Posts
304
Joined
2/5/2015
Location
SE
Edited Date/Time
2/15/2016 12:58am
Planning to re anodize my showa forks on my RM250 K5.
I have read how to strip the anodizing off.
But then I want to polish them like new again. How to do it right ? 450s that frow rocks on them..
Can´t find any forum tips.
All the suspension companies don´t mention that they are polish forks, but do or ?
Hard anodize is the way to do it..
But how can RCH forks look so shiny flo yellow?
Hard anodize just makes "dull" colors
I would let the guys anodizing them do any fine polishing, as ANY imperfection the finish will show up more with ano on it. They will also probably be equipped with the right polishing tools/pad and compound. And on top of that, doing a cylinder is hard, since you'll be putting all the pressure on 1 point when using a wheel, so easy to mess up.
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
No I don´t have an ano shop.
But I talked to the ano shop that are suppose to do my forks, and they are not doing any polishing.
so they strip the ano off
ship to me
I polish (don´t know how yet ,)
send back to the ano shop
The Company are not in the motocross World so they are not used to polishs things.
Maybe I´ll start a ano shop because of all the problems here in Sweden. Have a tireshop to all kinds of vehicle now. Expand the buiness
send info to henrik@gummidepan.se
Typ II or type III ano ?
More colors to choose from
http://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/services/motorcyle-forks-hard-anodisin…
Hardanodizied and gold color.??
And polish before the new ano.
Anyone seen how professionals do their polishing? (FC, PRO CIRCUIT,RG3)
I have a cnc shop, close to 50 machines, mostly cnc, but i still have a handful of manual machines. I have no idea why it would be suggested not to put them in a lathe, ive done it several times with perfect results. I do inhouse anodizing, some for customers, some for my self. Heat treat, powdercoat, most anything i need or want i do inhouse.
If you have to polish them yourself, i would go with wet sanding and start around 800 grit since the machined surface is already nice. 800, then 1200, then 2000. Lightly sand do not use much pressure, you dont need to in order to achieve a nice finish. If you have a bench grinder or access to one, you can use a white cloth polishing wheel and green polishing compound to polish it out. You have to be very observant in doing this as you can easily get swirl marks polishing a round tube. Those swirls will show in the anodize finish.
Currently having these forks dlc coated and the lugs hard anodized black. Shock body is getting polished up and will be hard anodized brown to try and match factory Kashima colors with a dlc coated shaft as well. Pretty pumped.
its just normal anodizing.
Pit Row
look what I found
pure happiness to polish outer tubes. More shiny than RCH...
After
No problem with using a lathe to polish them, in fact I would say that its near impossible to do them another way. How would you get an even finish without a lathe. Took me an hour each leg, machined up a piece off aluminium with an OD that was a tight fit in the ID of the seal carrier and grabbed that with the 3 jaw chuck and put the cone centre up the other end to get it centre. I spun it up pretty quick started with 260 grit emery tape and then worked my way down the grades to 2000 grit wet and dry, then polished the F^@*k out of them with my preferred polish and a soft rag, wrapped them up in a soft towel and send them away. I didn't loose any diameter in the clamping areas.
Forks are done in Matte clear. Shock body, clevis, spring carrier, seal cap were done in hard ano black.
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