1992 through 1996 Honda CR 250s Done. The last 5 years of the Honda 250 steel frames.

Shot some Cerakote black a couple days ago. This was my second spray for black. This should be all that I do in one big shoot. I thought of getting this stuff recoated in black by the plating service I use. It would have cost me $125. Just not enough needed in black to make it worthwhile. 
‘Hanging this stuff takes time. Maybe if I wasn’t trying to restore every left over Honda CR part I have this would have been faster.

I left out 3 master cylinders that will go a silver Cerakote.

This will be a solid 4 days to get through them all.

More and more Cerakote.

I probably shoot more paint than I need to. Can’t help it since I like an overall uniform appearance. I can see why guys either polish the aluminum or just use scotch brite pads. Honda actually paints a great deal of their aluminum.

Painting also helps with cleaning up so many of these parts that are heavily used. I always try to use as much of the original parts as I received them. 
 

Chain adjuster blocks.

I tried using a file to start.

But I found that removing material like this would create missing material. So I tried just moving the aluminum back into its original position.

I used an abrasive wheel on my Dremel just to uniform the top and side that faces the axel. Next I went to the abrasive wheel.

Shot with Shimmering Silver Cerakote. H series is all I use. I wrote a primer on how to use it and where to find similar painting equipment as I use. Check out my first restore for that how to and others.

As for the chain guard I used a flapper disc 80 grit on an angle electric grinder to start with. Watch your pad angle closely and be careful of leaving deep gouges. After that it went to the abrasive wheel for additional clean up. Washed them up and sprayed.

Thanks Jwack. Thank you for appreciating all the small details.
 

Thanks Brad also for your comments. They will all appear period correct with stock graphics/seat covers/plastics. Forks will be different on several of them. 
Those tanks… hahaha… In absolutely no rush to tackle those. I know all too well what to expect. I may just go aftermarket but then I would have all these stock tanks left over. I think I have a total of 6 stock Honda. Doing one is still significant work but 5??? I had one professionally restored several years ago. Even with keeping fuel out of it and from sitting covered some of the prior issues are coming back. Like the brown staining dots that happen when there is graphics applied on plastic tanks. They make those holes for the plastic to breathe so the graphics last longer. Fuel migrates through those and stains the plastic in those areas. So even if you remove the staining it could very well be temporarily. I think I just convinced myself to buy replacements.

Thanks for the likes and comments fellow members.

Forks

I decided just to break from the insane amount of aluminum part clean up and spraying mass amounts of individual parts. Forks seemed like a good break.

Back in late 2022 needing a break from another restore I refurbished 3 sets of forks, a set of KYB from a 92 era CR 250 and 2 sets of later 90s Showa twin cartridge. The KYBs were done to be placed on a 92 Honda CR250. I had put later model Showa’s on that bike and decided to do a more faithful restore on it. Somehow I forgot what that would ultimately mean. Basically you have to change everything on the front. Hub, caliper hanger, disc and a triple trees. Axel is a smaller diameter. Rocky Mountain ATV was out of those Tusk brand rims which I used on that. So I had to unlace the existing one. It took me a while to figure out that the spokes are different. Funny to me now but I had it laced up with the spokes from the later year hub. The spokes are longer with the newer hub. I couldn’t understand why they would not tighten up.

‘Twin chamber Showa’s with painted outers. Forks I restored and mounted on the 92.

The KYBs gave me little issue. I had a couple sets of those forks so I pieced together what looked the best. Gold anodizing fades in sunlight. Another new discovery for me. Surprisingly quickly if exposed to sunlight every day. I noticed some gold parts I had recoated looking way less gold. These bolts sat near a window in my shop. Unfortunately they actually sat in front of the window. Lesson learned.

I have to wonder is this the reason when buying new Honda parts you never see those colors anymore on parts that were originally colored like that. It could be due to this loss in color over time is why even bother with the process. Just a theory.

So my old KYBs look more aluminum colored vs the golden color original on them. I painted the axel holders after clean up. New seals/oil to stock specs.

The twin Showa’s that were on the bike. Cerakoted Gold upper sliders. Tried to get them recoated in gold locally and they came out looking brown. Forced to try the gold. Wouldn’t do it again.

