Upgrade to enjoy this feature!
Vital MX fantasy is free to play, but Premium users receive great benefits. Premium benefits include:
- View and download rider stats
- Pick trends
- Create a private league
- And more!
Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
Forks works great, but it is slightly longer than standard and much harder as setting so the bike is a little rotated backwards. I think that the chassis has already more angled fork head respect modern bikes and agility and rider position is not the best with this setup.
I tried to have more front height and reduce a little bit rear sag , and this changed already the bike behavior but for sure I need a slightly softer front spring and rise a little more the rear.
The worst thing of this bike are for sure the footpegs.
Fahrenheit.
At that temp you could conceivably take the item out after an hour and be done. Of course as the guide says I use the H series. I honestly do not think any of the non catalyzed series are as hard.
I almost always leave parts in the oven for 2-4 hours. I shut off the oven and let the parts cool in there usually overnight.
Looks like your missing a bolt on that stator flywheel cover
The Shop
Free shipping: VITALMX
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Yes removed it to mount the clutch 😂
Looks like your carb boot is not seated very well.
Restoring a bike is stressful 😂
I mounted the oem silencer and realized that the exhaust is not the 1991 but probably the 1990 or older so the two parts doesn’t match. Now I have doubt if modify this exhaust (need to cut a little the final part) or try to find its own ( difficult to find in good shape).
That bike looks incredibly good to me. I really wanted to do the pink/magenta set up of the YZ vs the teal for my WR. With those black rims just simply stunning to me. Damn me and my need to look stock and original. I have to restore these older bikes with the broadest appeal. Great job and I love the look.
Your photo composition was excellent. You must have some background in photography as most wouldn’t have composed their shot like that.
i’m curios about rear shock
Question for the user. Someone has experience with GPI racing radiators? It worth to buy them or the quality is low? Are they enough well done to match plastics etc?
in the end I bought a set of GPI radiator. From first look seems solid, let’s see if they fit and cool the bike properli. At least all the fixing points are much stronger than std radiator that are broken already
See my response on this thread:
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/tech-helprace-shop/ebay-radiators
Good rads for the money but a little weak. I suggest welding some braces as I did on them before use. Since I've braced them they've been very solid.
Since last time I used the bike passed few months. I drained out the fuel but unfortunately seems like was not enough. The oil solidify in the main jet and also in the secondary and it was quite difficult to cleaned out properly.
Before I realize that carburetor was completely stucked i tried couple of kick and the kickstarter broke, causing a lot of problem to start up the bike when is cold.
Moreover now the bikes runs odd, It seems ok on the stand, but as soon as you make few laps start to run rich and not burn so much. Moreover every time I press the kill switch, it makes a big CIUFF from the exhaust.
I hope just something related to carburetor and not to the spark advance or electric/electronic.
Anyway I cleaned a little bit the engine, sealed everything properly, mounted new GPI radiators (Not the best quality but fitting was almost ok, just the left side is a little bit to big and almost touch the cylinder head), and new footrests.
My 89 RM250 had a Mikuni TM on as standard, and although the bike ran okay with the carb, I made improvements switching to a screw top Keihin PWK from a 97 RM250. I was able to get a better idle and generally stronger engine with this carb than the Mikuni.
I've since bought a shortbody PWK from a 08 which I'm going to blank off the TPS and Powerjet. Not tested yet but I'm confident this will be even better again. They pop up every so often for £1-200 so could be worth keeping an eye out for one
Yes I second ditching the old tm carb and going with a pwk air striker. The long body version is the screw top kind.
I put one of the long body pwk's 38mm off a 03 ktm 200. On my 91 ktm 300 much better. Starts easier idles better has better throttle response.
Ktm's from like 99 up to 03 have the long body. 04 on have the short body. You want the ones with the quad vents. And the little wings on the intake side. The ktm ones don't have all the added crap. Like throttle position sensors n such.
Some pictures
That looks legit. I've always liked those era Yamaha graphics. Do they have any clips on the petcock and carb on those models? I'd be paranoid to go without them. Also good call on the hydraulic clutch upgrade. Once you pull one of those, IDK how you go back.
Pit Row
Great build mate!
It's a Ramirez stator cover? Very rare find!
Love this white/magenta YZ's...
Cheers.
Obviously there are clips on carb, but they are black as well as on the fuel line I just tighthen with safety wire to recover some space
Yep is a ramirez one, but luckily was on the bike since the beginning
That makes sense I just don't think I saw it in the pic above. Sweet looking bike man!
Post a reply to: Yamaha yz 250 1991