Brake Pedal Play - A remedy ?

Huffa
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Huffa
Edited Date/Time 1/26/2012 10:01pm
On my 87 cr 125 I have play where the bolt goes through it to frame, I am sure the play comes from the pedal itself being out of round rather then the steel bolt, is there any way to remedy that rather then spending 70+ dollars on a new one, if they even still are available that is.

It translates to a "mushy" feel at front of pedal and I don't like that at all and it also rubs against my case which I had PC'd and don't want the case scratched, yea I know, I am getting pretty picky in my old age (55) but the bike is darn close to showroom condition (spent a couple 1000 on it) and want to make every possible effort to keep it that way.

What if I put a thin layer of epoxy around the bolt or could the pedal bolt area be filled in with ?? then drilled out to proper specs again, maybe that would be as much as a new one though ?

16 PEDAL, RR. BRAKE
46510-KS6-700 001 $71.36
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Huffa
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Huffa 4/10/2011 12:09pm
4/10/2011 12:09pm Edited Date/Time 4/10/2011 12:16pm
Craze wrote:
A new bolt is about $16.00... From bike bandit or You can get the pedal & bolt from Ebay for $9.99 plus shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-Honda-CR125R-CR125-Brake-Pedal-_W0Q…
I don't believe I need a new bolt, I am just saying enlarge the bolt with epoxy from what stock specs are of bolt to take up the excessive play and if I purchased another used brake pedal more then likely with it being 24 years old that one would be same way or even worse!

The sellers won't be able to tell me that, if there is play, because most of the times it is off the bike already.

Tell ya what though, I will ask that seller if he can tell by just sliding bolt through with it not attached to frame if it has play, I just think it is a much more accurate determenation with it attached though.

Thanks for the link!
scooter5002
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scooter5002 4/10/2011 1:37pm
4/10/2011 1:37pm Edited Date/Time 4/10/2011 1:38pm
Drill it and dowel it. Or perhaps more accurately, sleeve it. Your welcome. Oh, btw, if that is the bike in your avatar, it looks NICE!
Huffa
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Huffa 4/10/2011 4:07pm
4/10/2011 4:07pm Edited Date/Time 4/10/2011 4:24pm
scooter5002 wrote:
Drill it and dowel it. Or perhaps more accurately, sleeve it. Your welcome. Oh, btw, if that is the bike in your avatar, it looks NICE!
Now that's an idea! Thanks scooter....also for the compliment on bike,

I have a a lot more pics of it in the photo section.

I just wonder what it's worth, EVERYTHING WAS REBULIT using OEM parts as much as I could, well, except for the DG pipe and silincer, I just couldn't resist!

The Shop

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scooter5002
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scooter5002 4/10/2011 5:48pm
4/10/2011 5:48pm
Photo section huh? WELL..................off I go then! As far as value to sell, I have no freakin idea. That's not my area of expertise. I think newman might be the guy to ask on that one. Having said that , maybe it would be worth more if it was old enough to race AHRMA, because it seems like those are going for a good buck. If the right guy wants it though, they will pay for it. And in no way am I slagging your ride. Wish I had something like that.
project racer 4/10/2011 6:00pm
4/10/2011 6:00pm Edited Date/Time 4/10/2011 6:04pm
I have a package of shim stock that contains sheets of thin gauge metal in various thickness. It comes in very handy on old bikes where things are a bit sloppy. Just cut a strip of the proper thickness, and form it into shape for the application. When it wears, another strip will do the trick.

The package I bought contains .001, .0015, .002, .003, .004, etc, up to .015 thickness ,6x12 inch sheets. It was about $20.

It is from a company called ShopAid Incorporated out of Woburn , Massachusetts.


Not every place carries it though. Look at the bigger tool suppliers.
Huffa
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Huffa 4/10/2011 6:37pm
4/10/2011 6:37pm
project racer wrote:
I have a package of shim stock that contains sheets of thin gauge metal in various thickness. It comes in very handy on old bikes where...
I have a package of shim stock that contains sheets of thin gauge metal in various thickness. It comes in very handy on old bikes where things are a bit sloppy. Just cut a strip of the proper thickness, and form it into shape for the application. When it wears, another strip will do the trick.

The package I bought contains .001, .0015, .002, .003, .004, etc, up to .015 thickness ,6x12 inch sheets. It was about $20.

It is from a company called ShopAid Incorporated out of Woburn , Massachusetts.


Not every place carries it though. Look at the bigger tool suppliers.
Thanks! ...great idea !

I will have to look around in my area and if can't find maybe oder from there.
third-gear
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third-gear 4/10/2011 8:31pm
4/10/2011 8:31pm
I have had a pedal sleeve and I did one my self. It is not to hard for a machinist to do and it is tighter than new.
You can get a bronze bushing from Mc Master Carr with an ID just smaller than the bolt, drill out the pedal and press it in.
I have a drill press and a cheep adjustable reamer so I could drill it out and ream the bore of the pedal for a nice press fit. I also used the ream on the new bronze bushing, once installed, to fit it to the bolt. The most challenging thing about the repair was clamping it so it could be drilled square to the original bore of the hole.
If you can find a retired machinist that works out of his garage it will probably be fairly in inexpensive. Mine cost me $20 for the one that I had done.
Huffa
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Huffa 4/10/2011 10:42pm
4/10/2011 10:42pm Edited Date/Time 4/10/2011 10:54pm
third-gear wrote:
I have had a pedal sleeve and I did one my self. It is not to hard for a machinist to do and it is tighter...
I have had a pedal sleeve and I did one my self. It is not to hard for a machinist to do and it is tighter than new.
You can get a bronze bushing from Mc Master Carr with an ID just smaller than the bolt, drill out the pedal and press it in.
I have a drill press and a cheep adjustable reamer so I could drill it out and ream the bore of the pedal for a nice press fit. I also used the ream on the new bronze bushing, once installed, to fit it to the bolt. The most challenging thing about the repair was clamping it so it could be drilled square to the original bore of the hole.
If you can find a retired machinist that works out of his garage it will probably be fairly in inexpensive. Mine cost me $20 for the one that I had done.
Another great idea !

Thanks man, all you guys on here are A-OK , great advice, glad I joined !

Come to think of it I guess that could apply to my shifter toe too because that has a good 1/2 inch up/down play, that I may be able to do myself, finding a bushing/collar to fit should not be a problem.
lumpy790
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lumpy790 4/15/2011 8:06am
4/15/2011 8:06am
I often like to rig things too but.......Seems like a lot of trouble (and not cheap) to go threw instead of dropping the $70 and its done and brand new.

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