As I said I did 2 sets of Showa’s. Massive headache in doing those since I had issues with getting the cartridges to work. If everything is good in a set they are super easy to service. Back then I didn’t have the Racetech multi tool to hold the top cap and remove the inner valving. That tool makes this job significantly easier. I have a set of smooth jaw channel locks which I normally use on caps.

I had to replace inner seals on the cartridges to get them to retract from oil pressure. These would pull in when charged with oil. Changing out those inner seals is very challenging. I had to make a tool to pull the inner part that captures the seals out. Replacing the seals once removed was very time consuming. I can’t imagine what a suspension shop charges to replace those.

The 3 sets sent off. WRs on the rleft.

I sent off some upper sliders down south to Alum-A-Coat. This outfit is very familiar with doing this process on sliders. I had sent 3 sets. He was able to recoat two sets. The Yamaha WR uppers which looked pretty good would not take the dye. Most importantly understand that damage to the outside from roost or other will not hide. To get a finish such as pictured you have to send some uppers that are in very good condition to begin with. He will ask you what color gold you want or other color. I sent images of Ohlins gold which is what I wanted.

This process wasn’t cheap. $300 a set. I would have done it again on at least that one set pictured. The other set had damage and so now I have a set that looks bright gold but has a diseased appearance due to roost/nicks/scrapes.

https://alum-a-coat-anodizing-up-to-32-feet-request-a-quote.business.si…

These below will go on the 95 that I will be making look like a 1996.

Had to pull off the axel holders on the other set. I now try and avoid this as much as possible. Very difficult to do without specialized tools. At least for me. Because a prior owner had used longer screws to retain the lower leg guards it pushed in the inner slider near the bottom trapping the springs in the lower portion. Be very careful on what screws you use to install those lower guards. There are 2 lengths to that unique looking fastener.

Polished up as much as I could on these. I readily admit this probably means nothing in function. I continue to see it as just what to expect from a restore done by me. Much like painting the lower axel holders. I just prefer those painted black mostly vs cleaned up bare aluminum.

So I had 3 more sets to do. 2 sets of 93-94 KYBs and I was fortunate to be gifted a set of 2007 Showa’s. The roller 92 will have a set of KYBs and the 93 the set of KYBs. The 94 will have my slightly less attractive set of Showa’s. The other 95 will get the 07 Showa’s. 
‘Pretty straightforward approach for me on these. Take them apart. Clean to remove all aluminum residue. Metal clean up. Glass bead blast lowers. Carefully clean off blast dust/particles. Paint lower axel holders.

Some of my methods to clean up forks.

Clean up the caps and lower adjusters.

‘Front of the lowers prior to metal clean up. Black hides damage like this easily. I still buffed all of that out prior to Cerakote. Seams from casting will also be removed just like almost all seams everywhere else.

Ready for Cerakote.

Wipe out the inner tubes/chambers. I was surprised at the amount of debris left even after a very care cleaning using simple green and hot water.

I use lacquer thinner to break down sticker adhesive followed by WD40 to remove any remaining residue. Next is an abrasive pad and more WD40 to further clean up the outer. Works great on material transfers that are on the outside finish.

Springs polished and insides of coils cleaned up with WD40 pushing a rag through followed by compressed air.

Polished goodness. Hard to tell on these. On the left side are the ones polished.

‘You can just see on the right fork right above the axel holder a rubber o-ring I put on. I do this on all my restores so an owner can see how much travel they are using. The little things…. Took the paint off the raised lettering. Just another little thing I like to do on any raised metal lettering. So calipers and master cylinders too. Only if the lettering is tall enough.

About 4 days to do these. Not bad and it’s nice to know I have all my forks done. All new seals and SS-7 fork oil to standard levels. Either the 95 or the 94 Showa’s will have Gold Valves. They were installed by a previous owner. Pathetic I can’t remember which set has them.

The blue tape on the sliders just tells me which KYBs are which. 

Thanks guys. The challenge of this consistently delivers. Started swingarms/linkage while dealing with shocks. 
 

Shocks, shocks, shocks…………… Needed to emphasize that word due to the volume of effort to try and go through 5 of them. Oh don’t worry….Swingarms deserve their own emphasis. Just one of either or those two components is straight forward and a relative breeze to complete. Dealing with so many at one time and trying to remain focused on detail work is where the meat hits the bbq. I just created that phrase. Rubber meets the road is so last century.

Anyways I just in all probability ruined another pair of pants and sweatshirts dealing with a shock. I’ll cover in more detail what I have learned in another installment. Just had to share a little of my misery.

