What's a moto item you won't go cheap on?

Jabe
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Jabe 10/22/2025 1:39am
10/22/2025 1:39am
crusher773 wrote:

That's what I'm talking about more.  I know I did my son's 125 not all that long ago with A/M and they are shot already 

What’s does A/M mean? 

My thought was: you buy koyo, NTN, NACI for the important stuff crank, main and secondary shaft if possible. I know for example the Cr125 has a groove on the outer side of the race for securing in the cases.

I will see once my bike is running hope it turned out.

Lentz197 10/22/2025 3:16am
10/22/2025 3:16am
crusher773 wrote:

That's what I'm talking about more.  I know I did my son's 125 not all that long ago with A/M and they are shot already 

Jabe wrote:
What’s does A/M mean? My thought was: you buy koyo, NTN, NACI for the important stuff crank, main and secondary shaft if possible. I know for example...

What’s does A/M mean? 

My thought was: you buy koyo, NTN, NACI for the important stuff crank, main and secondary shaft if possible. I know for example the Cr125 has a groove on the outer side of the race for securing in the cases.

I will see once my bike is running hope it turned out.

after market

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Timo
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Timo 10/22/2025 7:32am
10/22/2025 7:32am
crusher773 wrote:

Try a Michelin and you won't want a Dunlop again either.

 

I have found I don't like going cheap on any bearings.  No aftermarket, go OEM only.

Jabe wrote:
I’ve started to not go the oem route for many of the engine bearings. Because you know they use koyo/NTN or similar quality and you can...

I’ve started to not go the oem route for many of the engine bearings. Because you know they use koyo/NTN or similar quality and you can get most of them at bearing online shops at good prices. So no headaches there. 

What about linkage/swingarm bearings? OEM worth it?

Funny thing on linkage bearings, I grease mine twice a season and have only had to replace the lower shock bearing, it could probably be greased once a month... On my last rebuild a couple months ago I just replaced the seals, but just fresh grease on the bearings. My race bike has 180 hours on it, all original linkage bearings, steering stem bearing, and top shock bearing. Just have a good greasing schedule and they'll last a long time. 

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msp332
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msp332 10/22/2025 9:14am
10/22/2025 9:14am
OwenJakes wrote:
So you seem very knowledgeable in this arena. I'm gathering that you're going to at least go for an ECE 22.06 helmet at minimum then? So...

So you seem very knowledgeable in this arena. I'm gathering that you're going to at least go for an ECE 22.06 helmet at minimum then? So is the ECE 22.06 standard a safe "bare-minimum" and then go from there? Thank you very much for the reply that was awesome.

Yes, exactly. I'd rather discuss why helmets that aren't certified are still being bought, sold, and made.

And I wouldn't say I'm especially knowledgeable, I just read and verify my sources. Another thing we don't discuss here!

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seth505
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SD, CA, USA
seth505 10/22/2025 9:16am
10/22/2025 9:16am

Tires, bars, bearings, gaskets, any internal engine components, boots, helmets and oil.

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crusher773
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Coweta, OK, USA
crusher773 10/22/2025 9:40pm
10/22/2025 9:40pm
crusher773 wrote:

That's what I'm talking about more.  I know I did my son's 125 not all that long ago with A/M and they are shot already 

Jabe wrote:
What’s does A/M mean? My thought was: you buy koyo, NTN, NACI for the important stuff crank, main and secondary shaft if possible. I know for example...

What’s does A/M mean? 

My thought was: you buy koyo, NTN, NACI for the important stuff crank, main and secondary shaft if possible. I know for example the Cr125 has a groove on the outer side of the race for securing in the cases.

I will see once my bike is running hope it turned out.

Aftermarket I think we put an all balls kit it before.

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Pit Row

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