Anyone got any photo question?

Paul Buckley 7/23/2008 1:07pm
7/23/2008 1:07pm
jbomx363 wrote:
Depends on the colors of the logo. If it's a white background, choose your quick selection tool (maybe magic wand in CS2?) and highlight the white.....then...
Depends on the colors of the logo. If it's a white background, choose your quick selection tool (maybe magic wand in CS2?) and highlight the white.....then right click and choose INVERSE... this should highlight your whole logo. Right click on the highlighted logo and COPY it. Then hit File, OPEN, NEW, and choose transparent background and paste your logo in it. Done deal.

Email it to me if you need help and I'll see if I can do it if you can't. motoximages@cox.net
Don't forget to save it in a file format that supports transparency, like PSD, PNG or TIFF
bmoto816
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bmoto816 7/23/2008 5:50pm
7/23/2008 5:50pm Edited Date/Time 8/1/2008 9:55pm
Paul Buckley wrote:
Post them here and I'll try to answer them as best I can. Anything from camera set-up to Photoshop sharpening settings.
Paul Buckley wrote:
Looks nice, a little contrasty maybe, what's the original out of the camera file look like?
it looks alot cleaner, when I first posted this pic you could click on it to enlarge but that only lasted a few days. now it wont do it!
Paul Buckley 8/6/2008 3:51pm
8/6/2008 3:51pm
I looked at it on his site and there it does look better and the others are really nice. I remember reading about how the same photo made smaller will look darker.
Matt Lofty #338 8/9/2008 3:03pm
8/9/2008 3:03pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 7:58pm
Hi Paul
Just started taking photos, any tips to improve would be appreciated. Took on a Nikon 40D

Thanks Matt, UK
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Paul Buckley 8/9/2008 5:10pm
8/9/2008 5:10pm
Hi Matt
That shot's pretty clean, nice composition too. It's working for me, I really don't see anything I'd change. Is the full size version tack sharp? For a shot like this I'd aim a focus point at his shirt numbers and try to take it before the roost got in the way cause then all that would be in focus would be the clumps of flying dirt.

Where'd you take that? It looks too sunny for the UK. Ray Archer would always tell me how envious he was of the light over here.
Matt Lofty #338 8/10/2008 9:11am
8/10/2008 9:11am Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 7:58pm

Thanks, and yerh its pretty sharp full size, I will try take them abit earlier next time then.
Haha - yerh its England at a track called Preston Docks MX
This is another i took but altered the exposure but deleted the original by accident!

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squid48
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squid48 8/11/2008 10:10am
8/11/2008 10:10am
I dont know if ive asked this yet paul...

But are parameters important??? I know mine are all just set normal. any advice?
todder
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todder 8/18/2008 2:50pm
8/18/2008 2:50pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 8:05pm
I am brand new to this and have a older digital camera. Olympus E20 which was supposed to be the bomb 6 or 7 years ago. My question is I was recommended to set it at shutter priority 640 for the motion shooting and that is what this pic is. When this corner got later in the day with some shadows my ap was flashing due to the lower light and everything i took was super dark. What should I use for settings in shadows or anything other than bright sun. The auto mode on the this camera was awful when trying to get moving things in the same corner. Thanks Todd
mike154owen 8/31/2008 2:31pm
8/31/2008 2:31pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 8:16pm
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close up lense, what do you guys rekomend?

here are some pics for the type of lenses im looking for






Thank you
russerbe
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russerbe 9/2/2008 7:08am
9/2/2008 7:08am
mike154owen wrote:
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close...
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close up lense, what do you guys rekomend?

here are some pics for the type of lenses im looking for






Thank you
What you are looking for is called a fisheye lens.
squid48
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squid48 9/2/2008 8:29am
9/2/2008 8:29am
Fisheye effect only works well with full framed cameras...

Is this true?
mike154owen 9/3/2008 11:48pm
9/3/2008 11:48pm
mike154owen wrote:
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close...
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close up lense, what do you guys rekomend?

here are some pics for the type of lenses im looking for






Thank you
russerbe wrote:
What you are looking for is called a fisheye lens.
ok but i thought that at the edges of the photos the objects are on a bend because of the effect?, then what a good lense + fish eye? is it just a wide angle lense?