3rd time I am trying to compose this response. Lost all my typing when my stupid finger touched the far right side and forwarded the page to a new one. I came back to nothing saved. If you are not aware it takes me awhile to compose these responses. I type hideously slow.

Shocks. My new opinion on shocks is I would rather do forks any day. Maybe not change internal seals on the cartridges but everything else all day every day.

Shocks are challenging only if you try and remove all air from the oil. At least for me they are.

Rocky Mountain has an abundance of excellent how-to videos. They really are very well produced. Compliments to them and their efforts to help those who like to do their own work. Their video on Showa rear shocks is pretty faithful to the Honda manual and adds some further direction.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecjmwSHjmSo

This image of the tools they suggest can be a little intimidating. I have found that the hand pump and tool to remove the adjuster if specialized are important. Most else you should already have if you are working on bikes. The bullet tool for sliding on the head seal isn’t a must have as tape and cellophane can be used to protect the head seals when sliding on to the dampener rod.

This next image shows the tools to work on twin chamber forks.

Considerably less tools in my opinion. Once releasing the nitrogen, spring removal, adjuster removal, oil removal you can then push in the reservoir cap to expose the retaining ring. You could use a deep wall socket to go over the Schrader valve to help push that cap up in. Pulling it out you could screw a metal cap on it and grasp that. That valve is aluminum and will mar easily. You need those threads to stay intact to charge it. Outside that no further specialized tools are critical. I have done a total of 9 shocks now from 86-96 and only recently added a Racetech 19mm KYB adjuster removal tool. Even then I only needed it since 2 of the adjuster were positioned in such a way that wasn’t easy to remove it. I did modify a pair of channel locks. Smoothed the jaws and narrowed those same jaws height wise.

This worked well for me but would only be a substitute for the Racetech 19mm tool in a pinch. 
 

What I started with. These images are so typical of what to expect with used bikes and shocks. Few pull off the shock only for cleaning.

They need to come apart. Remove the nitrogen and leave out the valve from the schrader. Pull spring off. Remove adjuster dump oil. Push in reservoir cap (use a socket as not to push on the schrader itself) to expose retaining ring. Remove that and maybe with some very low air pressure you could try and carefully add air to force the cap away. Just do not grab the schrader with anything unless the threads are protected. Maybe screw on a metal cap if pulling on that. After that it’s prying the bottom cap that covers the head seal and depressing that. It takes a little force to pop the head seal out. I clamp up the shock shaft in padded jaws and remove the valve stack/head seal. You will readily see if that retaining nut has ever been off. 
I use a piece of wire to lift all the shims and head seal in order onto and keep retained. Boom…Apart. Or as far as I am going.

I cut notch’s in the springs to note which spring went with what shock. I also used some numbered die’s to stamp each body and shaft.

​This worked great but I should have marked the retaining rings also in the same fashion. This creates havoc for me when rebuilding.

This picture only shows 4 shocks. I added one since I had the genius idea to restore a 92 roller since I had most of the parts for. It’s only when you get to the labor intensive items to restore when you confront the folly of this choice. Frames, wheels, swingarms, forks, calipers etc…. Haha. Pretty much stupid to add the 5th when 4 is tasking enough.

Clean up will consist of uniforming all the adjuster nuts, powder coat springs, remove molds lines and soften the shock body finish which is a resulting rough finish.

I had to do this since these rings are not cheap. No way could I rebuild these shocks using these in their present shape. If you haven’t restored these it’s time consuming to do so. Fortunately you use the same tools/pads to restore these as other components.

This image is before fixing damage. A little bit of time just getting all of these clean. I decided to grab all my extra rings and what not to send it all in for re-coat. Horrible idea when dealing with so many shocks and different years. Mark your parts if doing this.

Back from recoat.

There are 9 adjuster rings there. This reflects just how many used shocks I have here. Not knowing better I purchased used shocks from 97 onward. I learned that there are way too many changes that occurred going into the aluminum frame era that meant later shocks would be difficult to use. Honda had moved the reservoir more backward on the body. Changed lengths and changed the clevis. Adjusters from later models obviously will not work in earlier. 

Sprayed and dried in the ol oven. Shimmering Silver is the color in the H series for Cerakote.

Next installment is thoughts on putting back together and the finished product.

