Hi guys, I’m doing an ally frame conversion for a cr500 Honda, I’m using a 2010 TM450 chassis.
Good points …
Don’t need to cut the cradle of the frame for the exhaust port
Loads of room within the frame for the 500 engine
Bad points (so far)
Shock bottle on the tm is on the left which would be in the way of the airboot leading to the carb and to twist the bottle around to the right side above the exhaust, the frame needs remoulding, my thoughts are at the moment to heat up the frame and tactically hit it to mould it like the opposite side for the shock. Il try and add a picture.
Does anyone have any better ideas?
Do you have access to any other shocks? Something with a remote reservoir would be an easy fit.
If that is a solid spar on the frame, bust out the die grinder👍
Show us a picture of the shock with the body eye rotated to the Right. And, with the 'clocking' seen on the reservoir arm in that picture, it will be then down and forward.
Then we - well you, can see what sort of clearance issues you really have . Perhaps just a bit of 'die grinding' may be needed, perhaps far to much.
I Do Not Recommend / Endorse heating a frame - especially an Aluminium one - and wielding a Hammer on it, unless it was but the very, very barest of 'taps', for clearance.
Whatever you do, run the shock through it's travel - well, probably just a flat bar with the Extended eye to eye measurement, And the compressed eye to eye measurement, to see how the shocks angle changes during compression. Generally, it's towards the rear with reference to the bottom of the shock, and thus, the reservoir arm and reservoir going 'backwards'. Needing more clearance than you may initially think.
You may - well, almost certainly it being an Ohlins - be able to get a different body eye - with a different 'clocking' and / or 'drop' to it..
Or, use a body eye on The Original To The Frame shock that takes a hose, with then a reservoir to hose end cap that has the compression adjuster 'port'. Heck, I've done a few such things over the years by cutting the reservoir arm, and machining weld in ends , with large, banjo bolt or straight fit hose threads in them , for both the arm and reservoir cap. But, be wary of fitting a hose and banjos fittings with a restrictive inner diameter, - that can really 'eff' up the compression circuit. Like the people who fit a brake hose as a reservoir hose, and wonder why things are so bloody harsh, no matter what compression setting they run.........
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