Posts
10
Joined
1/19/2012
Location
Idaho Falls, ID, USA
Edited Date/Time
3/16/2012 4:34pm
Selling a couple of the bikes I've redone to wire my shop. Everything has been gone through and never been ridden since the over hauls.
Kx link
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=19547053&cat=236
CR link
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=19546919&cat=236
Kx link
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=19547053&cat=236
CR link
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=19546919&cat=236
Just curious since I've been hearing some of these timers and engineers comment on even the slightest change completely changing the way the frame acts or reacts
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Most powdercoat ovens bake around 350 - 450 F for no more than 45 minutes and then they are allowed to gradually cool. This duration of heat exposure probably wouldn't even completely heat the AL frame all the way through. The frame probably wouldn't be any hotter than 300 F.
I took a metallurgy class in college and I definately know it takes more heat than that to start changing AL properties.
It's kind of an old wive's tale. Yes, one could easily change the metallurgy of the frame with heat, but the heat from the powdercoating isn't it. One would probably need 600-1000 F for several hours followed by a multi-hour cool down period to soften the AL. Or a rapid quench from this temp range would make the AL very hard, but brittle. I believe 99% of guys who tell you baking a frame for powdercoat do not have much background in metallurgy
Post a reply to: Selling 06 KX 250 and 06 CR 250 that I redone