GasGas 125 power valving binding up

GG121
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I’m rebuilding my top end with a new cylinder, reusing the old power valve with new o rings. It moves freely with the exhaust manifold bolted on, but once i get the side parts torqued it only seems to move about half way. 

IMG 9218 1

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5/10/2026 5:18pm

You may need to remove some material from the power valve.

Remove the power valve, mark it with black marker, reinstall, rotate power valve, the black marker will show where it's catching.

2
FGR01
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Fantasy
5/10/2026 7:34pm

Stiction in the side arms is a common issue.  There was even an Australian company (F1Moto) selling aftermarket arms to address this.  You can usually fix it by being very careful with assembly, putting some 2-stroke oil on the side sub valves, and polishing or sanding the stock arms.  If you search "KTM power valve arm" on this forum you'll find a bunch of threads talking about it.

2
5/10/2026 8:49pm
FGR01 wrote:
Stiction in the side arms is a common issue.  There was even an Australian company (F1Moto) selling aftermarket arms to address this.  You can usually fix...

Stiction in the side arms is a common issue.  There was even an Australian company (F1Moto) selling aftermarket arms to address this.  You can usually fix it by being very careful with assembly, putting some 2-stroke oil on the side sub valves, and polishing or sanding the stock arms.  If you search "KTM power valve arm" on this forum you'll find a bunch of threads talking about it.

I think F1moto are out of business.

5/11/2026 7:56am

Not sure what year bike you are working with but it is a very common issue. You can try polishing everything up but I ended up just including new barrels and arms into every top end i did on those bikes to take care of the issue. The parts used to be cheap so only added like $100 total but last time I went to get the arms they like quadrupled in price. Replacing those parts was the only way I could ever get rid of the binding

The Shop

sandman768
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5/11/2026 8:32am

Mxa did a test of 3 KTM150”s built by world famous Socal engine builders….on Varners, engine the powervalve was stuck open the entire time they tested it….but it was all good anyway….👌

GG121
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5/11/2026 9:15am

Will take it apart tonight and do the marker on the valve and then sand down the arms. 

5/11/2026 9:17am

I’ve had this problem only with my 2016 150SX, my 2016 125 has never hung up when operating by hand. I polished all arms and barrels, and then slowly started taking away material from the arms and barrels until I got it as smooth as the 125. Polish the control flap for the PV as well as that plays a huge role in the function. Use two stroke oil on reassembly. I always polish the manifold where the barrels ride as well. Can’t hurt it. 

1
GG121
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5/17/2026 1:25pm

Alright boys I got the power valve operating super smooth, and now I can’t get the bike started. Checked the spark plug gap, it has healthy spark. Went one size up on my main jet and pilot jet, now at 520 and 35. And my gas is 32:1 for the break in period. It cranks but won’t start, won’t even bump start. I’m at a loss. There’s no way it’s too rich to even start right? 

sandman768
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5/17/2026 1:35pm

Rag in airbox

FGR01
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5/17/2026 2:02pm

You're definitely not too rich to start and run with that jetting, especially with 32:1 (leans everything out just a touch compared to 40:1).

Does the bike have good compression?  Is the plug wet with gas after starting attempts?

I would pull the pipe and get a good look up the port just to make sure nothing weird is going on.

GG121
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5/17/2026 2:18pm
FGR01 wrote:
You're definitely not too rich to start and run with that jetting, especially with 32:1 (leans everything out just a touch compared to 40:1).Does the bike...

You're definitely not too rich to start and run with that jetting, especially with 32:1 (leans everything out just a touch compared to 40:1).

Does the bike have good compression?  Is the plug wet with gas after starting attempts?

I would pull the pipe and get a good look up the port just to make sure nothing weird is going on.

The plug is dry. I’m about to pull the pipe off and the carb. Has great compression. How is 32:1 leaner than 40:1? 

