NUETECH TUBELESS TIRE CORE

PFitzG38
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Newport Beach, CA US
8/4/2014 3:38pm
newmann wrote:
BTW, I didn't bother drilling the rim.

Then how did you get the oversize rimlock/air valve through the rim?
On my CRF the valve stem hole is already oversize to allow for spin I would imagine. Otherwise I don't see myself drilling a perfectly good rim.
Mickolobe7
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1076
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9/5/2013
Location
Chicago, IL US
8/4/2014 9:20pm
newmann wrote:
BTW, I didn't bother drilling the rim.

Then how did you get the oversize rimlock/air valve through the rim?
PFitzG38 wrote:
On my CRF the valve stem hole is already oversize to allow for spin I would imagine. Otherwise I don't see myself drilling a perfectly good...
On my CRF the valve stem hole is already oversize to allow for spin I would imagine. Otherwise I don't see myself drilling a perfectly good rim.
Your Crf stock rims? I have brand new DiD Dirtstars stxs don't wan to drill them out. Will they fit?
Big E
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459
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12/8/2007
Location
Orange, CA US
8/4/2014 9:24pm
I have TUbliss and love them. Trick is to read the instructions to a tee and watch the video to install them. I have found the new Dunlop AT81 is a great tire for moto with TUbliss. They have a nice stiff carcass so you can run low PSI and get lots of traction.

Ill never go back to tubes!
mx_563
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2186
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CA US
8/4/2014 10:05pm
I just started running them on my CRF-R. I weighed them and I found them to be about a pound lighter. I run about 10 - 11psi and I notice the improvement (used to run about 12psi with tubes). I found installation to be more difficult than a tube but I didn't have any problems. After a few rides, both front and rear still seal fine. For me the main thing was front end traction, less unsprung weight, and preventing the tire from spinning on the rim (tried several rim locks but always had issues in the past). I don't worry about flats much when racing groomed MX tracks so that part of the equation wasn't a big deal to me. I might switch over on my CRF-X as well depending on how things go with the R over the next several rides.

The Shop

Mickolobe7
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Chicago, IL US
8/4/2014 10:35pm
Did you have to drill out DID rims or Excels?
The Rock
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8758
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3/21/2007
Location
HAIKU, HI US
8/5/2014 1:06am
On the drilling subject the ONLY drilling you have to to is increasing the size of the rim lock hole slightly. You stop running TUBLISS for whatever reason but the old rim lock back in the slightly larger whole NBD. (NO BIG DEAL)

For the record ALL rims have to have the rim lock hole size increased but again that doesn't mean you can't put your old rim lock back in if you stop running TUBLISS.
8/5/2014 6:10am
tmauto769 wrote:
I had them for a while, and when I weighed them they were real close to a regular tube, with the tube being a hair lighter...
I had them for a while, and when I weighed them they were real close to a regular tube, with the tube being a hair lighter. I don't think they were terrible, but I do think they are a waste of $200 though. I sold mine and got half my money back. I will just stick with regular tubes.
Your scale must be off, because it's not compatible with The Rock's opinion.
newmann
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4/1/2008
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US
8/5/2014 6:57am
I have a front Tubliss setup with a spare tube for sale if anyone wants it. Google up what they cost and make me an offer.
TX24
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2767
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5/7/2010
Location
San Antonio, TX US
8/5/2014 7:13am
I don't know. I was a terrible stock tire and tube changer. I find them much easier to change. Just stick the rim inside the tire using their shoe horn, then spoon on both sides.
It is important to use new tires, old tires have the dent from the rim lock and makes it harder to seal at that spot.
woodsryder
Posts
264
Joined
12/15/2012
Location
AS US
8/5/2014 5:29pm
As a designated A rider in hare scrambles, my opinion on the Nuetech is that they suck. Hated them from the start. Not only are they a pain to mount,(you have to use a mounting plate that is supplied when you buy it) they are just not worth the money considering how often I change tires depending on soil, conditions, etc. and can't exactly afford to mount a new tire every time, because like another poster said, the Nuetech will leak when you install a used tire. Just install a rim lock and a HD tube and be done with it.
The Rock
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HAIKU, HI US
8/5/2014 5:44pm
Sheriff245 wrote:
Your scale must be off, because it's not compatible with The Rock's opinion.
Or compatible with MXA's scales or LBs scales or another poster in this thread's scales
FGR01
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6066
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10/1/2006
Location
AZ US
Fantasy
8/5/2014 5:50pm
newmann wrote:
BTW, I didn't bother drilling the rim.

