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I have a clean used stock 50mm one that tested out as 5.6 on my spring rate tester and can provide exact load numbers if you want. The powdercoat is not perfect shape but it's clean. I could do $50 shipped to texas and can send you pics if you'd like to verify it's clean enough for your liking. Just...

Are you looking for the 46mm on the 2 strokes or 50mm on the 4 strokes?

Yamaha's rarely have bad rings and are very tolerant to a variety of break in procedure styles, so most likely the rings aren't bad if they were installed correctly and the previous posts are spot on, it's an injector issue. Ultrasonic cleaning probably isn't going to help you, as you need the injector to open when you push cleaner through...

If you're in a pinch, you can take a stock bladder cap, drill it out, put a hollow threaded tube or NPT fitting through the middle and a flat dish larger then the ID of the reservoir to keep it from sucking into the body and cutting the sealing ring off the bottom of a bladder to keep it all...

It's TiCN-MP. I've offered it for almost 15 years, so it's a solid coating that is plenty durable if you're looking to do that to your bike. Coating quality and color can be WILDLY different from coater to coater, so make sure you use a reputable and established shop or deal with the hassle of sending it to a shop...

Clear hard anodizing is what you're looking for and what the tubes and shock body were done in for the picture above. Depending on the alloy of the stock tubes, it can come out anywhere from silver to almost a very light sand color but that's what's going to give you the same look as those old factory Honda's.

Remember the "free side" lug floats, so even if the axle is short, it should just sit deeper in the lug if the clamp spacing is off. Being that it's on the caliper side, it means that the spacer between your wheel and the lug is the culprit. They probably aren't RM lugs and something like a kx250f, as they...

They're good people and they've been around a long time. They have moved into being a bit "tamer" in their maps and tuning, so if you want the absolute max out of your bike, you'll need to look at a different tuner but if you're looking for a solid and reliable setting that gives a nice performance bump, they're a...

That's stainless and an easy repair with a tig welder and over half the time to do it is going to be simply cleaning and prep work, not even actually welding it. I charge $20-40 for a quick repairs like that all the time and just do it when I have a little free time in my schedule, so don't...

Suspension direct sells them.

Being that you left out what class you ride in, the maximum distance you normally jump or send it to, any personal preferences you have and if it's going to solely live in the sand and desert or if it's also going to also see some track time, you're only going to get really generic suggestions. It's also worth keeping...

There is a bit of variation in bends based on who makes the bars, so you'll want to actually pull up the specs on the exact bars you're looking at so you can compare with real numbers, not just the name of the bend. Renthal has a bar comparison generator where you can compare all of their bends and it's...

mxsponsor.com also is a great place too.

+1 for TCR. The amount of time it takes to do a set of hubs yourself when you don't have a lathe tooled and ready to go is astronomical on top of the fact that hubs aren't cheap if you do them wrong. Most people are better off just working an extra Saturday and paying them then spending weekends messing...

Bud racing sells one for the 16+ bikes for $59. As FGR01 said, the whole shock needs to come apart to swap the preload ring but if you're planning ahead so that you can put it on during the next rebuild, it's a good thing to grab. Just remember that with an aluminum preload ring, the ring no longer looses...

Maybe just ask a shop if they'll sell you valving settings for your stock components. We do that for our dealers and riders that are out of country and want a performance upgrade for older bikes that we no longer make works parts or kits for and are hard to justify the shipping costs associated with actually sending it in...

+1 for crank works in Arizona. We've used them for over a decade and have always gotten great results. They're not china cheap and it wont be back on your doorstep the very next day but if he's intending on actually putting hours on the bike, it's worth having a good shop rebuild the stock crank over a cheap aftermarket...

up to 100 degrees cooler operating temp, less friction, more progression, and you don't need to measure anything. Oh, and you don't drive a 1/8 NPT schrader valve into the bottom of the reservoir that leaks 1/2 the time because there's not enough material there to install an o-ringed schrader valve in the bottom. Your schrader may not leak but...