FGR01
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5/17/2026 2:49pm
FGR01 wrote:
You're definitely not too rich to start and run with that jetting, especially with 32:1 (leans everything out just a touch compared to 40:1).Does the bike...

You're definitely not too rich to start and run with that jetting, especially with 32:1 (leans everything out just a touch compared to 40:1).

Does the bike have good compression?  Is the plug wet with gas after starting attempts?

I would pull the pipe and get a good look up the port just to make sure nothing weird is going on.

GG121 wrote:

The plug is dry. I’m about to pull the pipe off and the carb. Has great compression. How is 32:1 leaner than 40:1? 

More oil equals less gas. per volume.   So, a Richer oil-gas ratio creates a leaner gas-air ratio.  An easy way to think about it...  a jet is a fixed size orifice that flows a fixed volume per time.   If more of that liquid is oil, that means less of it is gas.  Guys will try to get more complicated about it and tell you it's because of the different levels of oil altering the viscosity of the liquid and hence the amount drawn up by vacuum, but just trust my way !  haha  It's not a huge difference between 40:1 and 32:1, but it is a difference.   This is why amateur mechanics try to address muffler spooge by putting less oil in their gas and end up making it worse.   Less oil means there is more gas.  More gas richens the gas/air ratio, cools the combustion temps, and makes more spooge.

Anyway, sound like you have a fuel delivery problem if your plug is staying dry.  Have you verified all the simple stuff?   Petcock is on, lean the bike over and get gas flowing out the overflows.  Tap the float bowl with a screwdriver handle to make sure the float isn't sticking closed.  Crack the bowl drain loose to make sure gas is filling the bowl.   You can also take the air filter out, hold the throttle wide open and spray some ether starting fluid in the carb and make sure it will fire.  It might run after that or you can then figure out why it isn't getting fuel.

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GG121
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5/17/2026 4:38pm
FGR01 wrote:
More oil equals less gas. per volume.   So, a Richer oil-gas ratio creates a leaner gas-air ratio.  An easy way to think about it...  a...

More oil equals less gas. per volume.   So, a Richer oil-gas ratio creates a leaner gas-air ratio.  An easy way to think about it...  a jet is a fixed size orifice that flows a fixed volume per time.   If more of that liquid is oil, that means less of it is gas.  Guys will try to get more complicated about it and tell you it's because of the different levels of oil altering the viscosity of the liquid and hence the amount drawn up by vacuum, but just trust my way !  haha  It's not a huge difference between 40:1 and 32:1, but it is a difference.   This is why amateur mechanics try to address muffler spooge by putting less oil in their gas and end up making it worse.   Less oil means there is more gas.  More gas richens the gas/air ratio, cools the combustion temps, and makes more spooge.

Anyway, sound like you have a fuel delivery problem if your plug is staying dry.  Have you verified all the simple stuff?   Petcock is on, lean the bike over and get gas flowing out the overflows.  Tap the float bowl with a screwdriver handle to make sure the float isn't sticking closed.  Crack the bowl drain loose to make sure gas is filling the bowl.   You can also take the air filter out, hold the throttle wide open and spray some ether starting fluid in the carb and make sure it will fire.  It might run after that or you can then figure out why it isn't getting fuel.

Thank you for that, I have no idea!


Gas flows out of the overflows when tipped over, and the float bowl had gas in it. Took the carb off, confirmed we do not have any shop rags anywhere in the intake. When I took the pipe off, it was full of gas that spilled onto my floor when I walked away with it. Stuck float? It’s been sat sideways on my work bench for 3 weeks 

GG121
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5/17/2026 6:39pm

Looks like maybe some debris from inside the pipe may have washed back inside the cylinder and caused some scoring……is this safe to ride with? 

 

IMG 9318 2.jpeg?VersionId=RshyAO LtG Ls
FGR01
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5/17/2026 9:00pm

Those scratches don't look major.  Can you feel them with your fingernail?   The concern is there may be other debris in your bottom end that will continue to migrate when you do start the bike.

sandman768
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5/18/2026 4:03am

Why did you rebuild? Replated cylinder or brand new? if replate, did you follow cleaning instructions? Scores on intake side of cylinder usually from ingesting dirt/sand…airbox boot & carby clean? 