Then how did you get the oversize rimlock/air valve through the rim?
PFitzG38 wrote:
On my CRF the valve stem hole is already oversize to allow for spin I would imagine. Otherwise I don't see myself drilling a perfectly good...
On my CRF the valve stem hole is already oversize to allow for spin I would imagine. Otherwise I don't see myself drilling a perfectly good rim.
Mickolobe7 wrote:
Your Crf stock rims? I have brand new DiD Dirtstars stxs don't wan to drill them out. Will they fit?
As stated above, stock Honda rims have the enlarged valve stem hole to allow room for the valve stem to move around without getting ripped off. I am assuming PFitzG38 used this larger hole for the purpose that sometimes requires drilling on other rims.

I have DID DirtStar LT-X's on my bike. They also have the enlarged hole like stock Honda rims. Probably because stock Honda rims are also made by DID. Look at your DirtStars. Do they also have 1 hole that is noticeably larger than the other?
Suns_PSD
Posts
989
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
Austin, TX US
8/5/2014 6:24pm Edited Date/Time 8/5/2014 6:25pm
They are easy to mount and tire swaps become a breeze.
They are lighter and perform better.
They last forever.
The warranty service is great.
Generally you need to add some Tire Slime and they will never lose air and you will never get a flat again.
8/5/2014 6:33pm
The Rock wrote:
Or compatible with MXA's scales or LBs scales or another poster in this thread's scales
Or anybody paid by Nuetech to advertise their products' scale.
woodsryder
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AS US
8/5/2014 6:58pm
The Rock wrote:
Or compatible with MXA's scales or LBs scales or another poster in this thread's scales
Sheriff245 wrote:
Or anybody paid by Nuetech to advertise their products' scale.
Nailed it. How often do you see a magazine bad mouth a product? Rarely because the want that advertising money.
8/5/2014 7:43pm
tmauto769 wrote:
I had them for a while, and when I weighed them they were real close to a regular tube, with the tube being a hair lighter...
I had them for a while, and when I weighed them they were real close to a regular tube, with the tube being a hair lighter. I don't think they were terrible, but I do think they are a waste of $200 though. I sold mine and got half my money back. I will just stick with regular tubes.
Sheriff245 wrote:
Your scale must be off, because it's not compatible with The Rock's opinion.
Ha, maybe so, I could give a shit either way. But I do have the extra $100 back that he don't and that is fact not opinion Wink
One thing I forgot to mention about them, is the first day out with them, I did a 15min session when we got to the track came back in and put the bike on the stand. after about 10mins the front "tube" burst for some unknown reason. It wasn't just a slow leak but more like a boom instant flat. But to their credit NueTech sent me a new one for free.
Mickolobe7
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1076
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Location
Chicago, IL US
8/5/2014 7:46pm
I was just looking to see if the help with traction and worth the money?
Big E
Posts
459
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12/8/2007
Location
Orange, CA US
8/5/2014 9:56pm
mx_563 wrote:
I just started running them on my CRF-R. I weighed them and I found them to be about a pound lighter. I run about 10 -...
I just started running them on my CRF-R. I weighed them and I found them to be about a pound lighter. I run about 10 - 11psi and I notice the improvement (used to run about 12psi with tubes). I found installation to be more difficult than a tube but I didn't have any problems. After a few rides, both front and rear still seal fine. For me the main thing was front end traction, less unsprung weight, and preventing the tire from spinning on the rim (tried several rim locks but always had issues in the past). I don't worry about flats much when racing groomed MX tracks so that part of the equation wasn't a big deal to me. I might switch over on my CRF-X as well depending on how things go with the R over the next several rides.
When you go to a stiffer carcass tire, it will blow your mind on the traction you will get. You can run the rear as low as 4 lbs and get insane traction! Tires with 6 ply are the best like Maxxis and Sedona. they are cheaper and last longer with TUbliss.
Big E
Posts
459
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Location
Orange, CA US
8/5/2014 9:58pm
TX24 wrote:
I don't know. I was a terrible stock tire and tube changer. I find them much easier to change. Just stick the rim inside the tire...
I don't know. I was a terrible stock tire and tube changer. I find them much easier to change. Just stick the rim inside the tire using their shoe horn, then spoon on both sides.
It is important to use new tires, old tires have the dent from the rim lock and makes it harder to seal at that spot.
What he said^^^^^^^^^^
the grinch
Posts
19
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1/11/2013
Location
San Francisco, CA US
8/5/2014 10:07pm
They need to make these for motards.
mx_563
Posts
2186
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4/1/2008
Location
CA US
8/5/2014 10:21pm Edited Date/Time 8/5/2014 10:29pm
Mickolobe7 wrote:
Did you have to drill out DID rims or Excels?
I drilled out my stock rims exactly as per the Tubliss directions. With the stock Honda tube valve hole being quite large, this resulted in a funky looking setup. Functionally it seems fine though. My rims are a bit worn so I was willing to take a chance with Tubeliss. Figured if the experiment failed, I'd have a reason to buy new rims.