Rebuilding.
Did not shoot a bunch of images or should I say any images of the misery I endured rebuilding these shocks. Why greater misery this time? Heck I have done 5-6 other ones before these. The main difference was trying to minimize air and incorporate adding air 7.1 pounds to the bladder while topping off. The striking of the clevis a few times to force air out of the body was also added.

I can’t overstate the value of twisting the clevis from one side to the other while pushing the shaft up. Doing so many I became lazy and did not follow this critical procedure a few times. I was showered with oil. There is a fine line also between pushing it up with a twisting motion and speed. I don’t think you can go to slow on the compression stroke. That head seal moves easier than you can imagine. Plus it doesn’t hurt to cover the adjuster location with your hand or a rag to minimize risk of blowing oil out.

I really considered using a vacuum pump since I have one and setting the shock filled with oil inside a sealed container. But I thought about installing the adjuster. Have you looked at one of those? How in the world would you install that so it doesn’t introduce any air into the system.
The perfect methods  to insure no air is trapped requires like a 5 gallon bucket filled with your favorite shock oil. Fill the shock up with oil. Get as much air out of the system and than submerge that bad boy in your huge vat of oil. Keep it submerged and install your adjuster. Air free system.

I didn’t even bother with calculating the expense to do this.

Maybe I’m missing something about these vacuum systems. In all probability there is no way to keep the air out. It’s accepted that you won’t. It’s limiting it which is why there is a system to remove it. There just isn’t any way to limit air being trapped in at least the adjuster as you lift it from its cup of oil and go to screw it in. 
I wonder has anyone done a definitive test on air or different quantities of air being trapped within. How does Showa/KYB.WP do it.

Just watched some videos. So newer adjusters will have a bleed hole somewhere near the top of the treads but under the sealing o-ring. I should go and look to see if any of the extra adjusters have this feature. I personally do not remember it. Just looked at some of my images of disassembled shocks. The 95s certainly had no provision for this as the threaded portion is similar to a fork cap. So there is a cavity under it. So I’m going with there is no way to get all air out. At least with the methods I used. Adjuster sitting in a filled up cup with the oil topped off on the shock reservoir.

Follow that video offered by Rocky Mountain ATV. 

I have a nitrogen tank and gauges. So I use nitrogen to fill the bladder. A little research tells me since the air sits within a rubber bladder and is not mixed with oil you could use just compressed air. Nothing in that which could be affected by moisture trapped in compressed air. Since I’m invested in nitrogen I’ll keep using it but would now be totally comfortable just using a pump and airing it to 150 psi.

Not paying closer attention to keeping the rings orientated to their host shock was a big price to pay. Fortunately the 95 shock are forgiving as you can put them together and then screw on the adjusters. Not so much on the 92/93. I made an error in choosing my adjustment rings that sit on the spring itself. Being slightly a wider diameter it would not sit down into the coils. I ultimately had to pull one of the apart and change that adjuster and recharge with oil. Sprayed with oil a second time due to my lack of patience.

A bunch of back story in all that I know. I’m okay if few read any of it. 
 

I use Blue Line Decals for all my OEM stickers. I was careful about photographing where the original stickers were when I stripped these shocks down.
It was great to be done with those. 

Sent you a message on the magazines Rob. 

Swingarms and linkage. What a silly amount of work. I have been working on these for at least a month.

Typical approach I use for these…

I did have to remove some broken screws for the rub pad retainers.

1. Check out all bearings and remove roller bearings where I can. I’m not removing races if the bearings can be cleaned up. Remove those bearings and races where needed. Heat was the key here. Applying it directly to the bearing and outside area where it sits. This allowed me to bang them out with a appropriate socket.

2. Clean up every single roller that was saved. At the same time making an effort to salvage seals where I can.

3. WD40 swingarm bearings to help remove grease prior to pressure wash.

4. Pressure wash the linkages and swingarms in a worthless effort to clean further. Chain lube applied over years can be extremely difficult to remove with this method.

5. WD40 again to displace water in bearings and do further clean up with swingarm bearings.

6. Hit the swingarms with an angle grinder and a 80 grit flapper wheel. 
 

7. Use a carbide bit on a DA and remove seam lines from swingarms and linkage.

8. Go over all those surfaces with a DA and abrasive discs softening the flapper wheel use areas and grind marks.

9. Mark each swingarm and related linkage in order for which bike they go to.

10. Another lighter abrasive wheel to soften grinding marks with the DA. Linkage was done on bench grinder with same lighter abrasive wheels.

