It's beating me down

CR500Rider
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CR500Rider 1/31/2012 9:13am
1/31/2012 9:13am
I tried rust remover, penetrating oil, heat, an air hammer and eventually beating it like it owes me money. My 12 ton shop press won't move it. I think this engine wants to end up in a different frame. All this because a son of a bitch was too cheap to spend $10 on a tub of grease.
Stooperbike
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Stooperbike 1/31/2012 11:34am
1/31/2012 11:34am
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would get the stupid swingarm axle out. It was left outside for a few years before I got it.
Now do this is a last resort, it worked out well in the end but it was nerve racking! I removed the shock tire and linkage. I had to then use a 4" cut off wheel on a hand held grinder and basically cut axle between the swingarm and the motor on both sides. I was super super carefull not to damage the swing-arm or motor, and the whole time doing this i kept thinking "WTF am I doing!!!" I removed the motor with the remaining axle still inside. I put the bike on the side and then I was able to beat out the smaller pieces of axle. I put the motor in my press and was able to get that piece of axle out. It worked out well but I was pretty nervous the whole time doing it.
Good Luck!!
DPR250R
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DPR250R 1/31/2012 4:09pm
1/31/2012 4:09pm
Stooperbike wrote:
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would...
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would get the stupid swingarm axle out. It was left outside for a few years before I got it.
Now do this is a last resort, it worked out well in the end but it was nerve racking! I removed the shock tire and linkage. I had to then use a 4" cut off wheel on a hand held grinder and basically cut axle between the swingarm and the motor on both sides. I was super super carefull not to damage the swing-arm or motor, and the whole time doing this i kept thinking "WTF am I doing!!!" I removed the motor with the remaining axle still inside. I put the bike on the side and then I was able to beat out the smaller pieces of axle. I put the motor in my press and was able to get that piece of axle out. It worked out well but I was pretty nervous the whole time doing it.
Good Luck!!
+1

Had to do the same thing on a 97 RM250.
TJ 755
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TJ 755 1/31/2012 8:37pm
1/31/2012 8:37pm
being hollow is a bonus. Heat the crap out of the swingarm/ bushings, then cool the bolt with some pb or wd, beat the psii out of it. If that doesnt work break out the hot wrench. Man shall prevail.

The Shop

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Graphite
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Graphite 2/5/2012 8:17pm
2/5/2012 8:17pm
TJ 755 wrote:
being hollow is a bonus. Heat the crap out of the swingarm/ bushings, then cool the bolt with some pb or wd, beat the psii out...
being hollow is a bonus. Heat the crap out of the swingarm/ bushings, then cool the bolt with some pb or wd, beat the psii out of it. If that doesnt work break out the hot wrench. Man shall prevail.
I'm not a pro at this, never had this issue.

But, heating something red hot, then spraying WD40 on it is not something I'd recommend to anyone.
dcg141
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dcg141 2/6/2012 5:57pm
2/6/2012 5:57pm
Stooperbike wrote:
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would...
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would get the stupid swingarm axle out. It was left outside for a few years before I got it.
Now do this is a last resort, it worked out well in the end but it was nerve racking! I removed the shock tire and linkage. I had to then use a 4" cut off wheel on a hand held grinder and basically cut axle between the swingarm and the motor on both sides. I was super super carefull not to damage the swing-arm or motor, and the whole time doing this i kept thinking "WTF am I doing!!!" I removed the motor with the remaining axle still inside. I put the bike on the side and then I was able to beat out the smaller pieces of axle. I put the motor in my press and was able to get that piece of axle out. It worked out well but I was pretty nervous the whole time doing it.
Good Luck!!
I was going to suggest the same thing with a reciprocating saw.
dcg141
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dcg141 2/6/2012 6:00pm
2/6/2012 6:00pm
TJ 755 wrote:
being hollow is a bonus. Heat the crap out of the swingarm/ bushings, then cool the bolt with some pb or wd, beat the psii out...
being hollow is a bonus. Heat the crap out of the swingarm/ bushings, then cool the bolt with some pb or wd, beat the psii out of it. If that doesnt work break out the hot wrench. Man shall prevail.
Graphite wrote:
I'm not a pro at this, never had this issue. But, heating something red hot, then spraying WD40 on it is not something I'd recommend to...
I'm not a pro at this, never had this issue.

