm. I'm a very dynamic rider, I get all the way up on the front of the seat coming into the corners and I am hanging off the back of the bike blitzing the whoops.
Riders who are more static, the guys who sit in the middle or the back of the bike and riders who don't stand as much seem to like the shorter 22mm and 23mm offset. I think this applies to some taller riders as well because the length of their arms and legs keeps them farther back on the bike.
Reducing the triple clamp offset increases front end trail and thus gives the weight of the bike more leverage over the steering axis when the bike is leaned over. If you lean the bike a lot and go through a corner, the bike naturally wants to turn in. Too much trail makes the front end turn in too hard and the front end knifes in or tucks under. Not enough trail and the front end tracks straight when you want it to turn in. Obviously, increasing weight bias toward the front end will have an overlapping effect with adding trail (reducing the clamp offset number).
Personally, I think it's better to learn how to ride the bike properly than to set it up to suit a sedentary riding style, but it's very hard to change your style. I was a no-talent ass-clown about 8 years ago and now I can get around a track at a decent pace without tipping over. The biggest piece of the puzzle was body position, not bike setup.
Try 98mm to 103mm of sag before you swap out the clamps. A lot of YZs seem to be delivered with the top of the fork tubes flush with the triple clamp... That's just not good. Set the first groove in the fork tube level with the top of the top of the top triple-clamp and go with 103mm of sag as a starting point. These bikes just won't turn with the fork tubes flush. That first groove on the 2008 - 2010 YZ250 (and my 2011 YZ125) are all at 5mm from the top of the fork tube. That 5mm measurement does not include any part of the fork cap, from the top of the tube itself to the first groove. The reason I'm so specific is that I know they swapped the four-stroke fork tubes onto the 2015 and 2016 two strokes.
Play with your front fork rebound too... More rebound holds the bike in the corner from apex-out, less rebound let's the bike straighten out sooner, apex-out.
The Shop
I'll wait to get the bike and ride it before I go with any changes. Once the clickers are dialed and sag set, might be just fine.
As well as changing the offset, has anyone played with the aftermarket links that are available?
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