11. Off to glass bead cabinet to further uniform finish and prep for Cerakote.

12. Wash all the parts with hot water/degreaser. Only touch these parts with latex gloved hands as to not leave oil from fingers.

13. Heat dry to insure all water is removed. Blow out swingarm bearings.

14. Tape off bearings and use a dental pick and lacquer thinner to remove left over sediment. I picked debris out of the screw heads and any tiny areas.

15. Hang those parts and spray Cerakote H series which requires heat drying. But it’s the best Cerakote to use.

16. Place in my new super huge oven I just built and let dry at around 200 degrees. Boom… Finally done… Well almost. I still have the misery of repacking bearings and replacing bearings/seals.

I’m considering to cover how to make a Cerakote oven on the cheap. It could be used for powder coat possibly but a few extra steps would be needed for the increased heat. 

Thanks for your comments Onefive8. I’m sure I am not any trail breaker with my efforts. Unfortunately for the reader to my efforts not much more can be learned from 5 vs 1. Realistically I have done 1 to 1.5 a year. So this is nothing more than to push myself and see if this could be a viable business. Doing even 2 a year wouldn’t relate to much financial reward. 
If you want to save money and do this type of work yourself without major investment in specialized tools then my threads may be for you. I marvel at some of the guys posting build threads and their considerable abilities. Tig weld aluminum/machine their own parts/actually understand suspension valving stacks/porting and head squish and other areas boggles my mind and makes me feel like a newb to restoring.

As for background.

Realistically none as it relates to all the things I do with these restores. Those brave souls who have captured their own efforts on either video or still shots has been ample to reward my passion to do this work. Basically having a sense that you will overcome obstacles no matter what they and be successful is my key ingredient. Love for moto is first and foremost as a whole. 
 

Currently working on wheels. 
  5 sets of Excel rims and spoke kits was gonna hurt me to the tune of $2400.00. Not having a big enough oven for rims caused me to just consider just buy new.

This below is 160 rear spokes already done.

These two bench grinders and associated wheels make most of the work so much easier. Without these no way could I do as much as I do.

I resolved the oven issue and built myself a sweet super huge one for around $200 in material cost.
 

Since I could realistically heat cure now I figured just restore the spokes too. Got a quote for about $260 to dip in zinc. Sweet. 
Then I remembered that my last zinc coating added too much material and I had a nightmare issue with nipples not screwing onto spokes. They would go on but obviously the further they screwed on would cause them to lock onto the spokes.

So this meant I have to restore every stinking spoke basically by hand. I’m saving around $700 in doing this. 2 wheels wouldn’t be bad at all but still some work. The fact I’m still working on them tells the depth of this crazy effort. No way could I just do them all straight. Polishing each one is almost laughable in its time involvement. I have to remind myself but I’m saving like $700 or maybe a new owner will appreciate knowing the amount of work I did on this bike. Seriously no one in their right mind would do this. I had two other steps I had to perform just to get them ready for polish. 
5 bikes created a sense of just how much I would save. The last bike I told myself I wouldn’t do this again. Just buy new. But 5 and the rabbit hole of time involvement becomes deeper.

The other elements that still need to be done and suck energy and time like a black hole….

Airboxes/radiators since I try and straighten all the grill portion/gas tanks. Restore one and you know exactly what I’m facing/4 motor tear downs with repainting cases/all electrical clean up/hubs which means removing seam lines on ten of them and smoothing the casting finish/removing casting/mold lines from cylinders and smoothing and of course 10 rims which is a newly discovered misery based on those CR 500 ones I did.

Can’t wait to dig into these delicious hubs.

Finally was able to get the hubs done.

Removing the bearings can be challenging. At least on all these rear hubs.

What I found was that all of them barely spun. So of course I’m thinking they are all need to be replaced.The difficulty was in moving the inner sleeve to the side to expose the edge of the bearing. Basically I used a narrow screwdriver to displace a little aluminum to expose the edge. Then I was able to drive the bearing out. As soon as I moved the bearing slightly away from the sleeve it spun like it should.

I believe what is happening with these bearings is owners have been tightening down axles so tight it is squeezing the bearings against the sleeve. It shouldn’t matter since both bearings spin. But all of these bearings barely moved initially.