But, heating something red hot, then spraying WD40 on it is not something I'd recommend to anyone.
WD 40 and Kerosene heaters don't mix either. I swear I almost burned my shop to the ground with a WD40 incident.
mark_swart
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mark_swart 2/7/2012 10:20am
2/7/2012 10:20am
Had the same prob with my 96 CR restore. Tried heat and penetrants. I ended up pounding the axle out with a big hammer and a punch. I think my hands are still numb and I ruined the punch but eventually it came out. In my case I was replacing the frame anyway. Good luck with that one!
Stooperbike
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Stooperbike 2/8/2012 9:28am
2/8/2012 9:28am
Stooperbike wrote:
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would...
Well I will throw out my 2cents worth, I had the same issue with my 2003 125, no amount of lube, oil, magic, or beating would get the stupid swingarm axle out. It was left outside for a few years before I got it.
Now do this is a last resort, it worked out well in the end but it was nerve racking! I removed the shock tire and linkage. I had to then use a 4" cut off wheel on a hand held grinder and basically cut axle between the swingarm and the motor on both sides. I was super super carefull not to damage the swing-arm or motor, and the whole time doing this i kept thinking "WTF am I doing!!!" I removed the motor with the remaining axle still inside. I put the bike on the side and then I was able to beat out the smaller pieces of axle. I put the motor in my press and was able to get that piece of axle out. It worked out well but I was pretty nervous the whole time doing it.
Good Luck!!
dcg141 wrote:
I was going to suggest the same thing with a reciprocating saw.
I think that's a much better idea, If I ever have to do this again that's what I will use.
TerryK
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TerryK 2/8/2012 1:21pm
2/8/2012 1:21pm
Did the OP ever get it out??
CR500Rider
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CR500Rider 2/8/2012 1:27pm
2/8/2012 1:27pm
TerryK wrote:
Did the OP ever get it out??
Terry, I did not. After the press didn't work I got busy and am kind of at a loss on it.
TerryK
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TerryK 2/8/2012 2:00pm
2/8/2012 2:00pm
TerryK wrote:
Did the OP ever get it out??
CR500Rider wrote:
Terry, I did not. After the press didn't work I got busy and am kind of at a loss on it.
Bummer. I'd say cut it in three and try again. At least you'll only be working one tight spot at a time.
seanmx57
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seanmx57 2/8/2012 8:13pm
2/8/2012 8:13pm
I've had the same problem. 2 easy ways to solve this one.

1. Take the bike to a shop that changes springs in trucks. They have MAN sized air hammers that WILL push that bolt out.

I did it this way.

2. Tap threads into the SA bolt from the shifter side as deep as the tap will go. 1/2 course is what I used. Buy some GOOD threaded rod, grade 8 stuff. I have 4.5 extra feet, I bought a 6 foot length. Take a piece of pipe that is larger than the hole in the frame and cut it off square with a chop saw on both ends. Make it the length of the SA bolt approximately. Thread the rod into the SA bolt as far as it will go hand tight. Use large washers on the end of the pipe and a grade 8 nut to pull it out. Tighten it so the point where you are worried about stripping something. Get a brass dowel about 1" in diameter 6" long (your punch) to get things moving. Get a BFH. Hit that brass like you mean it. SA moves about 1 or 2mm. Tighten nut again. Hit brass again. Repeat until you are wishing you would have thought of this yourself.

If it's not moving when you whack the brass you don't have the nut on the rod tight enough.

CR500riders.com is where I got turned on to it. Plenty of good info there on your smoker. Have fun with the AF.

