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I have put a couple post up about this now some people are getting annoyed so sorry about that but I have a 450 rmz 2011. I was going to go for a ride kicked the bike a bunch of times and then realised ht lead wasn’t in put that back in after about 50 kicks then the bike hasn’t been acting the same since bike will start perfectly cold and then let it run for 10 mins then I have to rapidly quick it to get it going or just push start and it runs and rides fine
Had a Mx bike mechanic look at the bike he had not much idea stator has been sent off and coil has been replaced so nothing to major done the the bike just wanted to get a list of a bunch of things it may be and test them all and send back the things that don’t work
brother, like others have said CHECK THE VALVE CLEARANCES! its highly likely thats where your problem is, good luck
Valve clearances checked?
Just reply to your old thread and have someone check the valve clearances
You do know that button on the handle bar doesn’t start it right? Sorry, couldn’t resist 😬
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Sorry bud forgot to mention I did have the valves checked that’s why I’m so stumped
I have had the valances checked and there in spec
Oh shit sorry had that thing pressed in the whole time 🫢
You need to do what is called a "leak down test" because the clearance won't tell the whole story about a bad valve.
Your choke is not on by any chance?
Nope just checked
has a qualified tech checked the valves or was it a guy that says he's a qualified tech?
I would strongly suggest starting a new thread tomorrow asking the same question.
Check that your idle is not too low.
Timing may have jumped a tooth or stretched chain
Thank you I’ll have a go
I had some issues with my 2011 RMZ, I find it is sensitive to fuel map plugs, if hard to start when hot, I switch to the white lean plug, if I get a flame-out in corners on a cold day, I fit the richer grey plug.
I did have a situation of no spark, turns out it is a common problem with the '11, the wiring loom, behind the front numberplate, that plugs into the ECU, the terminals do not protrude far enough into the ECU, I filed the outer rim of the plastic plug, to give better penetration, then glued it in with a hot-glue gun.
Has been perfect ever since.
Thank you what did u fill the out rim of the plastic with
Not "fill", filed, with a hand file.
Pit Row
Thanks sorry for the miscommunication 🤣
I’ll try it if it don’t work I’ll put another post up
I really want this problem fixed I like to do little bits of enduro where I live but if I stall the bike i have to wait for it to cool down before I can kick it again
Insulation breakdown in the stator is a possibility when it gets hot, resulting in a weak spark. Which I think someone else said in one of the older threads.
Does it have spark?
Have a buddy with a 21 RMZ 450 that won’t start. It has a code of 22-333, which is a “roll over sensor”. I guess KTM runs them also. Just wondered if anybody else has had a problem with them? (sensor)
2011 does not have a choke. Fast idle/starter knob... yes.
Your symptoms are generally from a valve gap that is too tight or you have low compression (valve not sealing, piston/rings are super worn out.
You will have better luck in the correct forum or at thumpertalk.
Do I have to replace to stator ?
I have had the stator sent off and tested they said they could not get the stator to fail
Starts right up cold but not to well hot
You're gonna have to do some troubleshooting bud, otherwise you're going to spend a lot on stuff you don't need. To test that, you'll need to get your bike hot to where it's not starting, and test the spark then. Ideally, first you should do a compression and leak down test to rule out valve issues.
Cheers David what tools do I need for a compression or leak down test I don’t mind spending a bit of money on tools seeing as I will ride dirt bikes untill im in the dirt
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