All

Anyone else ready to just wrap sx up and just crack on with the outdoors?

You can feel the loss of compression when the valves start to move. You could try cleaning the fuel filter/sock in the fuel tank. I would check the valve clearance just to be sure.

.004-.006 intake and .007-.009. I have a 20 RMZ, my valves went at around 60 hours and would be hard to start cold. I would sometimes have to use the choke to get it started once it was warm.

08-09 crf250 (carbed) 2006 + yz250f I'd say yamaha has slightly less expensive parts than honda but honda usually has more parts in stock and still currently available.

Then I’d say 11-13 crf250 Our 13 was bulletproof and easy to mod for a bit more power and stay reliable . We sold ours with 100 hours . Still had stock valves in good shape, only replaced piston a couple times .

2008 CRF450R.

I’ve owned multiples of the earlier model 4 strokes and the ones to avoid are 2004-2006 RMZ250, 2004-2005 Kx250f Any other Japanese 4 strokes to current are decent bikes The earliest crf250s are very good and easy to rebuild with plenty of parts availability . I currently have a 2004 yz250f I’m rebuilding the motor on . The newer 250s do have more power but it’s not earth shattering so any older one is not a “ bad” choice.

You can use a copper penny to jam the gear between clutch basket gear, get service manual for proper gear placement & torque specs.... Gear should line up with basket gear....

The threads in the crank half end will need to be chased by a quality tap, no Chinese metal! Get a new crank bolt. If you can save the crank threads, use Red loc tite when installing the new bolt, torque to proper specs. I would disassemble and clean the clutch and shifter star assy. To remove as much of the shavings as possible. Reassemble and start bike, keep changing oil until shavings are gone. Usually the bolt backs out & rubs on the inner clutch cover. Should probably spin all the bearings to see if they are damaged from...