Check your own wheel bearings for spin next time you have the rear wheel off. If you are cranking down the axle nut you could be creating unessesary drag on the bearings.

So I measured from seat to seat in the hub.

Next measured the sleeve.

So I removed some material on all of the sleeves to lessen the pinch effect.

I cleaned up the displaced metal within the sleeves.

I also did the regular clean up of the insides. Rifle barrel cleaning rod with a bronze brush. Wrap the brush with a small cut out piece of a abrasive pad. Chuck that up in a drill and I use WD40 as a means to carry away the debris. Boom…. Super cleaned.

The next step was to remove seam lines. I used a DA and a carbide bit. Watch the use of this tool if inexperienced. It will cut aluminum with the quickness.

Next it’s abrasive pads, abrasive wheels and everything anything else I can use to smooth out the casting finish. Doing 2 of these for you should be easy. Like anything else it’s having the right hand tools and metal buffing wheels that make it easier.

Next for these is glass bead to prep for paint.

Front hubs seams were done differently to cut away seams as they were less noticeable vs the rears.

Bead blast cabinet next before spraying and off to the oven. I had to touch up a couple swingarms where I missed 2 areas slightly. Spraying parts like those is where the experience in painting really helps. Knowing how much paint to mix and set your gun at material shot with amount of fan conserves that expensive Cerakote.

Rims next…. 

As for the UFP plastic. I wish it was a little more darker with more red tinted. An additional issue is it creases white easily. I tried heating that up to get it out. This method did not work well for me. I need to research this a little more. 

Outside UFO what other options are there. The discounts currently are insane.

Finally finished calipers, hangers and rear master cylinders. Realistically the last area of removing seams/casting finish are the cylinders.

Taking a break from wheels turned into a couple weeks of those. The more I spend time on smoothing casting finish and removing seam lines I struggle with does it matter. It would take having another bike right next to one of these to see this stuff. Even then you might not catch it. That awareness really challenges one to keep on keeping on.

All of these were significant work. Just disassembling them and cleaning all the parts up was very time consuming. Lots of little parts with these systems. Not only clean up but I had to separate out individual parts for recoating by anodizing. Since you are charged by the load more so then individual part is why I did all the extra components I had. So at no real time was I thinking what it would take to actually do all the work.

Let’s revisit what I started with…

Next shot is clean up of the unit. I could have left them just like this.

All these components could easily pass for new. Hard to believe they are all the old parts. Take your time with metal prep before anodizing. The pay off is well worth it.

All of the above got me to this. So basically I used a DA with two different abrasive wheels. Followed by the bench grinder with a polishing wheel.

I seriously considered polishing a set of calipers and running those. Trying for the billet look.After all said and done they just looked like stock calipers polished.

I removed material off the tops of the calipers and of course cut away seam lines.

After that was all done I still had to take all these pieces and run them on the abrasive pads on the bench grinders. I have 3 different pads depending on amount of material to be moved.

Still not done. Had to bead blast all of these. Doing this aids in excellent adhesion of the Cerakote. After that they all have to be washed and dried.

Somehow I have nine front calipers and only need five of them. So much needless extra work.

From this I have to set them up to either be taped off or not and place wire hangers on them so I can spray. To spray all of these with Cerkote was about 3 ounces. I do reduce it just slightly. This helps with the flow and causes it to lay out really well.

 They should look equally as finished as these below if not better.

Thanks brother for your contributions to my thread along with the compliment. If I typed faster I would add much more in detail with these restores. The new photo upload utility is not user friendly at all. But it makes sense for the forum. I still haven’t figured out how to upload multiple shots.

I agree the with the lightness of the UFO plastic. I have been able to darken it with editing some of my images. But it really looks very pink. Maybe original was more pink than I remember. It’s been so long since I have seen original plastic.

I purchased all my graphics for these bikes after Thanksgiving. I’m going for an original appearance. I enjoy the custom look of yours and others but I want to maximize appeal for these bikes. This just means by going stock looking it is what it originally was. I hope to enjoy a broader audience and buyers by appearing stock.

It’s been tough not going for a full on custom look at times. I have saved quite a few images of Hondas that I enjoyed the appearance.

A much newer model but I just love how this was pulled off. This might look great using other colors but the same style of laying it out.

o

Talk about being creative. Huge tip of my hat to the owner of this bike and whoever did the work. This cat wanted to ride and wasn’t going to let any limitation get in his way.