My RM-Z 200 SX build

fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 12/31/2013 9:46am
12/31/2013 9:46am

The cdi was hitting the clutch side for tube.. so I spaced it over about 3/8 of and inch and mounted it vertical and it worked like a snap
gpnewhouse 12/31/2013 9:48am
12/31/2013 9:48am
fosheezie wrote:
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2013/12/31/40487/s1200_20131222_200215.jpg[/img]
Now THAT is a much better idea than the one KTM had putting at the side. Broke 2 of those on my old 200 before I decided to move it.
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 12/31/2013 9:59am
12/31/2013 9:59am
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real good shape) but it looked horrible.. my buddy hubert showed me a trick that worked like a snap.. first off I soda blasted it to get the worst of it off.. then I went to auto zone and picked up some "mag wheel cleaner" .. the stuff is basically acid so be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses.. spray it on .. let it sit for about 30-45 seconds.. then hit it with an sos pad (the kind with the soap in it) and then rinse it off.. after it dries hit it with a red scotchbrite and it will look like new.. but MAKE SURE of a couple things.. don't get this stuff on steel or it will remove any paint or coating.. don't let it sit too long before rinsing it off.. and when you scotchbrite the frame make sure you go with the grain of the aluminum and not against it.. it makes a huge difference.. you don't want your frame to look like its been worked on, you want it to look factory.. you could actually skip the soda blasting but I did it anyways
Tracktor
Profile picture for user Tracktor
Posts
2343
Joined
8/17/2006
Location
The RTF/Amboy, WA US
Tracktor 12/31/2013 10:08am
12/31/2013 10:08am
fosheezie wrote:
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real...
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real good shape) but it looked horrible.. my buddy hubert showed me a trick that worked like a snap.. first off I soda blasted it to get the worst of it off.. then I went to auto zone and picked up some "mag wheel cleaner" .. the stuff is basically acid so be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses.. spray it on .. let it sit for about 30-45 seconds.. then hit it with an sos pad (the kind with the soap in it) and then rinse it off.. after it dries hit it with a red scotchbrite and it will look like new.. but MAKE SURE of a couple things.. don't get this stuff on steel or it will remove any paint or coating.. don't let it sit too long before rinsing it off.. and when you scotchbrite the frame make sure you go with the grain of the aluminum and not against it.. it makes a huge difference.. you don't want your frame to look like its been worked on, you want it to look factory.. you could actually skip the soda blasting but I did it anyways
Cool build!

Napa Aluminum Brightener works great also. pretty much the same stuff.

Also, Harbor Freight carries bulk soda in different grades. Cheaper and more convenient than buying it in a grocery store..............

The Shop

See All »
pitbike502
Profile picture for user pitbike502
Posts
4509
Joined
12/26/2007
Location
Syracuse, NY US
pitbike502 12/31/2013 10:50am
12/31/2013 10:50am
fosheezie wrote:
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real...
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real good shape) but it looked horrible.. my buddy hubert showed me a trick that worked like a snap.. first off I soda blasted it to get the worst of it off.. then I went to auto zone and picked up some "mag wheel cleaner" .. the stuff is basically acid so be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses.. spray it on .. let it sit for about 30-45 seconds.. then hit it with an sos pad (the kind with the soap in it) and then rinse it off.. after it dries hit it with a red scotchbrite and it will look like new.. but MAKE SURE of a couple things.. don't get this stuff on steel or it will remove any paint or coating.. don't let it sit too long before rinsing it off.. and when you scotchbrite the frame make sure you go with the grain of the aluminum and not against it.. it makes a huge difference.. you don't want your frame to look like its been worked on, you want it to look factory.. you could actually skip the soda blasting but I did it anyways
that does work great! the Dynamic factory guys do it the HRT bikes and they looked fantastic
JBernard_401
Profile picture for user JBernard_401
Posts
1317
Joined
10/29/2013
Location
Boulder, CO US
JBernard_401 12/31/2013 12:54pm
12/31/2013 12:54pm
fosheezie wrote:
where do you take a frame to get it heat treated... people that specialize in heat treating motorcycles.. that will accept a frame that has been...
where do you take a frame to get it heat treated... people that specialize in heat treating motorcycles.. that will accept a frame that has been modified by some random (yet stunningly handsome) guy that just walks in off the street.. like I said.. I looked into it, I never cut corners and never will.. and this is a bike I will be riding, so I want it to be as safe as possible.. so im all open to heat treat options...