I took my time prepping the rims. Cleaned them up real good to eliminate any old residue, etc.

Just to clarify my first post, local races tend to be short and since I'm just a vet racing for fun, I'm not too worried about what might happen to my overall finish in the event of a flat. Any flat mitigation is icing on the cake. I just want good grip and good suspension performance (minimal unsprung weight). Makes riding more fun.
nytsmaC
Posts
5946
Joined
8/10/2009
Location
Frig Off CA
8/5/2014 11:56pm
Lightweight tubes and motion pro lite rim locks weigh less than 2.5lbs, both wheels combined. What does Nuetech claim their setup weighs, ~4lbs? Add in a Maxxis, Sedona or AT81 type stiff sidewall tire and you are adding at least 4-5lbs of unsprung rotating weight compared to a light set of Pirellis with tubes.
12/29/2014 2:21pm
Mickolobe7 wrote:
Did you have to drill out DID rims or Excels?
mx_563 wrote:
I drilled out my stock rims exactly as per the Tubliss directions. With the stock Honda tube valve hole being quite large, this resulted in a...
I drilled out my stock rims exactly as per the Tubliss directions. With the stock Honda tube valve hole being quite large, this resulted in a funky looking setup. Functionally it seems fine though. My rims are a bit worn so I was willing to take a chance with Tubeliss. Figured if the experiment failed, I'd have a reason to buy new rims.

I took my time prepping the rims. Cleaned them up real good to eliminate any old residue, etc.

Just to clarify my first post, local races tend to be short and since I'm just a vet racing for fun, I'm not too worried about what might happen to my overall finish in the event of a flat. Any flat mitigation is icing on the cake. I just want good grip and good suspension performance (minimal unsprung weight). Makes riding more fun.
did you drill a complete new hole or just enlarge one of them? Reason I ask is because Tubliss recommends drilling a new hole so the holes are 4 spokes apart. on my crf250r the stock holes are almost on complete opposite sides of the rim and i wanted to see if I could get away with using the stock holes and not drilling a new one 4 spokes away.
BB67
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721
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12/29/2014
Location
W/central, FL US
12/29/2014 3:02pm
the problem is they are high pressure(in the inner liner) and low volume. the tiniest little leak =fail.
mx_563
Posts
2186
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
CA US
12/30/2014 12:05am
did you drill a complete new hole or just enlarge one of them? Reason I ask is because Tubliss recommends drilling a new hole so the...
did you drill a complete new hole or just enlarge one of them? Reason I ask is because Tubliss recommends drilling a new hole so the holes are 4 spokes apart. on my crf250r the stock holes are almost on complete opposite sides of the rim and i wanted to see if I could get away with using the stock holes and not drilling a new one 4 spokes away.
I driiled a new hole 4 spokes away as per the instructions.

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