Engine mount torque sequence on KTM/GasGas/Husq 450

The proper sequence for torquing the engine fasteners are:

1) swing arm axle nut (74 ft-lbs)

2) lower engine mount (44.5 ft-lbs)

3) forward engine mount (44.5 ft-lbs)

4) qty 2 top head stay torx bolts (18 ft-lbs)

5) lower head stay torx bolt (18 ft-lbs)

DynoDan22 always bringing the facts👍. I would like to add something that I have found helps. 
1. when all mounts are loosened, make sure all longer bolts along with swingarm bolt, move in/out easily before beginning torquing procedure. I have found on some of my KtM”s the rear of the engine drops down to put pressure on the swingarm bolt. If this occurs, I use a small block of wood to slightly raise the engine just enough for the bolt to slide in/out easily. 

If you really want to go to OCD levels, you can get steel shims from McMaster Carr in .10mm thickness and shim the engine mounts and swing arm interfaces so that you don’t add any residual stress when clamping up the fasteners. You wouldn’t believe the axial clearance between the engine cases/swing arm bearings/frame. When you tighten the swing arm nut, you can actually see the frame bend inward as everything clamps together. It amazes me how “sensitive” riders can tell a difference between after market engine mounts but they can’t feel the added stress when you deform the frame to clamp up the engine mounts themselves but I’m just one guy talking here. Lol

Dan is this the general mounting process for all bikes? 

Joe_Sprockets:  Yes. This is what I would recommend for all bikes. 

The GG has soft valving, so you may need a revalve if the bolts are backing out after your loctite and torque sequence. 

As soon as you reach the bottom of the travel or a square edge goes through the bike, there is a LOT of load that goes directly into the frame.