in all honestly, I am just a normal guy that wants to build a dirt bike.. if I owned a Honda factory that had its own heat treatment oven and quench tank.. believe me, the bike I was building in my garage would be heat treated.. hell everything would be heat treated!! mt f-ing aluminum lunchbox would be to t6 standards and would probably be loaned out to NASA on a weekl;y basis.. but unfortunately, this is not a reality just yet.. so I will keep my fingers crossed on the whole Honda factory thing.. and until then I will keep on posting pictures for all these other fellas and ladies on this awesome website..

if it will not be rideable because 2 frame spars were moved vertically, reinforced to nearly twice the thickness, and rewelded by a certified professional welder....well then I just wasted 2 weeks of my life that I could have spent telling chuck Norris jokes,drinking ice cold pabst blue ribbon, and basically just walking around being awesome as usual
i've found the company that does Christini's heat treating for their frames.
can be done for around 300$ and they know how to mount and support the frame so no warpage occurs. they have special jigs for bike frames.

Christini does heavy frame mods to the main spar and headtube

they also have a govt contract, so i would guess that they have engineers on hand that think its necessary to get this process done for the amount of $ they have invested in their product.
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 12/31/2013 4:13pm
12/31/2013 4:13pm
Thanks man, shoot me over the info when you get a chance
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 12/31/2013 4:15pm
12/31/2013 4:15pm Edited Date/Time 1/3/2014 8:53pm
fosheezie wrote:
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real...
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real good shape) but it looked horrible.. my buddy hubert showed me a trick that worked like a snap.. first off I soda blasted it to get the worst of it off.. then I went to auto zone and picked up some "mag wheel cleaner" .. the stuff is basically acid so be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses.. spray it on .. let it sit for about 30-45 seconds.. then hit it with an sos pad (the kind with the soap in it) and then rinse it off.. after it dries hit it with a red scotchbrite and it will look like new.. but MAKE SURE of a couple things.. don't get this stuff on steel or it will remove any paint or coating.. don't let it sit too long before rinsing it off.. and when you scotchbrite the frame make sure you go with the grain of the aluminum and not against it.. it makes a huge difference.. you don't want your frame to look like its been worked on, you want it to look factory.. you could actually skip the soda blasting but I did it anyways
Tracktor wrote:
Cool build! Napa Aluminum Brightener works great also. pretty much the same stuff. Also, Harbor Freight carries bulk soda in different grades. Cheaper and more convenient...
Cool build!

Napa Aluminum Brightener works great also. pretty much the same stuff.

Also, Harbor Freight carries bulk soda in different grades. Cheaper and more convenient than buying it in a grocery store..............
Good call on the bulk soda.. I looked into their pressurized soda setups but have never talked to anybody that has ever used them might need to give em a go!
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 12/31/2013 4:52pm
12/31/2013 4:52pm


My buddy Hubert hooked me up with some new parts for the zook so I whipped him up a tire changing stand on my lunch break at maxi muffler today.. and here's a pic with the top plate and hold down stud.. now we can quit using his garbage can for swapping tires.. like barbarians :-)
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 12/31/2013 4:56pm
12/31/2013 4:56pm


Oh and here's the final mount for the cdi after i clocked it 90 degrees, clears everything and should stay safe tucked behind that number plate
AHRMA361 12/31/2013 6:19pm
12/31/2013 6:19pm
fosheezie wrote:
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2013/12/31/40510/s1200_20131231_175714.jpg[/img] Oh and here's the final mount for the cdi after i clocked it 90 degrees, clears everything and should stay safe tucked behind that number...


Oh and here's the final mount for the cdi after i clocked it 90 degrees, clears everything and should stay safe tucked behind that number plate
Love the work. Love the ingenuity. Love the humor.