GG121
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5/18/2026 4:59am
FGR01 wrote:
Those scratches don't look major.  Can you feel them with your fingernail?   The concern is there may be other debris in your bottom end that...

Those scratches don't look major.  Can you feel them with your fingernail?   The concern is there may be other debris in your bottom end that will continue to migrate when you do start the bike.

I can’t feel them with my finger nail. I’ll pull the cylinder off and flush the bottom end with gasoline 

GG121
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5/18/2026 5:00am Edited Date/Time 5/18/2026 5:05am
sandman768 wrote:
Why did you rebuild? Replated cylinder or brand new? if replate, did you follow cleaning instructions? Scores on intake side of cylinder usually from ingesting dirt/sand…airbox...

Why did you rebuild? Replated cylinder or brand new? if replate, did you follow cleaning instructions? Scores on intake side of cylinder usually from ingesting dirt/sand…airbox boot & carby clean? 

I blew up my old cylinder, this is a brand new cylinder. As I mentioned, the pipe was full of gasoline when I pulled it off, and it was all black in assuming from carbon buildup inside the pipe that got washed off. Some of this definitely washed back inside the cylinder … Sad

5/18/2026 5:32am
sandman768 wrote:
Why did you rebuild? Replated cylinder or brand new? if replate, did you follow cleaning instructions? Scores on intake side of cylinder usually from ingesting dirt/sand…airbox...

Why did you rebuild? Replated cylinder or brand new? if replate, did you follow cleaning instructions? Scores on intake side of cylinder usually from ingesting dirt/sand…airbox boot & carby clean? 

GG121 wrote:
I blew up my old cylinder, this is a brand new cylinder. As I mentioned, the pipe was full of gasoline when I pulled it off...

I blew up my old cylinder, this is a brand new cylinder. As I mentioned, the pipe was full of gasoline when I pulled it off, and it was all black in assuming from carbon buildup inside the pipe that got washed off. Some of this definitely washed back inside the cylinder … Sad

Why did it blow up?

sandman768
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5/18/2026 6:07am

Why did it blow up?

This….bottom end inspected? Throughly cleaned of debris? If it blew up from sucking dirt…..did you throughly clean…everything from reeds back to airbox? You should also do a leakdown test to make sure no air leaks….most guys without experience rebuild the bike but don’t fix what caused the seizure in the first place…..we all been there…. When I was 14 I blew up my CR125, new top end & cylinder……blew up again….lower rod bearing was going out….hard lesson learned for a kid on a paper route budget….

GG121
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5/18/2026 6:50am Edited Date/Time 5/18/2026 6:53am

Why did it blow up?

sandman768 wrote:
This….bottom end inspected? Throughly cleaned of debris? If it blew up from sucking dirt…..did you throughly clean…everything from reeds back to airbox? You should also do...

This….bottom end inspected? Throughly cleaned of debris? If it blew up from sucking dirt…..did you throughly clean…everything from reeds back to airbox? You should also do a leakdown test to make sure no air leaks….most guys without experience rebuild the bike but don’t fix what caused the seizure in the first place…..we all been there…. When I was 14 I blew up my CR125, new top end & cylinder……blew up again….lower rod bearing was going out….hard lesson learned for a kid on a paper route budget….

I believe it blew up from being too lean during a very cold day, had some detonation. Then I rode at a very deep track riding wide open the next weekend and it blew up on lap 2. Rod bearings feel good, zero up and down movement. I’m going to take off the cylinder tonight and recheck my ring gap. I am realizing I only checked gap on the top ring

sandman768
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5/19/2026 5:03pm

Make sure bottom end is clean of debris and do a leakdown test…make sure no air leaks…good luck

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