Thanks
Russ Cannon
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Russ Cannon 9/13/2008 7:57pm
9/13/2008 7:57pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 8:26pm
squid48 wrote:
Fisheye effect only works well with full framed cameras...

Is this true?
Yeah Squid, you're right that only a full framed body will show the entire results from a fisheye lens. Since the sensors in Nikon and Canon 1.6 bodies are smaller than the full frame, the light that is bent around the edges to pull the extra field of view in falls outside the sensor. You may get some, but not nearly as much as the full frame. Canon's entry level Pro bodies have a 1.3 crop factor (DMK II &III) so you may see more of the effect. Each company does match specific lens for the 1.6 crop factor bodies that compensate for this. I'm not sure if Nikon or Canon make a fisheye for the 1.6 bodies.

I know Paul shoots full frame so maybe he can chime in here...
mike154owen 9/14/2008 1:28am
9/14/2008 1:28am
squid48 wrote:
Fisheye effect only works well with full framed cameras...

Is this true?
Russ Cannon wrote:
Yeah Squid, you're right that only a full framed body will show the entire results from a fisheye lens. Since the sensors in Nikon and Canon...
Yeah Squid, you're right that only a full framed body will show the entire results from a fisheye lens. Since the sensors in Nikon and Canon 1.6 bodies are smaller than the full frame, the light that is bent around the edges to pull the extra field of view in falls outside the sensor. You may get some, but not nearly as much as the full frame. Canon's entry level Pro bodies have a 1.3 crop factor (DMK II &III) so you may see more of the effect. Each company does match specific lens for the 1.6 crop factor bodies that compensate for this. I'm not sure if Nikon or Canon make a fisheye for the 1.6 bodies.

I know Paul shoots full frame so maybe he can chime in here...
OK great thanks. i have a Canon eos 400D. so is there a specific fish eye lense that will not show black out side?. Mayb a link if possible


Thanks you
Russ Cannon
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Russ Cannon 9/14/2008 7:09pm
9/14/2008 7:09pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 8:27pm
mike154owen wrote:
OK great thanks. i have a Canon eos 400D. so is there a specific fish eye lense that will not show black out side?. Mayb a...
OK great thanks. i have a Canon eos 400D. so is there a specific fish eye lense that will not show black out side?. Mayb a link if possible


Thanks you
Mike, Looks like Cannon does not make a specific fisheye lens for the 350/400/20/30/40D line. They do make a wide angle, 10mm-22mm lens. Thats the widest I've found, but it's not a true fisheye. so you will get wide angle, but not the fisjeye effect you are looking for. Link to the lens is Here

Sigma makes an circular 8mm fisheye with a canon mount... You can get them at Adorama or B&H.

Here's a sample shot mounted on a 1.6 sensor in the POTN forum, it's about half way down the page.
mike154owen 9/15/2008 2:23am
9/15/2008 2:23am
ok great thanks for you help Russ Canon. Well one of mom's friend has a Canon 1D mark ii i think or mark iii. do you reakon 1 more link for a correct fish eye for that, i might be able to bargen it off lol.
Russ Cannon
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Russ Cannon 9/15/2008 4:24pm
9/15/2008 4:24pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 8:27pm
mike154owen wrote:
ok great thanks for you help Russ Canon. Well one of mom's friend has a Canon 1D mark ii i think or mark iii. do you...
ok great thanks for you help Russ Canon. Well one of mom's friend has a Canon 1D mark ii i think or mark iii. do you reakon 1 more link for a correct fish eye for that, i might be able to bargen it off lol.
Hey Mark, Try the Canon 15mm USM fisheye at Adorama or B & H. To see a sample using this lens, try this link at Fred Miranda forums, there is a sample pic with a MK II of seal on a beach in the 8th post, plus some other samples further down...
mike154owen 9/16/2008 1:17am
9/16/2008 1:17am
hey thanks for that bro!!!!!!

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Paul Buckley 9/16/2008 4:31pm
9/16/2008 4:31pm
squid48 wrote:
I dont know if ive asked this yet paul...