Great thread.

Keep being awesome. lol
MaxPower
Profile picture for user MaxPower
Posts
2695
Joined
8/15/2006
Location
NJ US
MaxPower 1/1/2014 5:17am
1/1/2014 5:17am
fosheezie wrote:
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real...
The frame was filthy when I originally.. stained all over from the kid apparently never washing it (which in turn actually kept the bearings in real good shape) but it looked horrible.. my buddy hubert showed me a trick that worked like a snap.. first off I soda blasted it to get the worst of it off.. then I went to auto zone and picked up some "mag wheel cleaner" .. the stuff is basically acid so be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses.. spray it on .. let it sit for about 30-45 seconds.. then hit it with an sos pad (the kind with the soap in it) and then rinse it off.. after it dries hit it with a red scotchbrite and it will look like new.. but MAKE SURE of a couple things.. don't get this stuff on steel or it will remove any paint or coating.. don't let it sit too long before rinsing it off.. and when you scotchbrite the frame make sure you go with the grain of the aluminum and not against it.. it makes a huge difference.. you don't want your frame to look like its been worked on, you want it to look factory.. you could actually skip the soda blasting but I did it anyways
Tracktor wrote:
Cool build! Napa Aluminum Brightener works great also. pretty much the same stuff. Also, Harbor Freight carries bulk soda in different grades. Cheaper and more convenient...
Cool build!

Napa Aluminum Brightener works great also. pretty much the same stuff.

Also, Harbor Freight carries bulk soda in different grades. Cheaper and more convenient than buying it in a grocery store..............
fosheezie wrote:
Good call on the bulk soda.. I looked into their pressurized soda setups but have never talked to anybody that has ever used them might need...
Good call on the bulk soda.. I looked into their pressurized soda setups but have never talked to anybody that has ever used them might need to give em a go!
I have a soda blaster from Harbor Freight.
I have nothing to compare it to. Looking at the setup you built, I would think it has to be a little more convenient to use. But thing the results would be the same. in the end you really have to want to clean the part youre blasting to use it . As yours, there is baking soda all over the place, you need a decent compressor, and filling the tank is a pain in the butt. Maybe I'm missing something and i can't see now otherwise, but the only way I can see to fill the blue tank is to pour the baking soda through a funnel like an hour glass. I hope someone can show me I'm doing it wrong, I can't see it being the correct way to fill the tank and why they would not design a simple larger opening to pour baking soda through.
But I find results more than worth the effort. Never before was I able to clean the outside body of old mikuni so easily . Harbor Frieght near me has always been pretty good about returns. If you got one and found the one you built to be as good you could always bring it back. I think the bigger difference would be the large bag of baking soda they sell. You must have gone through ten boxes of grocery store baking soda to clean your frame. They also sell it in a fine and more aggressive grade.
I am impressed with your project.
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 5:46pm
1/1/2014 5:46pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2014 5:47pm


Also wanted to show u guys how I changed the radiators to make this work.. at first I thought the throttle side lower would be fine but the rear outlet to the water pump made a weird s turn and was too close to the pipe
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 5:48pm
1/1/2014 5:48pm


Just not working
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 5:52pm
1/1/2014 5:52pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2014 5:54pm
I used part of the "t" to make an outlet to go down where I needed it to.. and the hose sizea are different.. the one going to the water pump is a little larger than the rest
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 5:56pm
1/1/2014 5:56pm






fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 5:59pm
1/1/2014 5:59pm


Last minute late night swing to Marty Gundt's welding shop.. this guy is awesome and is always eager to help me out.. even when its after hours :-)
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 6:05pm
1/1/2014 6:05pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2014 6:05pm


There she is, clearing everything like it should.. it didn't take take much work.. and it looks way better than some big funky s-bend hose junkin up my engine bay .. I am also a huge fan of these gates clamps.. they do away with hose clamps and tighyen with heat.. we use them all the time on some of our old car projects and have yet to see one leak.. plus they look awesome

Pit Row

See All »
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 6:08pm
1/1/2014 6:08pm
I see a lot of you guys run custom graphics.. and pointers on who is good to go to? I was going to just run factory graphics and make it lool stock.. but I would like to have something different at the same time. . Let me know what you think because I am at a standstill with decals
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 6:13pm
1/1/2014 6:13pm


And here's a little sneak peek mini preview.. I'm pretty excited not gonna lie.. I have already put about an hour of " on the stand making dirt bike noises" ride time on it.. and it feels really good!..