Should be enough incentive to grease your new steed regularly..........
CR500Rider
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CR500Rider 2/8/2012 9:22pm
2/8/2012 9:22pm
Seanmx57, thanks for the info. I'm a member at the 2 CR500 sites but never saw this although I'm a little confused on threading on the shifter side. If I do that I'll be hitting from the brake side of the SA bolt which has a head on it. It ain't moving in that direction so I'm guessing you meant the other way around. I'll give it a go. I've had incentive to grease my bikes since the 70's unlike the jackass that owned this bike before me.
seanmx57
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seanmx57 2/9/2012 5:23am
2/9/2012 5:23am
Tap threads from the head side, not the nut side, you got it. I was thinking the head is on the left side.
mxtech1
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mxtech1 2/9/2012 5:41am
2/9/2012 5:41am
seanmx57 wrote:
I've had the same problem. 2 easy ways to solve this one. 1. Take the bike to a shop that changes springs in trucks. They have...
I've had the same problem. 2 easy ways to solve this one.

1. Take the bike to a shop that changes springs in trucks. They have MAN sized air hammers that WILL push that bolt out.

I did it this way.

2. Tap threads into the SA bolt from the shifter side as deep as the tap will go. 1/2 course is what I used. Buy some GOOD threaded rod, grade 8 stuff. I have 4.5 extra feet, I bought a 6 foot length. Take a piece of pipe that is larger than the hole in the frame and cut it off square with a chop saw on both ends. Make it the length of the SA bolt approximately. Thread the rod into the SA bolt as far as it will go hand tight. Use large washers on the end of the pipe and a grade 8 nut to pull it out. Tighten it so the point where you are worried about stripping something. Get a brass dowel about 1" in diameter 6" long (your punch) to get things moving. Get a BFH. Hit that brass like you mean it. SA moves about 1 or 2mm. Tighten nut again. Hit brass again. Repeat until you are wishing you would have thought of this yourself.

If it's not moving when you whack the brass you don't have the nut on the rod tight enough.

CR500riders.com is where I got turned on to it. Plenty of good info there on your smoker. Have fun with the AF.

Should be enough incentive to grease your new steed regularly..........
I've used that method a couple of times in extreme cases...and yes it does work good when all else fails.

The idea behind it is the pressure the nut applies through the threaded rod pulls the SA bolt. You are effectively increasing your force because that side is pulling and your hammer swing is pushing.
scooter5002
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scooter5002 2/13/2012 4:28pm
2/13/2012 4:28pm
I'm a little late to this party (been out west working since early January, no computer), but have you solved this? Here's my thoughts. If you can make it happen drill the swingarm dead center between the bearing races and same for the engine cases. Just a hole big enough to get some lube down into. I use diesel as a rust dissolver and it WORKS. Since I own my own rig, I always have access to it. It will break ANYTHING loose. Fill all the cavities and let it sit for a day. Then your battle will be half over. Be 10 times easier to get out. You can either install grease nipples on the swingarm after or JB Weld/ epoxy all the holes after. Who's going to know? Nice sano fix and no heartache A zipcut wheel on a grinder would work as well, but your aim better be good. Good luck man.
scooter5002
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scooter5002 2/13/2012 4:35pm
2/13/2012 4:35pm
Oh, and if you use Seans method, it might not hurt to get another nut to fit the swingarm pivot. Use it to beat on, make sure it's flush with pivot head. Even better would be a deep thread homemade nut, like a threaded chunk of round stock. Thread it down 'til it bottoms, then back it out a turn. When you whack it, it will slide down as far the custom nut face. Back it out 1 more turn, and whack it again. Likely only get 3 turns and it's unuseable, but 3 turns should be enough and the battles close to won.

Pit Row

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seanmx57
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seanmx57 2/13/2012 4:46pm
2/13/2012 4:46pm
The last one I did that was a real pita I had to pull/push it out the whole way. It got easier in the last 2". Still had the factory grease, er rust. it was a 95.

I didn't know that about diesel, good tip, cheaper than PB blaster for sure and smells better.

Who give a clam about saving the old SA bolt. Once you get it behind the frame have at it. I just took another bolt and gave her some luv.

Kuddos goto CR500MAN at cr500riders for getting me squared away on that deal.

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