But are parameters important??? I know mine are all just set normal. any advice?
Parameters are important, they let you set saturation, contrast and sharpness all of which are very important if you shoot jpegs. They don't mean squat if you shoot raw except that they affect the preview on the cameras LCD.

Cameras vary so much I'd say try some different setting at a test shoot to see what you like best. If you have a Canon, the Canon File Viewer will show you the settings for all your shots.
Paul Buckley 9/16/2008 4:34pm
9/16/2008 4:34pm
todder wrote:
I am brand new to this and have a older digital camera. Olympus E20 which was supposed to be the bomb 6 or 7 years ago...
I am brand new to this and have a older digital camera. Olympus E20 which was supposed to be the bomb 6 or 7 years ago. My question is I was recommended to set it at shutter priority 640 for the motion shooting and that is what this pic is. When this corner got later in the day with some shadows my ap was flashing due to the lower light and everything i took was super dark. What should I use for settings in shadows or anything other than bright sun. The auto mode on the this camera was awful when trying to get moving things in the same corner. Thanks Todd
Late in the day give ISO 640, 800-1000 shutter M mode and expose off something middle gray or use the palm of you hand meter and open up one stop.
Paul Buckley 9/16/2008 4:39pm
9/16/2008 4:39pm
mike154owen wrote:
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close...
Hello. i am looking for a close up type of lense for like starts, supercross and close to the track. is there a really good close up lense, what do you guys rekomend?

here are some pics for the type of lenses im looking for






Thank you
The start shot looks like it might have been shot with a fisheye (I use a Canon 15mm) but the Villopoto shot doesn't look distorted enough so I'd guess it was taken with a wide zoom (28-70?)

Full frame cameras will show the full fisheye effect but you'll still get some with a 1.4-1.6 body.
NateCrisman
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NateCrisman 9/16/2008 6:15pm
9/16/2008 6:15pm
Any of the crop sensor DSLR bodies can use the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, or the new sigma fisheye lenses that are designed for the full 180* field of view (and full distortion) on a 1.5 or 1.6 crop body. Nikon makes a 10.5mm DX fisheye lens that gives a 180* view and fisheye distortion on a 1.5X DX body. (I still use that lens often on my FF D3.)

Using a fisheye lens designed for a full frame 35mm camera will look just like a really wide prime lens with only a bit of distortion a the edges. If you want the crazy distortion, you need a FE lens specificly made for a crop body.
zookie
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zookie 10/6/2008 6:57pm
10/6/2008 6:57pm
Paul, since both me and my father are amateurs, would you recommend using the RAW+JPEG setting so if I really screw up the parameters I can adjust them?

Is there a good website for PS help with regard to level adjustment, parameter adjustment, etc?

Thanks!
Paul Buckley 10/6/2008 7:29pm
10/6/2008 7:29pm
zookie, give adobe TV a try

Sure raw/jpeg gives you some insurance but if you do some tests before the big shoot you shouldn't need it.
SMX industries 10/27/2008 7:50am
10/27/2008 7:50am Edited Date/Time 10/27/2008 7:50am
Hey Paul,
Just a quick one from an Aussie Photog, how does the system work in the US for the AMA Supercross/ Motocross series for gaining accreditation to come over and shoot and what are the terms and conditions like?, just in a simple wrap up as I would like to come over and have a crack next year at a couple of events.
Currently doing Chad's SuperX series in Australia at the moment.

Paul Buckley 10/27/2008 2:22pm
10/27/2008 2:22pm
Denny Hartwig email handles the SX and as long as you have an assignment letter from a legit publication you should be able to get in. Getting on the floor is another story, you might want to try later rounds as the media attendance really dwindles as the series moves East.
SMX industries 10/27/2008 4:26pm
10/27/2008 4:26pm
Great Paul, thanks for the heads up.
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hoots3pak 11/10/2008 2:05pm
11/10/2008 2:05pm Edited Date/Time 4/16/2016 9:10pm


Damn good info in this thread thanks alot Paul. Alot of Photographers dont like to give any intel. at all. thanks man

I dont know how to post my pic. I guess i have to wait until my 14 year old daughter gets home. lol Hoots

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