Braaaaarrrp!
fire_guy634
Profile picture for user fire_guy634
Posts
1
Joined
12/3/2013
Location
Simi Valley, CA US
fire_guy634 1/1/2014 8:07pm
1/1/2014 8:07pm
fosheezie wrote:
I see a lot of you guys run custom graphics.. and pointers on who is good to go to? I was going to just run factory...
I see a lot of you guys run custom graphics.. and pointers on who is good to go to? I was going to just run factory graphics and make it lool stock.. but I would like to have something different at the same time. . Let me know what you think because I am at a standstill with decals
Check out AVIK Graphics at rideavik.com. They make very great looking, graphics and will actually work with you so you'll get what you want, not just plain old "your logo here" graphics that most places will make. Avik really does good stuff man, all our bikes look great!

www.rideavik.com

P.S. Keep up the good work man, all this hard work will be worth it!
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 8:22pm
1/1/2014 8:22pm
thanks for the link buddy! but holy smokes @ the $400 dollar price tag.. guess I have been out of the game for a while when it comes to buying graphics lol.. I thought about getting my hot rod shops logo on it but im pretty sure I will have to make one up on Microsoft paint or something so I can email it.. its more work trying to figure out shroud decals than it is to build a bike lol.. but thanks for the quick response.. more pics coming soon
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 8:23pm
1/1/2014 8:23pm
shop looks like such a damn mess in pictures
STSMotorsports 1/1/2014 8:31pm
1/1/2014 8:31pm
Hey bud, email me at Steve@STS-Motorsports.com and we will help you with a fresh set of graphics. We can do the full bike plus cool stuff like the rad louvers and get you setup with a sick seat cover. We can make your buddy's hot rod shop logo too.
website is www.STS-Motorsports.com
1
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 8:44pm
1/1/2014 8:44pm
Sweet.. email sent
Wes782
Profile picture for user Wes782
Posts
47
Joined
11/23/2011
Location
UT US
Wes782 1/1/2014 9:12pm
1/1/2014 9:12pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2014 9:13pm
www.Blackdiamondmx.com

Ryan Dungey's little Brother and a local pro in MN own it.

Best around
markit
Profile picture for user markit
Posts
2641
Joined
1/10/2013
Location
Bogalusa, LA US
markit 1/1/2014 9:21pm
1/1/2014 9:21pm
Great build man,can you make my 03 200sx look like that.
fosheezie
Profile picture for user fosheezie
Posts
303
Joined
12/25/2013
Location
Lascassas, TN US
fosheezie 1/1/2014 9:37pm
1/1/2014 9:37pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2014 9:40pm
Sure thing man! Send me the motor.. I can do the rest lol.. if anything I have learned a lot from this build so the next one will be a breeze! Thank u guys for the responses on graphics.. at this rate I know I will figure something out
smezmx
Profile picture for user smezmx
Posts
2614
Joined
5/25/2010
Location
Kent,medway.... GB
smezmx 1/2/2014 5:55am
1/2/2014 5:55am
fosheezie wrote:
I see a lot of you guys run custom graphics.. and pointers on who is good to go to? I was going to just run factory...
I see a lot of you guys run custom graphics.. and pointers on who is good to go to? I was going to just run factory graphics and make it lool stock.. but I would like to have something different at the same time. . Let me know what you think because I am at a standstill with decals
mgx unlimited is doing a deal on full semi custom graphic kit's at the moment.$129.95 for the full kit.check out the website for the different design's they offer.
http://www.mgxunlimited.com/index.php

heres a yz with an mgx graphic kit




Post a reply to: My RM-Z 200 SX build