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1/9/2016
Location
Yellow Pine, ID, USA
Edited Date/Time
11/5/2022 2:17pm
Talk to me my snowbound brethren... what do I need to know?
I've got minimal experience with studded tires but I want to get a setup this year and rip some snow motos.
What are the best ones to use? Do you have to run Mousses?
I've got minimal experience with studded tires but I want to get a setup this year and rip some snow motos.
What are the best ones to use? Do you have to run Mousses?
Mitas (did they buy Trelleborg?) sells some studded tires that are $450....f#$% me.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Free shipping: VITALMX
Most clubs ban them though, huge advantage and they tear up the trails really bad when the dirt is soft.
Robbi
I was going to attach a picture but the Woody's advertised on Dennis Kirk are different from the ones I used. Try the sheet metal screws, it'll work.
You don’t need a liner. HD Tubes are fine. Liners are for ice racing tires using screws.
Real pros like my local boys use a stud gun, a jig and a metal collar. Many opinions on best tires to run. It’s a personal choice. Lots of guys like M5B rears and Kenda fronts. I’ve built all kinds using different brands. My current set are Maxxis.
Use a tungsten carbide stud. Height depends on type of snow you get. More snow belt location, taller stud. You use too short of a stud on front tire it will float and you will spend the whole day hating life and hitting the ground. Ideally studs need hard pack, harder and more packed the better. Kevin’s Cycles make great tires. You can also buy a kit with the collar and drill bit.
Grip studs work pretty good but are expensive and come out.
Don’t use glue in the drilled holes, it gums up the stud gun. Some pro set ups do but they have the equipment to do it right.
See below for the best source of studs in the US and Canada.
https://brunowessel.com/tire-studs/motocross-studs/?amp
https://gripstuds.com/pages/technical-info
I used 1/4" x 1 1/4" concrete screws off amazon. I bought the same size from home depot for my YZ and they're too long, way more expensive, have a small hex flathead that will pull through the tire. Make sure you get the Phillips head and buy 2 packs of 100.
Buy the same amount of washers and 1/4" nuts.
Pre-drill through the knobs, then run the screw out from the inside of the tire with a washer under the Phillips head. Then you need an electric impact to cross thread the nut onto the screw. This makes it impossible to lose a screw. I didn't lose any during the race. I had friends that used the ice screws that go into the top of the knob and they lost a lot of them. You will need a spare tube to slice up to use as a liner otherwise you will pinch a tube in no time.
Ideally you want to run less screws on the front tire otherwise it can cause steering issues from what I've read.
I ran them in both ice/snow and on my greasy clay trail loop at home, and the traction is like velcro.
Pit Row
I bought 600 of these fuckers last winter and rode them once on the ice, it worked but i wouldnt recommend it
very long lasting they will outlive the tires, pull them out and use them in the next set.
The traction was great while they lasted but the reliability was worse than grip studs and NOTHING like the old Trelleborgs. To my understanding, the couple shops that make these tires buy the (unstuded) Mitas, then drill, glue, and install the mushroom shaped (base) studs. I believed the OG Trelle’s were molded into the lugs at the factory, and the only way to lose a stud was to rip a lug off.
I switched back to a grip stud style (auger base) stud and run one in each front lug, one in every back lug, and double up on center lugs if there is enough meat. A typical tire takes about 300 fronts and 225 rears. I like using hard pack tires because there are more lugs and generally softer durometer rubber which is less prone to tearing.
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